Swampy soil on the site is a problem for its owners. When buying a plot, you can determine the excess moisture by the presence of reeds, sedges, rushes. Subsequently, the owners are faced with unpleasant fumes, mosquitoes, poor growth of garden plants. Plants disappear due to insufficient oxygen access to the roots, their decay, exposure to toxic products (nitrates, acids, aluminum salts) formed in the swampy ground.

It is costly to build a house on swampy land. We have to build a deep pile foundation.

All these troubles can be eliminated when draining the territory. There is a solution to the problem, and you can try to get rid of excess moisture yourself. The key to success is understanding the nature of the wetland area.

Different situations, different solutions

It is sometimes difficult for a specialist to determine the cause of the formation of a swamp. In this situation, it is important to familiarize yourself with the surroundings, inspect the lands of neighbors. Excessive soil moisture usually has two main reasons:

1. Placing the allotment in the bottom of the reservoir, which leads to the location of groundwater quite close to the surface. This reason is rarely confirmed, since few people dare to consciously purchase land in the swamp.
2. Disruption of natural water flow as a result of heavy rainfall. This problem is associated with several factors - the location of the site below the neighboring ones (water after rains constantly flows to it), the location close to the surface of a layer of viscous clay, or the presence of a source feeding the swamp.

In each case there is a solution to the problem, tested by more than one generation of farmers. An analysis of the situation on the site will allow you to decide which of the drainage methods to use.

High groundwater table

Drainage of surface-located groundwater ("top water") will allow closed-type drainage, performed at a sufficient depth. Such drainage is installed along the perimeter of the site, as well as throughout its territory. With abundant waters, when drainage into the deep layers of the soil does not lead to a result, a drainage well and a pump are needed that can constantly pump out water and drain it outside the territory.

Clay soil

Soil with high content clay is poorly permeable to moisture, and the earth remains damp for a long time after rain and melting snow. If, at the same time, the land plot is located at an angle, the inflow of water comes from the above ground surface. The optimal solution in such a situation is the use of filling and open ditches for the accumulation and removal of moisture into the depths of the earth.

The organization of closed drainage is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the surface of the earth is far from always justified.

Marshland

An optimal but very costly solution is to raise the ground level and make a drainage ditch along the perimeter. Before draining the site, it is important to consider plans for the use of the area and determine the depth of the drainage. With seasonal waterlogging of the area, you can dig a ditch in the lowest part of the site. In addition to it, it is necessary to make open drainage channels, often located throughout the entire territory. The sloping area should be protected from slipping of the ground by plants or geomats.

The location of the allotment in the lowlands

Waterlogging can be dealt with using a pump and a drainage well. If it is appropriate and possible, the problem will be solved by a reservoir in the lowest part of the allotment and a closed drainage performed over its entire area. Drainage must be carried out to a state in which the destruction of the foundations of buildings will not occur, and it will be possible for plants to develop.

Learn more about dehumidification methods

The allotment of land can be drained in various ways of reclamation. Before choosing the right one, you should consider the following factors:

• water resistance of the soil, its composition;
• direction and level of groundwater location;
• buildings in the garden;
• the height by which you want to lower the groundwater level.

To raise the level of the surface of the allotment will allow the delivery of fresh fertile soil. If the land is plowed, it will mix with the viscous and dense swampy soil, and there will be an opportunity to grow crops in the garden. Land cultivated in this way does not require fertilization for the next several years. However, the swamp is a stable ecosystem, so it cannot be ruled out that it will return to its original form over time.

Sand application

If you add sand in the same proportion to the soil of the site, the quality of the land improves and the air exchange increases. With the additional introduction of humus, it is possible to cultivate vegetables, berries, greens on the ground. Adding sand to swampy soil creates more effective ways reclamation. The method is effective on its own if applied on clay soils with a slight excess of surface water.

Drainage

Arranging a drainage system is the most effective way to drain surface water for a long time. To create it, plastic pipes with small diameter holes in the walls are used. First, it is necessary to wrap pipes with holes with geotextiles in 1-3 layers, depending on the size of the soil particles. They are placed in pre-prepared channels to the following depth:

• for clay soils - 65-75cm;
• for loams - 70-90cm;
• for sandy areas - up to 1m.

Open and closed ditches

Open drainage ditches will remove excess water from the soil surface. They are made with beveled edges at an angle of 20 degrees. The disadvantage of this method is rapid shedding, contamination of the outflow with leaves, debris, stagnant water. Such drainage structures should be regularly cleaned with a shovel. Open ditch ditches are not used in areas with sandy soil, as the sand is quickly washed out and drainage becomes ineffective. It is convenient to place an open drainage ditch on an area along the fence, where it does not interfere with anyone.

Closed drainage ditches are deeply dug trenches covered with sand and disguised as garden paths. They have an aesthetic appearance, the soil in them does not collapse, the water inside does not bloom.

For the system to function properly, dug trenches are taken into a well or dug up to a layer of sand that will absorb moisture. If the channels become clogged, it will be difficult to clean with primer.

Raised beds

When planning to cultivate greens, vegetables, strawberries, owners of waterlogged plots are building high beds. Excess moisture is collected between the beds, and areas of land with crops become drier. With the right approach, it is possible to grow crops even in areas with excess water. This is convinced by the photos of vegetable gardens in Holland, shrouded in a network of canals. Such conditions allow you to grow anything you want.

Digging a pond or well

The decorative pond will collect excess moisture and allow it to gradually evaporate. In this case, the territory of the garden will become noticeably drier, and the pond itself will decorate the landscape. The effectiveness of this method is convinced by a clear example - the Cross Canal, built for the same purpose in the park of Versailles.

Wells are as efficient as ditches. To create them, holes are dug at the lowest points of the site, which are covered with rubble or sand. Their diameter in the lower part is half a meter, in the upper part - two meters, and their length is about one meter. After rain or melting snow, excess moisture gradually flows into them.

Planting moisture-loving trees

Moisture-loving trees help rid the boggy garden of excess water. Weeping willows, alder and birches feel good here. Such trees evaporate excess liquid through the leaves. Willows and birches dry out wetlands, but it will take several years for sufficient drainage. You can also cultivate cranberries, blueberries, viburnum. When the territory becomes drier, you should move on to growing your favorite plants.

Usually reeds and sedges grow in swampy areas. To combat them, you should drain the area in a suitable way, for example, by draining excess moisture into the nearest stream. These plants have a powerful root system, and only by removing it, you can avoid new growth for a certain time. To do this, you will have to dig deep holes with your own hands, remove each root, and lay roofing material on the bottom of the holes. Reed seeds spread well and if the ground stays wet the problem will return.

Extreme measures

If none of the aforementioned reclamation methods gave the desired result, or you don't want to wait, you can invite specialists. With powerful pumps, they quickly pump out unnecessary moisture, and the effect will be visible within a day. However, this is an expensive service, and the problem of waterlogging may return over time.

When it was not possible to win in the struggle for dry soil, one can put up with it and beat the excessive moisture of the earth. To do this, you can equip a pond by surrounding it with plants that are demanding on moisture.

In humid conditions, blueberries, viburnum, cranberries, marsh iris, mint, buttercups, thuja, heather grow well. A good addition would be girlish grapes, lush ferns, calla lilies, some varieties of orchid plants.

There are many methods of dealing with excess moisture in the garden. However, when none of them helped, you have to reconcile and create your own corner of nature. The owner of a swampy allotment can successfully not only grow garden crops and flowers, but also build a house. There are many proven solutions for this.

Each summer cottage owner is well aware of some of the difficulties that can cause a lot of trouble. A large army of pests destroys crops, the land loses its fertile properties, various diseases affect plants, and so on, there are many to enumerate. Within the framework of this article, we will consider such a case when a low groundwater level is observed at a summer cottage. This can negatively affect vegetation, which begins to rot and die.

Groundwater on the site can undermine the foundation of the house and outbuildings. Over time, this will cause the foundation to collapse. Due to the large amount of groundwater, the acidity in the soil increases.

Such a nuisance can be eliminated only when carrying out dehumidification, which will be discussed. Such an event can be carried out independently or, in extreme cases, by contacting specialists.

In order to understand whether you are ready to take on the work of draining the site, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following video:

Ways to drain the site

Often, do-it-yourself drainage can be done in one of two ways:

1. arrange drainage;
2. use moisture-loving plants.

However, in order to understand how to drain the area with your own hands, and choose the best way to solve the problem, you need to correctly assess the situation. In some cases, excess moisture cannot leave due to the insufficient angle of inclination of the site. Then the solution to the problem of shallow groundwater is to form the required slope (optimally 2-3%). This can entail certain costs, since you need to hire a car to bring up the required amount of land.

But if there is heavy clay soil on the site, then the backfill probably will not be possible to carry out. In this case, you can lay a whole drainage system with your own hands. It is only worth considering that such an event will require certain knowledge and skills, as well as correct calculation and a good plan.

Proper drainage at the site requires a plan

There are many companies with extensive experience in areas with a large amount of groundwater and who can take over all the work. But here it all depends on the size of the budget. And if someone cannot afford the services of specialists, then all that remains is to do everything with their own hands. Perhaps the method using plants will be more acceptable.

Drainage system

This method is an effective means of protecting against groundwater. It is quite difficult to make such a system on your own, but doable, you just need to prepare well.

The simplest drainage consists of a receiving network where water will flow and a water intake. As the latter, you can arrange an artificial reservoir with your own hands, which will serve for irrigation or as a decoration.

Training

Preparatory work involves the correct calculation of the slope and the place for the sump. It is also necessary to draw up a diagram of the entire site, which will allow you to determine the amount of material required:

• pipes;
• couplings;
• tees;
• corners;
• stubs.

In addition, you need to take care of the stocks of crushed stone, clay and sand.

Geotextiles are very popular in the improvement of many summer cottages. Although it has existed on the market not so long ago, it has managed to establish itself as a fairly practical material.

But technologies do not stand still, and already now many companies are producing corrugated drainage pipes made of plastic, which can seriously compete.

Mounting

After the preparatory stage, you can proceed directly to the installation of the drainage system with your own hands.

To do this, the first step is to dig a trench to a certain depth and with the desired slope angle. The width of the trench depends on the size of the pipes used, the composition of the soil and its depth. Usually it is 30-70 cm. The bottom of the ditch must be tamped well, then covered with a layer of clay, which is also tamped well. This will avoid deformation of the trench.

On top of the clay, sand should be laid in a thin layer, and drainage pipes will already be laid on it, and at a certain angle (2-3%). This will allow the water to drain naturally without stagnation after heavy rains. Having laid the pipes along the entire length of the trench, you can connect them to each other using couplings.

As for the water intake, then you should carry out high-quality waterproofing with your own hands, and also provide for several compartments. From time to time it will be necessary to pump out water from them. After all the pipes are connected, they can already be covered with sand, and then with crushed stone of a coarse fraction with a layer of 20-30 cm. After that, everything can be covered with earth in several layers, each of which must be well tamped.

It is better to lay such a drainage system before building a house. Otherwise, a trench is also dug around the house, but with a slightly deeper depth (5-10 cm below the base of the foundation).

Solving the problem with plants

An alternative way of draining groundwater is to plant moisture-loving plants. Only in this case it is necessary to take into account that not any root system can be suitable. Plants with taproots will rot because too much water pressure will simply cut off the oxygen supply. Which will lead to death as a result.

Therefore, you should choose those plants that have a fibrous root system, and these are:

• Birch tree;
• maple.

In addition, there are many beautiful species of these plants, which will not only allow you to absorb excess moisture, but also significantly transform your country cottage area.

Coniferous trees (spruce) will also help solve the issue of drainage. Their roots are located close to the surface of the earth. Alder and poplar feel great in the water, but not every summer resident decides to plant them, since such trees do not differ in decorativeness. In addition, poplar fluff can cause allergies and fires.

Shrubs can also be effective in removing excess moisture.

You can create a whole hedge from shrubs such as:

• hawthorn;
• rose hip;
• spirea;
• bladderworm;
• irga.

Fruit trees do not grow well in highly moistened soil, but if there is a need for them, then it is worth choosing varieties with a superficial location of the roots. And for planting these plants, small hills with a height of 50-100 cm are needed.

In general, the drainage of the suburban area can be done independently, even if it is not as easy as it might seem. It will take a lot of effort and time, but the result is worth it, considering that all this is being done for the good of your family.

The problem for many landowners is excess water. Even on highlands and in fairly dry places in spring, melt water can flood the earth, albeit for a short time, but they will have time to bring a fair amount of harm to the country house. You can deal with this scourge in several ways, both independently and by contacting professionals.

How to remove excess water from the area? Most often, two methods are used - changing the level and composition of the earth or planting plants that absorb a lot of moisture. The suburban area can be swampy due to the relief, the insufficient slope prevents the water from leaving the site on its own. In this case, doing it correctly will help. Having calculated where and what slope should be, with the help of the brought land, you can create it artificially... If the cottage is located in a lowland, the site must also be raised and leveled. This method is one of the easiest, now it is possible to order machines with land, moreover, in this way you can increase the fertility of the territory.

The most acceptable way is to plant moisture-loving plants. In no case should you plant plants with a tap root system, increased amount water exerts pressure, cuts off oxygen to the roots, and they begin to rot. It is best to choose trees with a fibrous root system, such as oaks, birches, willows and maples. They will absorb excess water, and thanks to the modern large selection of species of these trees, in this way you can transform the summer cottage. A good and simple option is to dig a ditch, and, if desired, a pond, which will not only help to put the site in order, but also play an aesthetic role. This is not the most effective, but the most affordable method that even owners of small territories with a house in the middle can use.

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Preparatory work on the drainage device

A good way to remove water from the site is drainage, it will remove surface moisture, protect the basement and foundation from groundwater, thereby increasing the life of all buildings in the country. But it is problematic to install this system on your own. First of all, you need to correctly calculate the slopes, and take care of the place for the catchment. Drainage is required if it is about 1 m, and it is advisable to lay it before the construction of the house, taking into account its future location and, if any engineering networks are planned, then before they are carried out.

Then all the necessary materials, their quantity are calculated according to the scheme, pipes, tees, corners, couplings, plugs, saws for cutting pipes are purchased, and crushed stone and sand are prepared. Usually, if the drainage is installed by professionals, then they have all the tools, but if the system is installed on their own, then they will have to be found or bought. The most demanded material now is geotextile, it appeared on the market quite recently, but has already become firmly entrenched due to its easy connection method and good characteristics. Because the suburban construction becomes more and more popular, and drainage, accordingly, becomes a profitable business, new pipes are produced. Today, geotextiles have begun to replace corrugated plastic drainage pipes.

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Drainage system installation

After the preparatory work begins. To do this, they dig a trench of the required depth, observing the desired slope, usually a construction level is used to check it, and if it is not there, and the drainage is installed independently, then two glass tubes connected with a rubber hose are taken. They are filled with water, and the water level in them, according to the physical laws of communicating vessels, will be at the same level as the horizon. This is the easiest way to lay the trenches evenly, and also determine how smooth the site itself is.

Trenches are usually made in widths from 30 to 70 cm, depending on the composition of the earth, the depth of the trench and the diameter of the pipe.

Drainage pipes are always laid with a slope of 2-3%, this guarantees that the water will leave at an optimal speed - the tank will not overflow and the summer cottage will not dry out. If the drainage pipes are installed horizontally and evenly, moisture will stagnate, and during heavy rains and an increase in the water level in the sump, the reverse process may occur, and all the water will flow into the trenches. The bottom of the trench is made similar to a tray, tamped, smoothed, covered with mint clay, tamped again, giving the final shape. This will help the trench to stay in position and not deform. Clay from above is covered with a thin layer of sand, which serves as a shock absorber, and pipes are laid on it.

After all the pipes are laid, they are connected to each other using couplings, thereby forming a single collector. Through it, an excess of water with a flow of 2 m / s will be sent to the reservoir. The water collector must necessarily be equipped with waterproofing, have strong walls and preferably several compartments, from which it is periodically necessary to pump out. Increasing the number of compartments will help prevent flooding in the event of a drainage break. There is a way to avoid frequent accidents and to properly control the system operation process. It consists in installing drainage wells at the junction of the collector with drainage elements, if the section is large and the sum of the length of the system is impressive, then one or two more wells can be put on the turns of the pipes. These precautions are necessary for flushing in the event of a blockage. The walls of the wells are made higher, raising them to the upper layer of the earth, so that, if necessary, it is easier to get to them, so that the wells themselves do not clog up and they are not washed away with earth, they are put on tightly fitting rubberized covers.

When the entire drainage system is installed, the pipes are covered with sand, then a layer of 20-30 cm of coarse gravel is laid. If pipe fasteners were used, fixed on the walls of the trench, then they are covered with overlapping rubble. After that, all the pits are covered with soil, tamping in layers. It may happen that the country house has already been built, and the amount of water is not regulated, then the drainage is done in almost the same way, only the depth of pipe laying changes. Trenches are dug around the house 5-10 cm below the depth of the foundation to protect it from water washout and destruction.

The condition of the tracks in the country in the spring and the degree of footwear pollution are indicators of the condition of the drainage system on your land plot. Stagnant puddles do not indicate the amount of snow in winter or precipitation, but indicate your carelessness. After a year or two, excess water will affect bald spots on the lawn, and decaying tree roots. Drainage work not done on time will definitely lead to the inevitability of the process of digging trenches, replanting plants and redecorating landscape design.

The draining system on the site should be one of the first on the to-do list for its arrangement. The result of reclamation will be:

• Dry ground in previously swampy areas;
• Will disappear foundation erosion threat at home;
• The problem will become irrelevant washing out winter and garden plantings;
• Will decrease acidity of the soil;

Reasons for water retention

The main factors affecting the degree of flooding of the site are:

• swampy area;
• groundwater.

You yourself can determine the level of groundwater flow digging a hole. If water does not leave the two-meter hole in summer, it can be stated that water is close to the surface. Another reason for excessive soil moisture can be the composition of the soil: clay or peat bogs.

Methods for draining a summer cottage

Today, homeowners know two methods of dehumidification:

1. Linear system... Its purpose is to prevent the accumulation and stagnation of water on the roofs, their diversion beyond the boundaries of the site using gutters. It is also relevant for combining with the deep method, and does not require special implementation measures.
2. Diversion system or deep drainage... The method involves laying underground channels, laying pipes and a step-by-step sequence of works.

Organization of surface drainage

Before you start draining, you need to deal with the natural slope of the terrain. In the absence of a topographic plan, track in which direction the water is running. Consider yourself lucky if water rushes into the street, although this fact does not negate the presence of a ditch in front of the house, in which parallel drains from the garden and vegetable garden are connected. It is imperative to separate the streams from the garden, since the water noticeably washes away centimeters of useful soil.

You can provide a slope in such ways as:

• Use gutter made with a structurally raised part;
• Take advantage of the reception step sequence when raising the height of the ground;

Reclamation begins with draining stagnant puddles near the house. The system implies dug trenches in low areas or around the perimeter of the entire area. Pits are dug 0.5 meters wide and almost 1 meter deep. The walls of the cuvettes are formed at a certain angle of 35 degrees. Melt or rainwater moves along the diversion water intake branches into the central ditch, and flows into the storm sewer with a spillway, relative to the degree aspiration of the relief.

In the case of laying ditches on the plain, the waste ditch will take the main load on itself, which will affect on decreasing water level next to the site.

The clearly marked slope of the terrain towards the street contributes to drainage. For this, drainage lines follow direct outward, where a transverse trench was dug, containing the release of water from the site into the storm sewer. In the case of the opposite direction, the street transverse trench is dug parallel to the fence, and the longitudinal line is slightly brought out beyond the end of the section.

Stormwater and backfill

When the drainage system rushes inward, it is necessary to build storm drains, discharging drains into containers. Their careful organization will already allow half of the problem of water drainage to be solved. The storm drain consists of:

• gutters;

systems of pipes for drains and sewerage.

Large storage tanks for water, for example, barrels or special wells, can act as reservoirs. Its depth is determined by the length of the bend of the drain pipe. The structure from above is supposed to be tightened with a fine mesh and sand traps to avoid clogging. As the well is filled, the liquid is pumped out or several storage points are taken out into a common pipe mounted at an inclination of 30 degrees, through which water flows into street ditches. In special cases, the well is equipped with a vibration pump. Mechanism works in supportive mode, and monitors the level of water accumulation. Usually filled tanks serve as a source for irrigation in the heat.

The trench highways near the house look ugly, and the corners quickly crumble, and the trench is shallow. For this reason, the owners are trying to strengthen the structures in different ways, and often use crushed stone consisting of 2 stages:

1. The bottom of the ditch is filled up large rubble, and on top - a fine fraction.
2. Stacked on crushed stone turf.

Dumping stops soil mobility, but the efficiency of the system decreases. An alternative to dumping is concrete or plastic drainage trays. They pave the ditch with them to support the walls, and the metal gratings laid on top protect it from debris. They quickly overgrow with grass and become an extension of the lawn. The prefabricated structure is durable, reliable and especially suitable for those who are at risk of water penetration into the cellar.

It is important to remember! Lime crushed stone pressed... Water does not pass through such a monolith. The simplest technique for owners of small allotments is open drainage. In the event of its unsuccessful location on a hillock, water will flow into the site in streams. Dig a hole along the site - and the water will go down the river. Channel usually sowed with grass.

The principle of deep drainage

Allotted land in a lowland or next to a reservoir is due to excessive moisture saturation, and simple reclamation techniques are no longer enough. Instead of trenches, it is necessary lay drains(perforated pipes) and insulating materials.

Scheme deep drainage looks like this:

1. Water enters the storage systems.
2. Having filled the volume, it flows into the main pipe.
3. Moves to the well.
4. Discharged into a storm sewer or other water intake (river, ditch).

An important point: The mains must pass below the location of the groundwater table. To determine the level, you will have to contact the surveyors.

If we are not talking about protecting the foundation, it is permissible to simplify the course of work, and place structures in the ground, based on general calculations:

• with the mineral composition of the soil, the depth of the cuvette reaches up to 1.5 m;
• and the parameters for the flower garden vary in values 0.5 -0.8 m;
• for garden trees - up to 1.5 m, forest species - 0.9 m.

In peat soil, the dug trench should correspond to 1-1.6 m. The figures are due to the rapid subsidence of the earth.

Polymer materials are used for land reclamation. perforated pipes with a grid of holes of 1.5 - up to 5 mm. Certain grades are equipped with a filter sieve to prevent small particles from clogging. To purchase the desired product, design calculations should be carried out, which mean the degree of saturation with water, the type of soil, etc. Due to the high cost of services, homeowners buy pipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

Installation of drainage on site

It is advisable to use a spillage of geotextiles, which resists mixing of the lower and upper layers.

The purpose of the drainage well is to clean, flush pipes with water flows and control the entire system. Bulky reinforced concrete rings are inserted into the dug hole, but at a depth of up to 3 meters, plastic pipes with a diameter of up to 500 mm will fit. Round corrugated versions are also available. But, any types of pipes involved will have to be additionally flushed - once every three years, with a hose through the manifold.

Wells are placed along the trench, distancing themselves from the neighboring structure with an interval of 50 m. According to the rules, they must be mounted at turns and bows of the pits.

The result of competent drainage is an imperceptible, functioning system, anti-washout soil, and providing growth to plants. In addition, the completed complex will provide stability and the initial appearance of the sidewalk paths, since the soil swelling is prevented.

Dacha drainage video

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after the snow melts do not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system necessary?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and draining ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, swelling and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation of moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how much your site needs drainage, a visual inspection will be required. Pay attention to whether the area is heated after the snow melts, how quickly the water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is a direct evidence of soil oversaturation with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high groundwater table;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• a large amount of precipitation falls at the site of the site.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources, their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and suburban areas, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining the water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

The grates protect the open drainage system from the ingress of large debris

The surface drainage system is built over the area of ​​the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Point - in some sources it is referred to as local drainage. It is used to collect and drain water from a specific place on the site. The main area of ​​application is dehumidification of areas under gutters, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of ​​the location of containers and taps for irrigation. It is often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid in compliance with the slope in the direction of the flow of water that enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of the structure, the pipes must be laid below the depth of its occurrence. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on their depth and the texture of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil, under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book "Drainage of Land for Gardens" by A.M.Dumbliauskas.

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench to give a slope. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 lm. Of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 m is observed.

When installing a long drainage system, a minimum slope should be observed along the entire length of the drainage line. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope norms. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a steep slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest ways with instructions

In order to independently carry out dehumidification land plot through the drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare the tool and place for the work.

Surface drainage of the suburban area

Open surface drainage is a versatile solution for draining small suburban areas. For example, for typical plots with an area of ​​6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a herringbone-shaped drainage line. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at a summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, you will need to prepare gravel of fraction 20-40, geotextile, edged bar or board 2-3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage at the summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage line. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will worsen, etc. But this approach is more time consuming and requires the ability to work with a concrete mixture.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. The deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

1. According to the project plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will be discharged into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the level of soil freezing. For the Northwest region, this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is being dug along the perimeter and area of ​​the site up to 1 m deep. The trench width is at least 30 cm. All horizontal trench sections are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of the surface. To check the quality of the runoff, trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope increases towards the drainage well.

   A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filtering wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer

4. Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. Layer thickness - 10 cm. Geotextile is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50-60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. Modular inspection chambers are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of waste water. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well branch pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. For this, a large volume of water is drained through the drains. If the water drains quickly and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to look for and fix the problem.
7. On top of the drainage pipes, a 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain the site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water on the site are not always associated with high level groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold are formed on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods for draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550-600 rubles. 10-12 m 3 of soil is enough for a plot of 6 acres.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The construction of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the most in a simple way drainage of the suburban area. Despite its general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with the large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Trenching works around the perimeter and area of ​​the site include the following:

If desired, the second layer of rubble can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage underneath the sod layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often water stagnation is not associated with blockage at all. An insufficient slope does not ensure a constant and even discharge of the accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or hose with a strong pressure of water

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drain. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other end there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load in the place of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a wire rope with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During cleaning, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself drainage of the site

Over-saturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.