We go to the bathhouse not only to take a steam bath, but also to wash. After the steam room, it's good to douse yourself ice water, but I want to wash under a hot one. Therefore, it is important to make a hot shower in the bath. In the article, we will consider various ways to do it yourself.

The easiest way to make a hot shower in a bath is to install a pouring device (bucket) and supply water to it. Such a bucket shower for a bath can be bought in a specialized store. There are models in which water is poured from an ordinary bucket, and there are those to which water is supplied from a water supply system. Turning on and off the water is controlled by a float (a device similar to that in the drain tanks).

Bath shower bucket

How to heat water for a shower in a bath

Water heating by electric water heaters

You can heat water for a shower either with the help of electric heaters - an instantaneous or storage water heater, a "wet" heating element, or using a remote tank and a heat exchanger in a wood-burning stove.

Instantaneous water heater for a shower in a bath is a pleasure that is not available to everyone. And it's not about the price, but about the requirements that this equipment and to the water supply and to the mains. An instantaneous water heater operates at a certain cold water pressure. This problem can be solved by installing a pump (its capacity must be at least 8 liters / min). But in any case, the water will be heated only if there is electricity, and there will be no supply of warm water - this is a running water heater. In addition, only a heater with a capacity of no more than 8 kW is connected to the 220V network, which will provide only one draw-off point with warm water. If you need to have two hot water taps, you will need a 13 kW device, and it is powered from a 380 V network. Even if you are satisfied with an eight-kilowatt instantaneous water heater for a shower, then when you turn it on, the voltage in the network will most likely drop decently: in the countryside networks are not uncommon, but neighbors are unlikely to be happy with such a turn.

Shower water heater. Connection diagram

Storage water heaters for showers are more economical. The power consumed by them is usually 2-3 kW, depending on the volume of the drive, but it is difficult to find a capacity of more than 150 liters. Moreover, such a tank already has a decent size, although there are drives different forms- cylinders are horizontal and vertical, there are also rectangular ones - it's easier to find a place for them, but you still have to screw up your head with its installation. A good option is to install a heater in the attic.

There is another simple way to organize hot water in the bath: a heating element is mounted in the water tank, in the simplest case, a boiler is lowered. There is an outlet from the tank either to a mixer or directly to a shower head with a tap or mixer. When directly connecting a tank with warm water to a shower head, you need to consider a temperature control system so as not to burn yourself with overheated water.

These are, in general, all options for an "electric" shower for a bath. Read more about how to choose a water heater for a bath.

Important! When using electrical heating elements, never forget about electrical safety. Even a new heating element or a boiler can "punch" on the body.

Heating water from the stove

There is also a typical "bath" way: to heat the water in the tank using the heat from a burning stove. There is a method of the previous years - wood-fired titanium, which, nevertheless, is successfully used today. Here is an effective, working, real way to organize a shower in a bath without using electricity.

Scheme of arrangement of a shower in a bath or sauna

This scheme, with some alterations, will be workable both when using a remote water tank, in which water is heated from a heat exchanger in a metal or brick oven, and with a tank on a pipe (installed at a sufficient height). In general, the circuit is good. Instead of a hand pump, you can install an electric one, but then the circuit will work only if there is a power supply.

We chose a method to heat the water, but now it is necessary that cold and hot water be supplied to the mixers. If the hot water tank is not high, pumps are provided to increase the water pressure to provide the required pressure in the system. Shower pumps can be of several types:

• Small pumping stations are more expensive. But they have protective automatics that will monitor the pressure in the system (it will turn off if there is a power failure, etc.).
• Boost pumps. They also turn on automatically when the pressure in the system drops, but the type of pump and its characteristics for each water supply system must be selected separately. Their disadvantage is that if there is no pressure accumulator in the system, when the pump is turned on / off, the water pressure "jumps" significantly.
• Garden pumps. The cheapest option, but they do not have any automation, therefore, you need to turn them on / off manually.

If possible, it is easier to install a cold and hot water tank in the bathhouse on the second floor or in the attic and not bother with pumps, which are not easy to find for hot water.

Option for installing the water tank at a height higher than the ceiling height

Shower cubicle and drain

There are many options for a shower cubicle: from a simple pipe mounted into the walls, along which a waterproof curtain "rides" on rings, to an ultra-modern (or not super) shower cubicle. From experience we can say that if a booth is installed in a bathhouse, then the most primitive one is walls, a door and a pallet, and in principle, more is not needed. This is an option for those who do not want to bother with waterproofing adjacent walls and like quick solutions.

Bath shower with titanium

In general, if a separate small room is not provided for when planning a shower, you can fence off a part of the washing compartment where it should be organized. If there is no drain, you will have to arrange it.

If you plan to install a pallet, it requires a separate concrete base with a connected drain pipe. The foundation is necessary so that under the weight of a person the plastic of the pallet does not "walk", since most of the bath showers contain plastic products - they are inexpensive and, if properly installed, are durable enough, and plastic bends under the weight of even a not very large person.

If a pallet is not provided, and the floor is wooden, you need to protect it from water. For this, galvanized metal is laid on the area where the shower cabin will be arranged, the joints of the sheets are carefully sealed with silicone sealant (for example, Ceresit CS 25). Reinforcement for the screed is laid on the metal with a slope towards the drain, everything is filled with cement mortar. On a fresh solution (while maintaining the slope), and its joints are also well coated with silicone. Instead of galvanized metal, modern waterproofing films can be used. In this case, they must be reinforced.

Shower drain

If the walls in the shower stall are wooden, they need protection from water. You can protect them with ceramic tiles, plastic panels, or simply lay sheets of plastic of a suitable size, sealing the joints with the same silicone. Under any type of finish, it is also advisable to lay a layer of waterproofing. In the simplest case, it is a plastic film, which is attached to the walls with staples from a construction stippler or planks and nails, and it is advisable to seal the resulting holes with reinforced tape.

Plastic shower panels

Plastic panels for a shower are a budget option for protecting walls in a shower stall, everyone can handle the installation. At the first stage, metal profiles are attached to the walls, from which the frame-lathing of the walls is assembled. Plastic panels are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws with a wide head, which are connected to one another with a lock. The connection is tight (you just need to be careful not to damage the rather fragile edges of the locks). In the corners of the outer and inner corners, special corners are used, which are sold in the same place as the panels, the baseboards are strengthened at the top and bottom. Indeed, nothing complicated, but the look is like a monolithic wall and protection from water is almost 100%.

The general principles of how to make a shower in a bath are outlined, and how to do it, everyone decides for himself. There are just a lot of options here, because you can just hang up a shower bucket and overturn it, or build a full-fledged shower cubicle with automatic hot water supply. Below are real photos of the shower in the bath. Maybe you will find an idea for yourself ...

Homemade shower

Pouring device + shower

Hot tub plus shower

Shower using an electric boiler

If someone thinks that to equip a washing room it is enough to hang two pipes with a mixer on the wall, then he is deeply mistaken. You need to think about arranging a separate washing room in the bathhouse even during the design period of the structure. At the same time, you should choose the final version of the shower room and think over questions about the supply of hot and cold water... At your discretion, we will present several options for arranging the flushing rooms, we hope that this knowledge will facilitate the final choice. Further in the article, we will give step-by-step instructions for the most used type of washing and practical advice professionals.

The optimal location of the shower room is an adjacent room with a steam room.

Bath shower - photo

The room should not be walk-through, if year-round use is proposed, then heating must be done. It can be heated both during the heating of the bath with the help of a heat exchanger built into the boiler, or independently.

For autonomous heating, it is better to use ordinary safe electric heaters (quickly and cheaply) or make water heating of all additional rooms in the bath.

If you wish, you can put a shower stall in the corner of the room or simply fence off the place for taking water procedures with a sliding curtain. The specific option and size of the washroom depends on the size of the bath and the financial resources of the developers.

Floors and drainage

Water drainage must be done during the construction of the building. As a rule, water is discharged into special storage tanks with plastic or metal pipes. We advise you to make the floors wooden solid, drain with slots are not recommended. The drainage system and floors must be made in accordance with building codes, otherwise they may be non-functional, and the service life will be significantly reduced.

Engineering Communication

There are two options for laying utility lines: closed under the wall cladding and open. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Option for laying communications	Description	Advantages and disadvantages
	This refers to electrical wiring and plumbing. Work should be done before finishing the interior.	Advantages: all engineering networks are hidden from view, decorative characteristics are increased. Disadvantages: the complexity of performing routine technical and repair work. In the event of leaks, the wooden structures of the building can be significantly damaged.
	Installation is carried out after the conclusion of finishing interior walls washing room.	Advantages: you can replace equipment at any time without losing much time and money. Disadvantages: the presence of various pipelines does not decorate the room.

During the installation of engineering networks, several prerequisites must be met.

1. First. Hot water pipes should always be above cold water pipes. Otherwise, hot air, rising upward, can create condensation on the surface of cold pipes, water droplets will fall on the walls and leave ugly marks on them. The wood cladding in these places will not only darken, but will also decay much faster.

   

2. Second. Electric cables in all cases must lie above water pipes, the distance between them is at least ten centimeters.
3. Third. If the water supply system is hidden, then the pipes must be covered with thermal insulation. This is done not so much to prevent freezing as to prevent the formation of condensation on pipes with cold water. The air is always warm under the sheathing, condensation forms on cold surfaces, water droplets will wet the wooden sheathing elements. The tree dries in these places for a very long time, and the consequences of prolonged high humidity are well known to everyone.

   

   

Methods for heating water for a shower

A very important and one of the most technically difficult questions. Much depends on the frequency of using the bath or shower and technical characteristics engineering networks. We offer three options for solving the problem.

1. The water is heated in the steam room boiler. Quite a common way. In the implementation there is a fairly large selection of ready-made boilers with water heaters. If they are too expensive for you or do not satisfy the characteristics, then you can make the units yourself. Advantages - minimal cost and ease of installation. Disadvantages - shower can only be taken simultaneously with bath procedures. And if there is a need to wash in the shower? Quite inconvenient, you need to heat the whole bath, this takes time and firewood.

   

   Sauna boiler - photo

2. The water is heated by a separate boiler. For many performance characteristics, an acceptable option, you can use the shower at any time. The total length of engineering networks is significantly reduced and their installation is simplified. Disadvantage - the existing electrical networks must withstand the power of the heating device.

   

3. Combined water heating method. The shower room is powered by both the steam room boiler and separate boiler... With the help of shut-off valves, it is possible to switch the water supply depending on the mode of using the bath. If the steam room is heated, then warm water is supplied to the shower from the heat exchanger. If the steam room is not used, then the water is heated only by the boiler. Advantages: the comfort of using the shower room increases, and electrical energy is saved. Disadvantages - the installation of water pipes becomes much more complicated, the number of water fittings and fittings increases, the price and installation time will increase.

   

At this, the theoretical and preparatory part can be considered completed, you can proceed to the installation instructions.

Materials for arranging a shower

It is not worth talking about mixers, despite the huge variety of models, there is no big difference between them, but it is advisable to remember about pipes.

Type of pipes	Advantages and disadvantages
	Pros - durability and high rates resistance to mechanical damage. Disadvantages - high price, difficult to install, you need to have special welding and locksmith equipment, large specific gravity(installation is not possible on all wall claddings of the washroom).
	The cheapest, the installation of a water supply system can be completely completed in a few hours. Disadvantages - the heating temperature cannot exceed + 60 ° С, appearance is very far from modern requirements.
	What you need in all respects. In terms of cost, they occupy an intermediate position, appearance and reliability fully satisfy the majority of consumers. We recommend choosing this option.

Practical advice. Foil-reinforced pipes can withstand significant heating temperatures, deformation or pipeline rupture is completely excluded. However, polypropylene pipes without foil reinforcement do not lose their initial strength characteristics when heated above + 100 ° C. No professional has yet seen deformed piping in a washroom. And the price of reinforced pipes exceeds the cost of ordinary ones by about a third.

Prices for metal-plastic water pipes

metal-plastic water pipes

Step-by-step instructions for installing a shower

Among all the options for arranging the washing room, we will choose the most frequently used one. In our opinion, it can really satisfy the majority of bath owners.

Initial data. The water supply system will be installed along the casing, using polypropylene pipes.

The supply of pipes to the washing room has already been made, shut-off valves for hot and cold water have been installed.

The pipes can be mounted to the ceiling or to the floor. There is no difference, each method has equal positive and negative sides.

Step 1. On paper, draw a plumbing diagram showing the location of the faucet. Take your time, try several options. Consider the mounting height of the mixer, taking into account the method of supplying hot water. If it is supplied under pressure - the mixer can be positioned high, when water flows by gravity from the storage tank, then its location must be taken into account.

Step 2. Transfer your diagram to the wall. Carefully draw the lines of the pipes with a pencil, determine the distance between them. Count the number of fittings, accessories, fasteners and valves. If the bath is not used in winter, then you need to drain the water.

Step 3. Measure the length of the pipes. Once again, calculate everything and go to the store for materials. To connect, you need a special soldering iron, it is relatively inexpensive, and will always come in handy on the farm. Scissors for cutting pipes are included with the soldering iron.

In the photo - scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes

Everything is ready - you can start editing. Work begins with the installation of plastic supports on the wall. Depending on the distance between the pipes, single or double can be used, the supports are fixed with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is within 30 ÷ 35 cm, do not increase it - over time, the plastic pipes will sag.

Practical advice. Buy a few ordinary couplings, they can be used to correct mistakes made when taking measurements.

Important. All metal threaded fittings are made of stainless alloys with low physical strength. When tightening, do not apply great force, the threaded part can easily break off.

Another problem is associated with low strength. If your mixer is quite heavy, then cracks will appear in the joints over time due to physical fatigue of the metal, resulting from prolonged action of minor forces. Tip - choose lighter mixer models.

These leaks, by the way, are very invisible to the eye. Water does not hit with a stream, but only drips, it seems that the sealing of the threaded connection is poorly done. Inexperienced craftsmen begin to quickly remove the mixer and break off the end of the threaded connection, it remains in the fitting or tap (depending on the mixer model). It is quite difficult to unscrew a piece of broken off thread; you need to have or make special devices yourself.

The faucet will be attached to the combined male coupling, the fitting to the wall will be fixed with self-tapping screws.

How to properly solder polypropylene pipes

Everything seems simple if you have experience, and the first time to do the soldering is scary.

It is necessary to mark the pipes before welding (see information below)

Step 1. Screw sleeves to the front of the soldering iron to heat the inner or outer surfaces of pipes and fittings. We recommend using Ø ¾ ″ pipes for showers. The pipe is heated on the outer surfaces, the connecting elements (couplings, triangles, squares, etc.) on the inner ones.

Step 2... Plug the soldering iron into a 220 V network. The device has a heating temperature regulator and two indicator lamps. Green indicates that the soldering iron is ready for work, red indicates that the heating temperature is insufficient.

Turn on the soldering iron and wait until the green light comes on

Step 3... Set the temperature with the regulator to + 250 ° С. Specific values ​​do not play a big role, the degree of pipe heating is regulated by the holding time.

Step 4. Take the two pieces to be connected and insert them each into its place in the soldering iron. Heat for about 5-9 seconds. The ends should go into the heaters all the way.

We heat the couplings along the inner surface

Practical advice. In the instructions for the soldering iron there is a table indicating the heating time of the pipe, depending on its diameter. Do not pay attention to it, watch only the degree of softening of the plastic. After all, you do not heat the entire pipe in thickness, but only the top layer 1 mm thick. What radius of the pipe does not matter, which means that the heating time remains almost unchanged.

This also explains the fact that you should not use the soldering iron heating temperature table. We advise you to always set it to maximum - the pipe will warm up much faster.

Step 5. The surface of a heated plastic pipe should resemble thick sour cream. When this softening is achieved, remove the elements simultaneously from both sides of the soldering iron.

Important. Necessarily on both sides at the same time, otherwise big problems- the soldering iron does not have a side stop.

Step 6. Connect the two heated planes to each other as soon as possible, keep them as even as possible. In the clamped state, you need to hold it for 10 ÷ 15 seconds, the exact time depends on the heating temperature of the plastic. As you can see, almost all parameters and modes of pipe welding are determined not by instructions, but by the experience of the master. Experience will appear already on the second or third gluing, gain skills on unnecessary segments.

Prices for polypropylene pipes

polypropylene pipes

How to measure and cut polypropylene pipes

Step 1. After you have marked the position of the pipes on the wall and secured the plastic clips, you can begin to mount the pipes.

Shoot with maximum precision. Keep in mind that the connections are non-separable and non-adjustable.

Step 2. Begin pipe assembly from the entry point. Screw the female couplings onto the valves. To seal threaded connections, use FUM tape, it holds the connection perfectly and does not require much effort to completely seal.

Step 3. First, lay one pipe to the junction with the mixer, and then start with the second. To make connections end-to-end with the wall, lift the heated soldering iron from the stand, insert one heating element into the hole of the coupling near the wall, and push a piece of pipe of the required length into the second. Keep the device level, the axis of the heating elements must be aligned with the axis of the pipe.

Step 4. After 5 ÷ 8 seconds, simultaneously remove the heating elements from the coupling and pipe, install it on the stand and quickly insert the heated end of the pipe into the coupling.

Very important. During cooling, it is strictly forbidden to move the pipe and the coupling between them. If you get a misaligned connection, leave it that way.

With further installation, the plastic pipe can be slightly bent and thus correct the error. If you begin to turn the connection during cooling, then the tightness will be broken. It will be possible to find out about this only after filling the water supply system with water. And it is very difficult to fix it, you will have to completely cut out the old connections and mount new ones. For such purposes, we have already advised above to keep a few additional couplings in stock.

Important. The length of the soldering point of the pipe and fitting in each element is 15 mm, this must always be taken into account when taking measurements. If, for example, the distance from the pipe to the corner is 20 centimeters, then you need to cut the pipe with a length of 23 cm (1.5 cm on each side for welding).

You can cut the tubes with special scissors, which are included with a soldering iron, hacksaw or grinder. Make the cut as perpendicular to the pipe axis as possible. If there are burrs, remove them with any tool at hand.

This will make it possible to avoid two problems:

• if you warm up the ends at a greater distance, then the melted polypropylene during the connection will significantly reduce the nominal pipe diameter;
• all connections will have the same length, minimizing the risk of problems when connecting the following elements.

If you work with pipes reinforced with aluminum foil, then you need to carefully monitor that during the connection it remains intact along the entire length of the heated area.

Continue welding the plumbing up to the fixing point of the faucet. Finished making the cold pipe, proceed to the hot one. Problems may arise when cornering. If you do not respect the dimensions, then the distance between the pipes after passing the bend will not be the same. This is considered a marriage, especially when you used twin supports to fix the pipes to the wall. How to prevent such a situation? The last segments before the turn must have a difference in length equal to the distance between the paired supports. Always remember this rule.

How to fix the mixer

One of the most difficult operations, several parameters must be observed simultaneously: the horizontal position of the corners with external threads and the distance between them. The mixer is fixed to the wall elbows, and it must be strictly horizontal position... How to get it done the first time? Start precise position control after the last bend with both pipes.

Step 1. Find out the distance between the ends of the elbows and the exact location of the mixer installation. Remember to add 15 mm on each side for the length of the weld.

Important. The distance between two vertical pipe sections should be equal to the distance between the mixer adapters installed in the extreme upper position. The adapters are off-centered, which allows you to adjust their exact position by a few millimeters. By setting them in the middle position, you get the opportunity to make adjustments both vertically and horizontally. This property allows small slips to be corrected without problems after pipe welding.

Step 2. Weld the upper ends of the pipes, then attach the end squares with female threads to them.

Step 3. Temporarily screw the faucet to the fittings, lean it against the wall and mark the position of the mounting holes.

Step 4... Dismantle the mixer and, in turn, use self-tapping screws to firmly fix each of the two threaded end angles.

Step 5. Using sealing tape, screw on the mixer.

If it is difficult for you to do such work or you plan to connect other plumbing equipment to the mixer, then you can use a mounting bar to mount it on the wall. It has standard spacing between threaded connections. The end exits of the mounting strip can be temporarily plugged with special plugs or the extension of the pipelines can be connected immediately.

Do not rush to solder all the connections one by one. There are often times when one spike needs to be skipped, the next one, and then returned to the missed one. The fact is that you have to attach soldering irons to the wall, and this is not always convenient, previously installed pipes and connections can interfere. In such cases, you must first weld in the most inconvenient places, and then work in easily accessible ones.

Intermediate alignment bar

If you have problems of this kind and you do not know how to solve them, do not be discouraged and do not waste time coming up with different options. It is better to cut a section of the pipe, solder the two ends separately, and then use a coupling to connect the cut parts. We do not argue that the additional coupling does not serve as a decoration, but it is better to go this way than to redo the installation work again.

Prices for different types of mixers

shower faucet

Video - Plumbing Layout

Video - Installation of plastic pipes

Video - How to solder polypropylene pipes

The shower in the bath can be done in different ways. The simplest option is to install a pouring device (bucket) to which water is supplied.

Such a bucket shower for a bath can be bought in a specialized store. There are models in which water is poured from an ordinary bucket, and there are those to which water is supplied from a water supply system. Turning on and off the water is controlled by a float (a device similar to that in the drain tanks).

Bath shower bucket

How to heat water for a shower in a bath

You can heat water for a shower either with the help of electric heaters - an instantaneous or storage water heater, a "wet" heating element, or using a remote tank and a heat exchanger in a wood-burning stove.

Instantaneous water heater for a shower in a bath is a pleasure that is not available to everyone. And it's not about the price, but about the requirements that this equipment makes to both the water supply and the electrical network. An instantaneous water heater operates at a certain cold water pressure. This problem can be solved by installing a pump (its capacity must be at least 8 liters / min). But in any case, the water will be heated only if there is electricity, and there will be no supply of warm water - this is a running water heater. In addition, only a heater with a capacity of no more than 8 kW is connected to the 220V network, which will provide only one draw-off point with warm water. If you need to have two hot water taps, you will need a 13 kW device, and it is powered from a 380 V network. Even if you are satisfied with an eight-kilowatt instantaneous water heater for a shower, then when you turn it on, the voltage in the network will most likely drop decently: in the countryside networks are not uncommon, but neighbors are unlikely to be happy with such a turn.

Storage water heaters for showers are more economical. The power consumed by them is usually 2-3 kW, depending on the volume of the drive, but it is difficult to find a capacity of more than 150 liters. Moreover, such a tank already has decent dimensions, although there are drives of different shapes - horizontal and vertical cylinders, there are also rectangular ones - it is easier to find a place for them, but you still have to screw up your head with its installation. A good option is to install a heater in the attic.

There is another simple way to organize hot water in the bath: a heating element is mounted in the water tank, in the simplest case, a boiler is lowered. There is an outlet from the tank either to a mixer or directly to a shower head with a tap or mixer. When directly connecting a tank with warm water to a shower head, you need to consider a temperature control system so as not to burn yourself with overheated water.

These are, in general, all options for an "electric" shower for a bath. Read more about how to choose a water heater for a bath here.

Important! When using electrical heating elements, never forget about electrical safety. Even a new heating element or a boiler can "punch" on the body.

There is also a typical "bath" way: to heat the water in the tank using the heat from the burning stove (read about stoves with water tanks here). There is a method of the previous years - wood-fired titanium, which, nevertheless, is successfully used today. Here is an effective, working, real way to organize a shower in a bath without using electricity.

Scheme of arrangement of a shower in a bath or sauna

This scheme, with some alterations, will be workable both when using a remote water tank, in which water is heated from a heat exchanger in a metal or brick oven, and with a tank on a pipe (installed at a sufficient height). In general, the circuit is good. Instead of a hand pump, you can install an electric one, but then the circuit will work only if there is a power supply.

We chose a method to heat the water, but now it is necessary that cold and hot water be supplied to the mixers. If the hot water tank is not high, pumps are provided to increase the water pressure to provide the required pressure in the system. Shower pumps can be of several types:

• Small pumping stations are more expensive. But they have protective automatics that will monitor the pressure in the system (it will turn off if there is a power failure, etc.).
• Boost pumps. They also turn on automatically when the pressure in the system drops, but the type of pump and its characteristics for each water supply system must be selected separately. Their disadvantage is that if there is no pressure accumulator in the system, when the pump is turned on / off, the water pressure "jumps" significantly.
• Garden pumps. The cheapest option, but they do not have any automation, therefore, you need to turn them on / off manually.

If possible, it is easier to install a cold and hot water tank in the bathhouse on the second floor or in the attic and not bother with pumps, which are not easy to find for hot water.

Option for installing the water tank at a height higher than the ceiling height

Shower cubicle and drain

There are many options for a shower cubicle: from a simple pipe mounted into the walls, along which a waterproof curtain "rides" on rings, to an ultra-modern (or not super) shower cubicle. What are the shower cabins, read here. From experience we can say that if a booth is installed in a bathhouse, then the most primitive one is walls, a door and a pallet, and in principle, more is not needed. This is an option for those who do not want to bother with waterproofing adjacent walls and like quick solutions.

Bath shower with titanium

In general, if a separate small room is not provided for when planning a shower, you can fence off a part of the washing compartment where the drainage system should be organized. If there is no drain, you will have to arrange it.

If you plan to install a pallet, it requires a separate concrete base with a connected drain pipe. The foundation is necessary so that under the weight of a person the plastic of the pallet does not "walk", since most of the bath showers contain plastic products - they are inexpensive and, if properly installed, are durable enough, and plastic bends under the weight of even a not very large person.

If a pallet is not provided, and the floor is wooden, you need to protect it from water. For this, galvanized metal is laid on the area where the shower cabin will be arranged, the joints of the sheets are carefully sealed with silicone sealant (for example, Ceresit CS 25). Reinforcement for the screed is laid on the metal with a slope towards the drain, everything is filled with cement mortar. Floor tiles are laid on the fresh mortar (while maintaining the slope), and its joints are also well coated with silicone. Instead of galvanized metal, modern waterproofing films can be used. In this case, they must be reinforced.

If the walls in the shower stall are wooden, they need protection from water. You can protect them with ceramic tiles, plastic panels, or simply lay sheets of plastic of a suitable size, sealing the joints with the same silicone. Under any type of finish, it is also advisable to lay a layer of waterproofing. In the simplest case, it is a plastic film, which is attached to the walls with staples from a construction stippler or planks and nails, and it is advisable to seal the resulting holes with reinforced tape.

Plastic panels for a shower are a budget option for protecting walls in a shower stall, everyone can handle the installation. At the first stage, metal profiles are attached to the walls, from which the frame-lathing of the walls is assembled. Plastic panels are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws with a wide head, which are connected to one another with a lock. The connection is tight (you just need to be careful not to damage the rather fragile edges of the locks). In the corners of the outer and inner corners, special corners are used, which are sold in the same place as the panels, the baseboards are strengthened at the top and bottom. Indeed, nothing complicated, but the look is like a monolithic wall and protection from water is almost 100%.

The general principles of how to make a shower in a bath are outlined, and how to do it, everyone decides for himself. There are just a lot of options here, because you can just hang up a shower bucket and overturn it, or build a full-fledged shower cubicle with automatic hot water supply. Below are real photos of the shower in the bath. Maybe you will find an idea for yourself ...

Pouring device + shower

If someone thinks that to equip a washing room it is enough to hang two pipes with a mixer on the wall, then he is deeply mistaken. You need to think about arranging a separate washing room in the bathhouse even during the design period of the structure. At the same time, you should choose the final version of the shower room and think over the questions about the supply of hot and cold water. At your discretion, we will present several options for arranging the flushing rooms, we hope that this knowledge will facilitate the final choice. Further in the article, we will give step-by-step instructions for the most used type of washing and practical advice from professionals.

Room placement options

The optimal location of the shower room is an adjacent room with a steam room.

The room should not be walk-through, if year-round use is proposed, then heating must be done. It can be heated both during the heating of the bath with the help of a heat exchanger built into the boiler, or independently.

For autonomous heating, it is better to use ordinary safe electric heaters (quickly and cheaply) or make water heating of all additional rooms in the bath.

If you wish, you can put a shower stall in the corner of the room or simply fence off the place for taking water procedures with a sliding curtain. The specific option and size of the washroom depends on the size of the bath and the financial resources of the developers.

Floors and drainage

Water drainage must be done during the construction of the building. As a rule, water is discharged into special storage tanks with plastic or metal pipes. We advise you to make the floors wooden solid, drain with slots are not recommended. The drainage system and floors must be made in accordance with building codes, otherwise they may be non-functional, and the service life will be significantly reduced.

Engineering Communication

There are two options for laying utility lines: closed under the wall cladding and open. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Option for laying communications Description Advantages and disadvantages

	This refers to electrical wiring and plumbing. Work should be done before finishing the interior.	Advantages: all engineering networks are hidden from view, decorative characteristics are increased. Disadvantages: the complexity of performing routine technical and repair work. In the event of leaks, the wooden structures of the building can be significantly damaged.
	Installation is carried out after finishing the interior walls of the washing room.	Advantages: you can replace equipment at any time without losing much time and money. Disadvantages: the presence of various pipelines does not decorate the room.

During the installation of engineering networks, several prerequisites must be met.

Methods for heating water for a shower

A very important and one of the most technically difficult questions. Much depends on the frequency of using the bath or shower and the technical characteristics of engineering networks. We offer three options for solving the problem.

At this, the theoretical and preparatory part can be considered completed, you can proceed to the installation instructions.

Materials for arranging a shower

It is not worth talking about mixers, despite the huge variety of models, there is no big difference between them, but it is advisable to remember about pipes.

Type of pipes Advantages and disadvantages

	Pros - durability and high resistance to mechanical damage. Disadvantages - high price, difficult to install, it is necessary to have special welding and locksmith equipment, high specific gravity (not all wall claddings of the washing room can be installed).
	The cheapest, the installation of a water supply system can be completely completed in a few hours. Disadvantages - the heating temperature cannot exceed + 60 ° С, the appearance is very far from modern requirements.
	What you need in all respects. In terms of cost, they occupy an intermediate position, appearance and reliability fully satisfy the majority of consumers. We recommend choosing this option.

Practical advice. Foil-reinforced pipes can withstand significant heating temperatures, deformation or pipeline rupture is completely excluded. However, polypropylene pipes without foil reinforcement do not lose their initial strength characteristics when heated above + 100 ° C. No professional has yet seen deformed piping in a washroom. And the price of reinforced pipes exceeds the cost of ordinary ones by about a third.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a shower

Among all the options for arranging the washing room, we will choose the most frequently used one. In our opinion, it can really satisfy the majority of bath owners.

Initial data. The water supply system will be installed along the casing, using polypropylene pipes.

The supply of pipes to the washing room has already been made, shut-off valves for hot and cold water have been installed.

The pipes can be mounted to the ceiling or to the floor. There is no difference, each method has equal positive and negative sides.

Step 1. On paper, draw a plumbing diagram showing the location of the faucet. Take your time, try several options. Consider the mounting height of the mixer, taking into account the method of supplying hot water. If it is supplied under pressure - the mixer can be positioned high, when water flows by gravity from the storage tank, then its location must be taken into account.

Step 2. Transfer your diagram to the wall. Carefully draw the lines of the pipes with a pencil, determine the distance between them. Count the number of fittings, accessories, fasteners and valves. If the bath is not used in winter, then you need to drain the water.

Step 3. Measure the length of the pipes. Once again, calculate everything and go to the store for materials. To connect, you need a special soldering iron, it is relatively inexpensive, and will always come in handy on the farm. Scissors for cutting pipes are included with the soldering iron.

Everything is ready - you can start editing. Work begins with the installation of plastic supports on the wall. Depending on the distance between the pipes, single or double can be used, the supports are fixed with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is within 30 ÷ 35 cm, do not increase it - over time, the plastic pipes will sag.

Practical advice. Buy a few ordinary couplings, they can be used to correct mistakes made when taking measurements.

Important. All metal threaded fittings are made of stainless alloys with low physical strength. When tightening, do not apply great force, the threaded part can easily break off.

Another problem is associated with low strength. If your mixer is quite heavy, then cracks will appear in the joints over time due to physical fatigue of the metal, resulting from prolonged action of minor forces. Tip - choose lighter mixer models.

These leaks, by the way, are very invisible to the eye. Water does not hit with a stream, but only drips, it seems that the sealing of the threaded connection is poorly done. Inexperienced craftsmen begin to quickly remove the mixer and break off the end of the threaded connection, it remains in the fitting or tap (depending on the mixer model). It is quite difficult to unscrew a piece of broken off thread; you need to have or make special devices yourself.

The faucet will be attached to the combined male coupling, the fitting to the wall will be fixed with self-tapping screws.

How to properly solder polypropylene pipes

Everything seems simple if you have experience, and the first time to do the soldering is scary.

It is necessary to mark the pipes before welding (see information below)

Step 1. Screw sleeves to the front of the soldering iron to heat the inner or outer surfaces of pipes and fittings. We recommend using Ø ¾ ″ pipes for showers. The pipe is heated on the outer surfaces, the connecting elements (couplings, triangles, squares, etc.) on the inner ones.

Step 2... Plug the soldering iron into a 220 V network. The device has a heating temperature regulator and two indicator lamps. Green indicates that the soldering iron is ready for work, red indicates that the heating temperature is insufficient.

Turn on the soldering iron and wait until the green light comes on

Step 3... Set the temperature with the regulator to + 250 ° С. Specific values ​​do not play a big role, the degree of pipe heating is regulated by the holding time.

Step 4. Take the two pieces to be connected and insert them each into its place in the soldering iron. Heat for about 5-9 seconds. The ends should go into the heaters all the way.

We heat the couplings along the inner surface

Practical advice. In the instructions for the soldering iron there is a table indicating the heating time of the pipe, depending on its diameter. Do not pay attention to it, watch only the degree of softening of the plastic. After all, you do not heat the entire pipe in thickness, but only the top layer 1 mm thick. What radius of the pipe does not matter, which means that the heating time remains almost unchanged.

This also explains the fact that you should not use the soldering iron heating temperature table. We advise you to always set it to maximum - the pipe will warm up much faster.

Step 5. The surface of a heated plastic pipe should resemble thick sour cream. When this softening is achieved, remove the elements simultaneously from both sides of the soldering iron.

Important. Necessarily from both sides at the same time, otherwise there are big problems - the soldering iron does not have a side stop.

Step 6. Connect the two heated planes to each other as soon as possible, keep them as even as possible. In the clamped state, you need to hold it for 10 ÷ 15 seconds, the exact time depends on the heating temperature of the plastic. As you can see, almost all parameters and modes of pipe welding are determined not by instructions, but by the experience of the master. Experience will appear already on the second or third gluing, gain skills on unnecessary segments.

How to measure and cut polypropylene pipes

Step 1. After you have marked the position of the pipes on the wall and secured the plastic clips, you can begin to mount the pipes.

Shoot with maximum precision. Keep in mind that the connections are non-separable and non-adjustable.

Step 2. Begin pipe assembly from the entry point. Screw the female couplings onto the valves. To seal threaded connections, use FUM tape, it holds the connection perfectly and does not require much effort to completely seal.

Step 3. First, lay one pipe to the junction with the mixer, and then start with the second. To make connections end-to-end with the wall, lift the heated soldering iron from the stand, insert one heating element into the hole of the coupling near the wall, and push a piece of pipe of the required length into the second. Keep the device level, the axis of the heating elements must be aligned with the axis of the pipe.

Step 4. After 5 ÷ 8 seconds, simultaneously remove the heating elements from the coupling and pipe, install it on the stand and quickly insert the heated end of the pipe into the coupling.

Very important. During cooling, it is strictly forbidden to move the pipe and the coupling between them. If you get a misaligned connection, leave it that way.

With further installation, the plastic pipe can be slightly bent and thus correct the error. If you begin to turn the connection during cooling, then the tightness will be broken. It will be possible to find out about this only after filling the water supply system with water. And it is very difficult to fix it, you will have to completely cut out the old connections and mount new ones. For such purposes, we have already advised above to keep a few additional couplings in stock.

Important. The length of the soldering point of the pipe and fitting in each element is 15 mm, this must always be taken into account when taking measurements. If, for example, the distance from the pipe to the corner is 20 centimeters, then you need to cut the pipe with a length of 23 cm (1.5 cm on each side for welding).

You can cut the tubes with special scissors, which are included with a soldering iron, hacksaw or grinder. Make the cut as perpendicular to the pipe axis as possible. If there are burrs, remove them with any tool at hand.

This will make it possible to avoid two problems:

• if you warm up the ends at a greater distance, then the melted polypropylene during the connection will significantly reduce the nominal pipe diameter;
• all connections will have the same length, minimizing the risk of problems when connecting the following elements.

If you work with pipes reinforced with aluminum foil, then you need to carefully monitor that during the connection it remains intact along the entire length of the heated area.

Continue welding the plumbing up to the fixing point of the faucet. Finished making the cold pipe, proceed to the hot one. Problems may arise when cornering. If you do not respect the dimensions, then the distance between the pipes after passing the bend will not be the same. This is considered a marriage, especially when you used twin supports to fix the pipes to the wall. How to prevent such a situation? The last segments before the turn must have a difference in length equal to the distance between the paired supports. Always remember this rule.

How to fix the mixer

One of the most difficult operations, several parameters must be observed simultaneously: the horizontal position of the corners with external threads and the distance between them. The mixer is fixed to the wall elbows, and it must be in a strictly horizontal position. How to get it done the first time? Start precise position control after the last bend with both pipes.

Step 1. Find out the distance between the ends of the elbows and the exact location of the mixer installation. Remember to add 15 mm on each side for the length of the weld.

Important. The distance between two vertical pipe sections should be equal to the distance between the mixer adapters installed in the extreme upper position. The adapters are off-centered, which allows you to adjust their exact position by a few millimeters. By setting them in the middle position, you get the opportunity to make adjustments both vertically and horizontally. This property allows small slips to be corrected without problems after pipe welding.

Step 2. Weld the upper ends of the pipes, then attach the end squares with female threads to them.

Step 3. Temporarily screw the faucet to the fittings, lean it against the wall and mark the position of the mounting holes.

Step 4... Dismantle the mixer and, in turn, use self-tapping screws to firmly fix each of the two threaded end angles.

Step 5. Using sealing tape, screw on the mixer.

If it is difficult for you to do such work or you plan to connect other plumbing equipment to the mixer, then you can use a mounting bar to mount it on the wall. It has standard spacing between threaded connections. The end exits of the mounting strip can be temporarily plugged with special plugs or the extension of the pipelines can be connected immediately.

Do not rush to solder all the connections one by one. There are often times when one spike needs to be skipped, the next one, and then returned to the missed one. The fact is that you have to attach soldering irons to the wall, and this is not always convenient, previously installed pipes and connections can interfere. In such cases, you must first weld in the most inconvenient places, and then work in easily accessible ones.

Intermediate alignment bar

If you have problems of this kind and you do not know how to solve them, do not be discouraged and do not waste time coming up with different options. It is better to cut a section of the pipe, solder the two ends separately, and then use a coupling to connect the cut parts. We do not argue that the additional coupling does not serve as a decoration, but it is better to go this way than to redo the installation work again.

Video - Plumbing Layout

Video - Installation of plastic pipes

Video - How to solder polypropylene pipes

How to make a shower in the bath with your own hands

The question of how to make a shower in the bath arises if you want to have a full bath room in your own possession. Such a device has many different design solutions - from an elementary overturning bucket ("Russian shower") to an automated year-round shower with various functions. How to make a hot shower in a bath?

This problem is solved, proceeding from economic considerations, by installing ready-made equipment or making a system with your own hands. The most important thing is that you can make a shower yourself, but you need to heed the advice of experts.

Features of designing a bath shower

A shower in a bath is considered a necessary functional element for washing the body after a steam room.... If in the old days such an element was replaced by a river or a large tub of cold water, then nowadays everyone is trying to put a shower stall. Moreover, the presence of not only cold but also hot water in the shower is considered a normal condition.

A modern Russian bath, as a rule, has a separate room - a washing room, in which a shower is mounted.

If the bath has tap water (cold and hot) and a sewer, then there is no problem of how to make a shower in the bath - just put a storage tank and a water spray.

Most often, a bathhouse is built without a water supply and sewerage central, and therefore, the following problems appear: installation of a water tank from above; lifting water to fill the container; heating water to the desired temperature; provision of sewage flow of waste water. By their nature, there are two main types of shower cabins: summer and year-round (winter) version. In the summer version, it is enough to install a metal container, where the water will be heated by the sun's rays. In a year-round shower, artificial, controlled heating of water is required.

How to ensure water storage

The first task in deciding how to make a shower in the bath is to provide it with water. To begin with, its source is sought. In addition to the plumbing system, water can be taken from an open reservoir (lake, river, pond) or from underground storage facilities (ground or spring water). In order to supply water to the storage tank, a pump and a pipe system are required.

In the case of an open reservoir, a conventional surface centrifugal pump is installed, which takes water from the source through a hose and feeds it into the container through a pipe. The main problem of such water is pollution, which means that a filter system is needed for coarse and fine cleaning. In addition, it is advisable to take care of biological water purification.

Groundwater has natural filtration and does not require additional purification. The problem is that in order to obtain such water, it is necessary to equip a well and install a deep well pump. Shallow bedding groundwater, as a rule, a well is dug and a submersible pump is installed, which is much cheaper than a downhole apparatus. Of course, the arrangement of a well or a well is an expensive undertaking, but they are usually built not only for a shower, but also to obtain water for domestic needs.

After solving the issue with the water source, you should choose a storage tank. Currently, many different types of plastic and metal containers are being sold, incl. stainless steel, which is considered the most the best option shower storage. In simple economy class showers, a metal barrel with a volume of 100-200 liters is used as a container. As a result, the entire water supply system looks like this: a water source, a pump, a pipeline, a container with a valve and a spray nozzle. The pump can be controlled manually, but most often automatic disconnection from the float system is used, which turns off the pump at the maximum water level in the tank and turns it on when it drops below the reference mark.

How to provide water heating

The question of how to make a shower in a bath with heated water can be resolved different ways... The simplest is the summer option. In this case, the container is located on the roof of the bath, and heating is carried out naturally, from the sun's rays.

Often another question arises: how to make a shower in the sauna from the stove? In this case, two ways are possible: installation of a tank heated from a bath stove or its chimney and heating in the stove according to the "on the passage" system. In the latter case, a coil is mounted in the stove through which water flows from the pump to the shower storage tank. Taking into account the difficulty of controlling the heating of water from the stove, a mixer with valves and hot and cold water should be provided at the shower outlet. Two pipelines must fit into the storage tank: cold and hot water.

Water heating can also be carried out using more modern methods using devices designed for this:

1. Gas heater. Such a heater in the form of a conventional gas column is used if a centralized gas supply is supplied to the site. This system heats the water in the passage and can create hot water accumulation in the tank.
2. Flowing electric heater. Such heaters are produced with a capacity of 3-8 kW and are capable of heating water per passage to a temperature of about 72-75 degrees.
3. Electric heaters for tanks. One of the most common ways to heat water in a bath shower. They provide heating of water in containers of 100-200 liters to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. Such heaters have the great advantage that they quickly heat up a large volume of water, which can then be used for a long time.
4. The use of standard containers with a built-in electric heater. These tanks with a capacity of 90-250 liters are available with an automatic and manual heating control system. Certain types of devices are equipped with a thermostat, which makes it possible to preset the desired temperature for heating the water.

Arrangement of drain

During the construction of a bath, a wastewater disposal system is necessarily provided. Most often, a cesspool is installed with a depth of up to 3 m with a distance from the bath foundation at least 4-6 m. When arranging a shower, its drain system is also directed into this pit. If the shower is equipped in an already built bath, then a section of the floor with an area of ​​1.2x1.2 m is disassembled in the washing room.

In the center of this platform, a drain hole is formed, from which a pipe is diverted into a cesspool. The pipe is laid with a slope to ensure the gravity of water. In place of the dismantled floor, a concrete screed is poured with a slope from all sides in the direction of the drain hole. A wooden lattice is installed on top of the screed. A polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 45-80 mm is usually used as a drain. It is advisable to install a drain on the drain hole to eliminate odor.

How to make a shower in a bath

It is best to provide a shower stall immediately during the construction of a bath. The most suitable option is a nook in the washing room. When building a small bath, a small shower room can be installed in the steam room. The optimal shower area is 1.2x1.2 or 1.2x1.5 m. However, if it is necessary to save space, sometimes a shower room measuring 90x90 cm, and even 80x80 cm, is arranged. Another placement option is an isolated corner with an entrance from the dressing room.

A modern Russian bath is usually equipped with a shower to wash away sweat after a steam room, create a contrasting temperature effect, simply to provide a soothing effect after extreme temperatures. The shower stall can well be made by hand, both simultaneously with the construction of the bath, and during its operation.

Bath water supply: types and installation

Today people no longer go to fetch water for a bath with rocker arms and buckets. Modern buildings have automated delivery systems that allow you to consume the required amount of it hot and cold all year round. We will tell you how to organize such a system in our article.

• Water supply materials
• Water supply system installation
• Hot water supply
• 
  A competent water supply is a clean flow of water under a comfortable and constant pressure, calculated to heat it. The availability of water is a pressing issue; without it, neither hygienic nor wellness procedures in the steam room are inconceivable. It is not difficult to make water supply in the bath with your own hands. It is much more difficult to organize a water source for him when there is no such near the building.

Types of bath water supply

There are two main seasonal types of water supply to bath buildings, let's look at them.
The first, the simplest type is the summer water supply to the bath. This system is designed to operate only during the warm season. Water delivery is made, in addition to the bath, also to other buildings located on the site. The system is built sequentially, when branches are connected to the supply water pipe, if necessary, to distribute water to all its consumers. When cold weather sets in, water is removed from the summer system by gravity to its lowest point through the drain valve.
The second type is the winter version of water supply. Its difference from the summer water supply lies in the possibility of general and selective water supply to a particular building. In addition, the pipeline is supplied with a heating cable installed in its cavity, and a valve for supplying or shutting off water in the selected room. The cable prevents water from freezing in cold sections of the water main. To take a steam bath, it is enough to open the water supply for it by turning the shut-off valve. At the end of the procedures, the pipeline is closed in the same way, and the water from the system is removed by gravity into the sewer network.
For water supply to the bathhouse in winter, there is also an electronic option for controlling the distribution of water flows through the pipeline system. The water supply to the buildings is carried out remotely using a distribution block, which is installed near the water source and controlled by pressing the necessary keys from the buildings connected to the system.

Sources of water supply for baths

Depending on the source of water, the water supply to the bath can have the following options: from a well, from a well, from rainwater storage tanks, from central system plumbing at home.

Bath water supply from a well

Quite often, this option for providing a bath with water seems to be the only possible one, but some of its disadvantages should be taken into account:

• Sharp changes in water level, depending on the weather or season, therefore, during the dry season, the resources of the well may not be enough.
• Well water usually contains suspended particles, since its natural filtration during rains or floods may not cope with its task.
• In winter, the head of the well requires insulation, otherwise there is a high probability of water freezing in it.

For water supply of baths from a well, the required pressure is required, the creation of which is provided by submersible pumps. They all differ from each other in terms of price, power, operating noise and the volume of water pumped per hour. Jeelex pumps are considered a budget option. More expensive, but with less noise - Grundfos JP or Espa Technoplus. Some models do not have dry running protection, in which case the pipe outlet is supplied with a sensor.
Advice! To reduce the noise during operation of the pump, you can equip it with a receiver for 50 liters of water, this will help to equalize and maintain the pressure in the system, which is of no small importance for heating the water in the bath.

Bath water supply from a well

When choosing a water supply for a bath from a well, a pump must be placed in the source, which will pump water into a storage tank as it is consumed.
Wells for water are of two types:

1. Sand wells... Their service life is from 5 to 15 years, it depends on the volume of the aquifer and the rate of water consumption. The average depth of the wells is 10-25 m. One well produces about 1 m3 of water per hour. With temporary seasonal use, it gradually silts up.
2. Artesian wells... Their water is of high quality, almost does not require filtration and is extracted from a depth of more than 30 m. The arrangement of an artesian well is very laborious and costly, but for 50 years one can forget about the problems of water supply.

Important! Drilling and construction of artesian wells is more expensive than sand wells. They need permission from environmental authorities.

Bath water supply with rainwater

The main vulnerability of this option is dependence on natural whims. The rainwater supply system is based on two elements:

• Storage tank made of environmentally friendly material;
• Wiring - ordinary water pipes designed to deliver water to the bath.

Additional costs will be required for the purchase of a centrifugal or submersible pump. Centrifugal pumps are preferable due to their outdoor installation, as water usually silts at the bottom of the tank. Forward pumps with a power of 500 W and a throughput of up to 2.5 m3 per hour do their job well.

Bath water supply from the central water supply system of the house

This is the simplest version of the bath water supply system, which does not require the search and arrangement of water sources. When a bath is located in a territory with an operating water supply system, you need to obtain permission from the owner, make a tie-in to the house, bring pipes to your building, make their internal wiring and connect plumbing fixtures.

Bath water supply materials

To transport water to the bath from any source, pipes are required, which are made of various materials:

1. ... They are indispensable when installing an external bath water supply. Such products are elastic, which allows them to bend during installation. The pipes are securely connected to each other using special soldering.
2. Reinforced-plastic pipes... They are most often used for internal plumbing in bath rooms.
3. Steel pipes... Now they are rarely used for baths due to their rapid corrosion.
4. Copper pipes... They have excellent performance characteristics, but cannot withstand competition in the market due to their high price.

Bath water supply system installation

After preparing the source of water supply for the bath, piping is laid and the corresponding equipment is connected to them inside the premises. Installation of the pipeline to the bathhouse, used only in the summer, can be performed in simplified ways.
The water supply system can be made on top of the ground and dismantled with the onset of cold weather, as well as laid underground at a shallow depth in order to avoid mechanical damage from walking or garden carts. For winter water supply, pipes are laid below the level of soil freezing and insulated.
Outdoor work must be done in this order:

• A trench of the required depth is dug from the water source to the bathhouse.
• At the bottom there is a sand cushion on which pipes must be laid.
• The products are connected to each other using special fittings.
• The pump is installed and connected.

Internal work takes place in the premises of the bath:

1. A water heater is installed.
2. The pumping station is equipped in a convenient place specially designated for it.
3. Water purification filters are installed.
4. Installation and routing of pipes in the bath is carried out according to the principle: first, vertical risers are installed, and then their horizontal branches.
5. Plumbing fixtures are connected to the pipe outlets.

At the end of the installation, start-up, testing of the water supply system and elimination of the identified deficiencies are carried out.

Hot water supply of the bath

Any bathhouse, even when it is used in the summer season, requires hot water. Before making hot water supply in the bath, you need to choose one of its methods:

• Hot water is supplied to the bath from the house through the water supply in any quantity and at any time. If the house has a well-organized hot water supply all year round, it will be rational to connect the bath to the general system.
• Autonomous way. It requires the installation of a water heater. Its type, type and brand must be chosen taking into account the energy sources that are optimal for use. Storage heaters from Gorenje and Electrolux are practical and convenient. They only require one reliable outlet. Such heaters compete with flow-through similar devices, but for full-fledged operation, especially in winter, flow-through heaters must have the appropriate power and use a three-phase connection.
• Hot water supply can be carried out using electric, gas boilers, which are flow-through and storage.
• Hot water can be obtained by heating it in a tank from a heater.

Watch a video about the bath water supply:

That's all science! If you wish and have time, the water supply of the bath can be done independently. Surely, clean water of any temperature will delight your household. Author: editors TutKnow.ru

The presence of water in the bath significantly increases the comfort of taking water procedures and facilitates the preparation of the bath. In addition, there is no need to allocate special places in the premises for containers for water, there is no need to periodically fill these containers with water.

In the absence of running water, the barrels are filled with water, the surplus after the bath is poured onto the floor, otherwise it will freeze in winter and the ice will damage the containers, and in the summer, as a result of long standing water, various microorganisms and bacteria multiply in it - the water acquires an unpleasant color and smell.

There is another plus of the water supply in the bath - the amount of water poured out under the bath is significantly reduced, and this is always a problem for wooden structures and foundations.

Water supply in the bath is convenient and economical

How can you lead the water into the bath with your own hands, what equipment is required for this and what construction work should be done? In order to make the best decision in each specific case, you should familiarize yourself with the existing types and schemes of bath water supply.

Types of water supply

Depending on the frequency of use of the bath, the water supply can be summer or all-season.

Summer water supply

The simplest, but also the most inconvenient way of water supply.

Advantages

Water pipes are laid along the surface of the site, there is no need to carry out a large amount of excavation to dig trenches. You can use cheap soft hoses, the amount of expensive plumbing fittings is significantly reduced, the hoses can be laid along the shortest route from the water source to the bath. And the main advantage is the low cost of arranging summer water supply.

Flaws

Every season, the hoses must be removed to a warm room; water must be completely drained in the surface pipes. If the night frosts suddenly hit, the hoses and pipes may fail, and a considerable amount of money will be required to buy new ones. But the main drawback is the inability to take bath procedures in winter. If it becomes necessary to use the bathhouse in the winter period, then you need to install a container under water in the premises and carry it in buckets.

Summer water supply is done in extreme cases, and then only as a temporary solution to the problem. There are several reasons that do not allow you to immediately make a winter water supply, and this is not only a lack of finance. For example, on the site, construction work may continue at other facilities, which does not allow digging trenches in the necessary places or there is the possibility of connecting to general engineering networks, but it takes time to agree on various permits, etc.

As practice shows, even those bathhouse owners who initially made the summer water supply, over time, necessarily remake it for the winter. Therefore, we advise you to immediately make the winter version, not to waste time and money on temporary water pipes.

Advantages

The main thing is the uninterrupted availability of water at any time of the year. There is no need to monitor the air temperature and worry about the safety of pipes and hoses during sudden frosts. In addition, time is not wasted on periodic dismantling and reconnection of equipment.

Flaws

The main disadvantage is the increase in the estimated cost of the work and the purchase of equipment. The second drawback is the rather large volume of earthworks and the occurrence of problems associated with such works.

Conclusion - do the winter water supply anyway, in the end it will give you the opportunity to save money and time. It is better to spend money once on real water supply than to install a temporary one at first, and then switch to winter anyway.

Now let's look at what equipment is used to supply water to the bath.

Pumps and pipes for water supply

There are a huge number of domestic pumps for water supply; they differ widely in technical characteristics. When choosing a specific model and type, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the bath's water supply: the depth of the water intake, the delivery height, the length of the pipelines and the need to automate the water intake. Let's consider each type of pump in more detail.

Float

Installed on the surface of the water intake of open water sources: pond, river or well. Suitable for summer water supply only.

Flaws- relatively low power and the absence of built-in automatic on / off systems, can work only at positive temperatures, require the installation of tanks under water.

Advantages- independence from the water level in the source, float pumps float on the surface of the water intake, the suction pipe is always under water, it rises / falls with it.

Submersible

They submerge under water to a shallow depth, after submersion they are fixed with stainless cables or strong polyamide ropes.

Advantages- use at low temperatures is allowed - are constantly under the surface of the water.

The same advantage can become disadvantage- with a significant decrease in the water level in the source, the suction pipe is exposed, the pump stops working. They do not differ in high power, require separate water accumulators, do not have built-in control electronics.

Float and submersible pumps, unlike other types, can supply water with flexible hoses, they do not have lines operating with vacuum. As for the automation, you can do it yourself or purchase it separately in specialized stores. These two types of pumps belong to the category of the cheapest, they are mainly used during the installation of the summer water supply to the bathhouse. They are easy to maintain and repair, and are always within easy reach.

Quite new equipment, universal use.

Advantages

They have built-in automatic on / off switching depending on the pressure in the accumulator - it is possible to connect any equipment, the water pressure is stable. In terms of power, they significantly exceed those described above, they do not require additional containers for water. They can both suck in water from a certain depth, and supply it to the design height. When choosing a specific brand, carefully study the instructions for the pumps, pay attention to the suction depth and delivery head, these are very important criteria. Pumps with accumulators can take water from both open sources and shallow wells.

Flaws

Quite high cost, installation is allowed only in warm rooms. If there is a possibility of freezing the bath, then it is necessary to resolve issues with the pump insulation or drain the water from it. It takes a long time to drain / fill in water, in addition, you will have to install additional water shut-off valves to drain water from vertical pipelines. Another drawback is that the units are quite noisy, the constant turning on / off of the electric motor can cause a feeling of discomfort.

Deep

The most expensive, reliable and powerful pumps. They are used for installation in deep wells and have their own multi-stage protection against silting and short circuits. It is economically unprofitable to use for only one bath, it is recommended to purchase such pumps for the installation of a water supply system in all buildings available at a summer cottage. Flaw- a water storage device is required, in most cases the Rozhnovsky water tower is used for this purpose.

Submersible pumps are lowered into wells only on metal pipes, the use of plastic pipes is excluded.

Where can you get water

Source Description Illustration

Open sources: river or pond.	If, of course, they are on the site. The benefits are zero costs. Disadvantages - there may be questions about water quality, the risks of clogging of pumps increase.
For the majority of saunas, this is the optimal solution. In terms of quality, it is suitable for cooking - water from wells can be used not only for a bath, but also for a residential building.
They can be shallow (on sand) or deep (on limestone). The gubin of the first does not exceed 20 meters, the specific values ​​depend on the geodetic features of the area and water balance soils. The advantages of shallow wells are relatively low cost. Disadvantages - low water debit, high risks of flooding the well and clogging the pump. If water is taken from the wells regularly, the risks of silting are reduced, the sludge is sucked in by the pump, the mesh filter is cleaned. But if the well is used very rarely, then silting occurs quickly. The second wells have the highest performance in all parameters. But they also have a significant drawback - the high cost of work. The drilling depth can be several tens of meters or more.

When choosing a specific place for water intake, take into account the maximum number of individual factors - this is an axiom of any planning. Our additional advice is to plan a few steps ahead, do not live for today. If at the moment it is enough for you to take water for the bath from the pond, then keep in mind that in a few years no one will want to use such water. Why do the same job twice? Make a normal water supply at once, this will significantly expand its capabilities.

How to make a do-it-yourself bath water supply

Let's consider one of the rather successful options in all respects - a winter water supply from a well using a pumping station and a hydraulic accumulator.

Step 1. Preliminary planning and purchase of equipment.

First of all, draw a plumbing diagram. Indicate exactly where the pumping station will be installed in the bath, to which consumers the water is connected, from where the intake is made. We are considering the case when there is already a well on the site, if it is not there, we will have to dig it. This is a rather complex work, we will tell you how to dig a well correctly in our next article.

An additional filter must be installed near the pump. The pump is equipped with one filter on the submersible check valve, but the mesh size can only hold coarse sand. And the pump is afraid of small abrasive particles, such a filter does not catch them.

Video - Filter for a pump into a well, well

Video - Calculation of a pump for water supply

For the water supply, you can use flexible polyethylene pipes connected by collapsible couplings or plastic pipes connected with a special welding machine.

We recommend using the first option for laying pipes in a trench, such a connection is quite reliable, in the event of breaking loads, the pipe is slightly pulled out of the rubber seal, this is provided for by the device of couplings. The tightness of the connection is not compromised, which is very important if the water supply is in a trench.

In the bath, you can use plastic pipes, to connect them you need to have a special welding machine, it is inexpensive, it will always come in handy on the farm. The diameter of the intake and main pipes is at least two inches, the wiring around the room can be made with pipes of a smaller diameter. Use special adapters to change from one pipe diameter to another.

Now you can go to the store, experienced sales consultants will give you additional advice on the optimal configuration of the selected equipment. The complete set depends on the manufacturer and the type of equipment.

Expansion tank (accumulator) horizontal. Accumulator calculation

The fact is that those installed at the pumping station have a small storage volume, in most cases it does not exceed five liters. It is impossible to say more precisely, the volume of accumulated water depends on the set pressure. A small supply of water causes the electric motor to be switched on / off frequently. This creates discomfort and negatively affects the stator and rotor windings. For a bath, it is quite enough to install an additional hydraulic accumulator for fifty liters.

Step 2. Make a line and dig a trench

Try not to lay the pipe in places where other buildings are planned in the future. Your pipe, of course, is not a gas main, but you should not create additional difficulties for yourself. The depth of the trench is not lower than the level of soil freezing. In order to eliminate the risks of damage to plastic pipes by stones, a sand cushion about 5 centimeters thick should be poured onto the bottom of the trench; on top of the pipes, they are also covered first with sand, and then with earth. If your land does not have stones, you can skip sand protection.

Dig in one of the rings of the well, use a puncher to make a through hole in the ring for the pipe, the hole should be 10 ÷ 20 centimeters above the water level. The dimensions of the hole should allow you to work in it with your hands; before filling the trench with soil, a large hole will be closed with any piece of thick-walled galvanized metal or plastic. Entering the pipeline into the bath depends on the type of foundation, the tape will have to be dug in.

The open section of the pipe from the ground to the floor of the bath must be carefully insulated. There are excellent industrial insulation materials for pipelines, but we recommend strengthening them - making a wooden box around the pipe and filling it with glass wool. The dimensions of the box around the perimeter are at least 50 × 50 centimeters.

Step 3. Measure the water depth in the well

To do this, you need to tie any load to the end of a long rope and lower it into the well until it stops with the bottom. Cut the vertical riser so that the check valve mesh does not reach the bottom 20-30 cm. This is to ensure that the valve is always in the water during seasonal fluctuations in the water level. A slight elevation above the bottom will prevent the mule from being sucked in.

Step 4. Lower the intake pipe into the well

The pump includes a check valve with a strainer, fix it at the end of the pipe section.

Important. Don't buy Chinese plastic check valves. They work no more than a year, low-quality plastic breaks down. To replace the check valve, you will have to dig a trench. It is quite difficult even in summer, but what if a breakdown happens in winter? Responsible manufacturers make these valves from bronze or brass, buy only them.

The plastic pipe can be cut with a metal hacksaw or grinder. Special devices are sold in stores for deburring and chamfering, but you should not buy them. The fact is that they can make a chamfer only if the cut is perfectly perpendicular to the pipe axis, it is impossible to achieve this manually. The chamfer can be easily removed with a sharp knife or done with a grinder from the flat side of the disc. Without a chamfer, the rubber seal of the coupling can be damaged, and even a slight air leak can cause the pump to fail. We'll have to look for the place of suction and change the coupling or O-rings.

The intake vertical pipe is connected to the horizontal connecting square, it is rather inconvenient to do this, you have to push both hands into the hole in the concrete ring of the well. Pay attention that the connection is absolutely tight.

Video - Pump installation

Step 5. Attach a horizontal pipe lying in the trench to the exit of the square

Step 6. The pumping station needs to be insulated

We recommend that you additionally prepare a pit in the ground for it, this will significantly reduce the risks of freezing. The pit should be closed with a tight lid, all surfaces can be upholstered with foam sheets about ten centimeters thick.

The pipe is connected to the pump, the pump is installed in the bath. This completes the external work, you can make the internal piping. For internal wiring, it is better to use plastic pipes; make the connection with a special welding machine.

While the trench is not backfilled, it is necessary to check the operation of the pump. Pour water into it, the water should fill the entire pipeline in the trench and displace the air. This can be quite time consuming. During the first start-up of the pump, the pumping should be facilitated, there may still be air in the pipes, the pump must expel it. Before starting the engine, open the valve from the accumulator, let the water and air leave without pressure. In this way, you will be able to speed up the pumping of the pipeline, completely remove air from the system and reduce the load on the pump.

Important. When laying the pipeline in the trench, try to keep it level along the entire route. Otherwise, air locks will inevitably appear, and it will be difficult to remove them.

Video - Selection, piping and installation of a pump in a well

How to regulate a pumping station

The pump with a hydraulic accumulator can be adjusted to the pressure of the engine on / off. Factory settings do not quite meet the requirements of the bath, they are designed to connect household appliances operating at a water pressure of about 2.2 atm. We recommend reducing the pressure, this will significantly reduce the load on the engine and increase the capacity of the accumulator. How it's done?

1. Remove the terminal block cover, under the cover there are two adjusting bolts with springs. The large one regulates the switch-on pressure, the small one regulates the switch-off pressure of the pump.
2. When turning the bolts, you will hear clicks, which indicate the operation of the mechanical trigger.
3. Adjust the control bolts so that the pump turns on when the pressure drops to about 0.7 atm., And turns off when the pressure rises to 1.2 atm.

We guarantee that such simple changes in the response characteristics will increase the pump's service life by at least one and a half times. In addition, noise during operation will be significantly reduced. Be sure to install an additional water filter before entering the pump.

Video - The first start-up of a pumping station based on a submersible pump

Internal piping

You need to act according to the drawn diagram, do the work slowly. The fact is that after an error is found, the sealed connection will have to be cut off and a new one should be made; for this you need to use additional couplings, and they do not decorate the water supply system. Do not weld all the sections in a row, sometimes you need to skip one connection, weld the next, and then return to the previous one. It is impossible to tell all the solutions in the article, especially without knowing your scheme. Again, we repeat the previous advice - think a few steps or technological steps ahead.

This article will tell you in an accessible form how to make a shower with your own hands in a bath without much difficulty, without having professional skills in this area.

Sooner or later, the question arises about the washing room in the bath. And one of the main problems is how to properly equip the shower room in the bath on your own. Indeed, it is difficult to imagine a modern Russian bath without this sanitary ware, not to mention its beneficial effect on human health during contrasting procedures.

What you need to decide to make a do-it-yourself shower in the bath

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the shower in the bath, you should decide on the following important questions:

1. The purpose of the shower.
2. The location of the shower room in the bath.
3. Cold water supply source.
4. Sewerage outlet.
5. Choice of the type of shower stall or shower tray.
6. Water heating method.
7. Materials for the installation of water supply and sewerage pipes.
8. Interior decoration of the washing room in the bath.

First, let's make some assumption and take into account that the issues regarding the source of cold water supply, the sewerage system and the type of pipes have already been resolved. And if not, then you can familiarize yourself with this in the following thematic articles:

Now we will dwell only on those problems that directly affect the very process of arranging a shower in a bath with our own hands.

Shower purpose

It may seem strange to ask why you need a shower in a bath. However, it should be borne in mind that the bath exists not only in order to wash, but also for the benefit of your health, it is correct to go through everything, including water ones. Dousing with cold water and cold and hot shower no less useful than a visit to the steam room itself, and complement each other deservedly.

In order to fully enjoy the water procedures, you can install a hydromassage shower module, a dousing device in the form of a wooden tub or a shower cabin with all hydromassage devices in the washing room of the bath.

And if it seems too expensive to someone, you can choose a more economical way - to make a shower tray with your own hands and install an ordinary shower mixer there.

The location of the shower room in the bath

The most the best place for a shower in a bath - this is a room adjacent to the steam room. How it will be called, dressing room or washing room, does not matter. The main condition is that it is convenient to take a shower or shower with cold water immediately upon leaving the steam room.

From a technical point of view, the location of the shower room should be optimal in relation to the systems of internal water supply and sewerage in the bath, that is, they should be as compact as possible and have the shortest length of pipelines. For example, if the bath has a toilet, then the shower or the shower tray should be located near the adjacent wall separating these rooms.

Of course, a lot depends on its design. If the shower room is taken to an unreasonably remote place from the main water points, this will lead not only to additional work on laying pipelines, but also to complicating their maintenance.

Choosing the type of shower stall or shower tray

The solution to this issue depends on what material the main structures of the bath are built of - the floor and walls. In addition, personal preferences and desires for decorating a bath cannot be disregarded in accordance with your views on bath design.

If there is a concrete floor in the washing room, then the possibilities for arranging a shower room are practically unlimited. You can easily install a shower cabin you like or make a do-it-yourself pallet of any configuration, most optimally fitting it into the composition of the washing room. Therefore, at the design stage of the bath, it will be better if you provide for a concrete floor in the shower. This will free you from those problems that arise when there is a wooden floor covering.

If the floor has a wooden covering, then only the installation of purchased pallets or shower cabins is possible, although on the Internet you can also find recommendations on how to make a pallet on such an overlap. But we must take into account the fact that the concrete base of the pallet on wooden floor will not have a sufficiently rigid support and can crack over time, making the entire shower tray unusable.

Arrangement of a shower in a bath begins with the choice of a method of heating water (or a type of water heater), which, in turn, depends on whether the bath has electricity. Nowadays, electricity is supplied almost everywhere where private construction is carried out, for example, in summer cottages or other land plots... However, there are cases when there is no electricity. Therefore, when building your bath, you should take into account this important factor and make an appropriate system of cold and hot water supply.

The choice of the method of heating water and the type of water heater

First, consider the option when electricity is not supplied to the bath.

Hot water supply system for a bath without the use of electricity

In this case, hot water can only be obtained from by installing a tank for heating water on it. Alternatively, it is possible to place the tank in another room.

Currently, various heaters are produced, allowing the use of thermal energy from burning wood to heat water. These are ovens with a water tank installed directly on it and with a heat exchanger for heating the passing cold water and storing it in a remote tank in another room.

Unlike stoves with a built-in tank, stoves with a heat exchanger allow you to use hot water to supply it to various water adapters, for example, to a shower or a kitchen sink. An approximate scheme for organizing hot water supply in a bath is as follows:

The principle of operation of such a system is that cold water, getting into the heat exchanger of the sauna stove, heats up and, under the influence of increased pressure, enters the storage tank for hot water, which is located at the highest point of the hot water supply system. After a certain time, the water in the storage tank heats up to the required temperature. When you turn on the taps, for example, a shower, hot water under the influence of internal pressure flows to the shower mixer.

It is recommended to constantly replenish the storage tank with fresh (cold) water during hot water consumption. If the capacity of the storage tank is sufficient for the entire time of visiting the bath, then filling it with fresh water can be done periodically, that is, as it is consumed to a critical level.

A cold water storage tank is well suited for this purpose. If you set it as high as possible, then the hydrostatic pressure created increased level water, will allow the hot water tank to be positioned anywhere. By connecting both tanks with pipelines, there will be a constant replenishment of the hot water storage tank with water as it is consumed. The other pipe from the cold water tank is connected to the main cold water supply pipeline or directly to the draw-off point. This way we get both cold and hot water.

A reasonable question may arise that if there is no electricity in the bath, then how to supply cold water from an external source. For this purpose, you can use a motor pump or, in extreme cases, a hand pump. Do not carry water in buckets!

However, such a system has one significant drawback - this is that you can use hot water only when the sauna stove is heated. But what if, after working at the summer cottage, you want to wash off the dirt or just take a cool shower in the hot season? Use the stove? Is it wise to waste precious time and wood? As in many cases, electricity can help solve this problem.

The use of electricity for hot water supply to the bath

The article shows a diagram of hot and cold water supply for a bath for a shower and toilet, which uses a storage tank with cold water, an electric water heater and a pumping station with a hydraulic accumulator. Water is taken from an external source.

Such a scheme may well be, but by slightly modifying it, you can significantly improve the conditions for using hot water. The fact is that it involves the use of an electric water heater independent of the sauna stove. If a combined electric water heater with a heat exchanger is installed instead of the usual one, then a bath stove can also be used to heat the water.

And for this, in addition to a combined water heater, a wood-burning stove with a heat exchanger is required. By connecting them in one closed loop, the water heated in the heat exchanger of the furnace will act as a heat carrier. To ensure a constant flow of water, a hot water circulation pump, for example, a 25-watt UP 15-14 -80 from Grundfos, is cut into the closed loop circuit.

If a sauna stove is heated, then the water, passing through its heat exchanger, heats up and enters the heat exchanger of the combined water heater, in which it gives up its heat to the cold water in it. Circulating in a closed loop, the water heat carrier heats the water to the required temperature, and also maintains it at a constant level during the operation of the taps.

This system is universal and allows you to use both an electric water heater and a sauna stove to heat water separately, or to simultaneously heat it with both heat sources.

If the water is heated only from the oven heat exchanger, then the combined water heater, disconnected from the electricity, turns into an ordinary storage tank. Conversely, if the stove is not heated, then it will function as a simple electric water heater.

For forced water heating, both heat exchangers can be connected. At the same time, the power consumption will be much less than that of an ordinary electric boiler, since the heat from the sauna stove will also make its feasible contribution.

So, what will such a water heating system give us? Here are several factors that will be beneficial when setting up a shower in a bath:

1. Energy saving.
2. The possibility of heating water between trips to the bathhouse without lighting the heater.
3. No hot water storage tank needed.
4. Installation of a water heater in any convenient place.
5. Selection of the optimal water heating mode.
6. Lack of storage tank in the steam room.
7. Rapid heating of water when the water heater is on and the heater is hot.
8. Ease of installation of the hot water supply system.

In addition to this chapter, a short video on choosing a water heater:

Arrangement of a shower in a bath with your own hands

When the issue of heating the water has been resolved, then it will not be difficult to make a shower in the washing room of the bath. After all, hot water is the main condition for the correct arrangement of any shower. Perhaps someone will manage only with cold water, but this is already something close to extreme conditions, which is unlikely for many to like.

So there is hot water. The question arises of how to equip a place for a shower. It makes no sense to give any recommendations on this topic. It all depends on your choice.

You can install a ready-made shower stall or adapt a purchased shower tray by finishing the adjacent walls with waterproof plastic. And you can make it yourself, for example, as it is said in the article about how, with your own hands.

In any case, during the construction of a bath, a washing room with a shower should be provided in its layout. And in order to avoid problems, the floor in it must be poured with concrete, and not made of wood. Then the possibilities for arrangement and decoration will be unlimited, not to mention the hygienic side of the issue and the operational properties of the shower room, tiled with ceramic tiles.

If the bathhouse is built from a log house, then the question of wall decoration will inevitably arise. Indeed, in order to decorate log walls, one must not only know, but also be able to do it. If you properly sheathe them with waterproof plasterboard, then the shower room can be tiled with ceramic tiles or mosaics in accordance with your idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe design of a modern Russian bath. You can read about how to do this in the article on log walls.

The option of finishing the walls of the washing room with clapboard is possible. Then you will have to give up ceramic tiles and use some kind of waterproof plastic.

In any case, having an idea of ​​how the washing room in the bath should be equipped, making a shower with your own hands will not be difficult.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - installation and connection

Sergey

(buckets) to which water is supplied.

Such a bucket shower for a bath can be bought in a specialized store. There are models in which water is poured from an ordinary bucket, and there are those to which water is supplied from a water supply system. Turning on and off the water is controlled by a float (a device similar to that in the drain tanks).

Bath shower bucket

How to heat water for a shower in a bath

You can heat water for a shower either with the help of electric heaters - an instantaneous or storage water heater, a "wet" heating element, or using a remote tank and a heat exchanger in a wood-burning stove.

Instantaneous water heater for a shower in a bath is a pleasure that is not available to everyone. And it's not about the price, but about the requirements that this equipment makes to both the water supply and the electrical network. An instantaneous water heater operates at a certain cold water pressure. This problem can be solved by installing a pump (its capacity must be at least 8 liters / min). But in any case, the water will be heated only if there is electricity, and there will be no supply of warm water - this is a running water heater. In addition, only a heater with a capacity of no more than 8 kW is connected to the 220V network, which will provide only one draw-off point with warm water. If you need to have two hot water taps, you will need a 13 kW device, and it is powered from a 380 V network. Even if you are satisfied with an eight-kilowatt instantaneous water heater for a shower, then when you turn it on, the voltage in the network will most likely drop decently: in the countryside networks are not uncommon, but neighbors are unlikely to be happy with such a turn.

Storage water heaters for showers are more economical. The power consumed by them is usually 2-3 kW, depending on the volume of the drive, but it is difficult to find a capacity of more than 150 liters. Moreover, such a tank already has decent dimensions, although there are drives of different shapes - horizontal and vertical cylinders, there are also rectangular ones - it is easier to find a place for them, but you still have to screw up your head with its installation. A good option is to install a heater in the attic.

There is another simple way to organize hot water in the bath: a heating element is mounted in the water tank, in the simplest case, a boiler is lowered. There is an outlet from the tank either to a mixer or directly to a shower head with a tap or mixer. When directly connecting a tank with warm water to a shower head, you need to consider a temperature control system so as not to burn yourself with overheated water.

These are, in general, all options for an "electric" shower for a bath. Read more about how to choose a water heater for a bath.

Important! When using electrical heating elements, never forget about electrical safety. Even a new heating element or a boiler can "punch" on the body.

There is also a typical "bath" way: to heat the water in the tank using the heat from a burning stove (). There is a method of the previous years - wood-fired titanium, which, nevertheless, is successfully used today. Here is an effective, working, real way to organize a shower in a bath without using electricity.

Scheme of arrangement of a shower in a bath or sauna

This scheme, with some alterations, will be workable both when using a remote water tank, in which water is heated from a heat exchanger in a metal or brick oven, and with a tank on a pipe (installed at a sufficient height). In general, the circuit is good. Instead of a hand pump, you can install an electric one, but then the circuit will work only if there is a power supply.

We chose a method to heat the water, but now it is necessary that cold and hot water be supplied to the mixers. If the hot water tank is not high, pumps are provided to increase the water pressure to provide the required pressure in the system. Shower pumps can be of several types:

• Small ones are more expensive. But they have protective automatics that will monitor the pressure in the system (it will turn off if there is a power failure, etc.).
• Boost pumps. They also turn on automatically when the pressure in the system drops, but the type of pump and its characteristics for each water supply system must be selected separately. Their disadvantage is that if there is no pressure accumulator in the system, when the pump is turned on / off, the water pressure "jumps" significantly.
• Garden pumps. The cheapest option, but they do not have any automation, therefore, you need to turn them on / off manually.

If possible, it is easier to install a cold and hot water tank in the bathhouse on the second floor or in the attic and not bother with pumps, which are not easy to find for hot water.

Option for installing the water tank at a height higher than the ceiling height

Shower cubicle and drain

There are many options for a shower cubicle: from a simple pipe mounted into the walls, along which a waterproof curtain "rides" on rings, to an ultra-modern (or not super) shower cubicle. What are the shower cabins, read. From experience we can say that if a booth is installed in a bathhouse, then the most primitive one is walls, a door and a pallet, and in principle, more is not needed. This is an option for those who do not want to bother with waterproofing adjacent walls and like quick solutions.

Bath shower with titanium

In general, if a separate small room is not provided for when planning a shower, you can fence off a part of the washing compartment where it should be organized. If there is no drain, you will have to arrange it.

If you plan to install a pallet, it requires a separate concrete base with a connected drain pipe. The foundation is necessary so that under the weight of a person the plastic of the pallet does not "walk", since most of the bath showers contain plastic products - they are inexpensive and, if properly installed, are durable enough, and plastic bends under the weight of even a not very large person.

If a pallet is not provided, and the floor is wooden, you need to protect it from water. For this, galvanized metal is laid on the area where the shower stall will be arranged, the joints of the sheets are carefully sealed with silicone sealant (for example). Reinforcement for the screed is laid on the metal with a slope towards the drain, everything is filled with cement mortar. On a fresh solution (while maintaining the slope), and its joints are also well coated with silicone. Instead of galvanized metal, modern waterproofing films can be used. In this case, they must be reinforced.

If the walls in the shower stall are wooden, they need protection from water. You can protect them with ceramic tiles, plastic panels, or simply lay sheets of plastic of a suitable size, sealing the joints with the same silicone. Under any type of finish, it is also advisable to lay a layer of waterproofing. In the simplest case, it is a plastic film, which is attached to the walls with staples from a construction stippler or planks and nails, and it is advisable to seal the resulting holes with reinforced tape.

Plastic panels for a shower are a budget option for protecting walls in a shower stall, everyone can handle the installation. At the first stage, metal profiles are attached to the walls, from which the frame-lathing of the walls is assembled. Plastic panels are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws with a wide head, which are connected to one another with a lock. The connection is tight (you just need to be careful not to damage the rather fragile edges of the locks). In the corners of the outer and inner corners, special corners are used, which are sold in the same place as the panels, the baseboards are strengthened at the top and bottom. Indeed, nothing complicated, but the look is like a monolithic wall and protection from water is almost 100%.

The general principles of how to make a shower in a bath are outlined, and how to do it, everyone decides for himself. There are just a lot of options here, because you can just hang up a shower bucket and overturn it, or build a full-fledged shower cubicle with automatic hot water supply. Below are real photos of the shower in the bath. Maybe you will find an idea for yourself ...

Pouring device + shower