It was with cauliflower that I started my baby's first feeding. This hypoallergenic vegetable is dearly loved in Russia, therefore it is grown everywhere. The culture was brought to us from Western Europe about 200 years ago. - an annual plant, second only in popularity. The inflorescence in the form of a head can be white, yellow, purple.

Cauliflower can be frozen, pickled,; or . Or just store it in the basement to please yourself and guests with fresh cauliflower for the New Year holidays.

Cauliflower predecessors can be:

• culture.

It is not recommended to use it for growing a garden bed after its relatives: You can grow cauliflower in a seedling and non-seedling way. For residents of the middle lane, cultivation through seedlings is more suitable, and for the southern regions - sowing directly into the ground.

Sowing in open ground (seedless method)

In early May, you need to sow seeds in a moistened ridge, planting them to a depth of about 2 cm. In July, the first heads appear.

Growing cauliflower seedlings

The stages of caring for cauliflower seedlings are almost the same, so I will focus only on important features:

• cauliflower has a poorly developed root system, therefore, when growing seedlings in a common box (about 6 days before planting), the earth is cut into squares so that the seedling forms a branched root system;
• optimal - sow cauliflower seeds immediately in separate pots;
• remember: the earlier you plant the seedlings in open ground, the older they should be.

Dates of sowing seeds for seedlings

The best option is to calculate the sowing time individually for each variety (hybrid). You can learn how to do this in the article. Therefore, I will indicate only approximate dates:

• early - from the beginning to the end of March;
• averages - from tenths of April to 12 May;
• late - from mid-May to June 10.

Age of cauliflower seedlings before planting:

• for early varieties - about 60 days;
• for medium - about 40 days;
• for late - about 35 days;

Dates for planting seedlings in open ground:

• early - from late April to mid-May;
• medium early - from mid-May to mid-June;
• late - from early to mid-July.

Many summer residents grow seedlings of different times in order to get a kind of conveyor belt of young cauliflower over the summer.

Cauliflower care

For the normal development of cauliflower, the best temperature is from +16 ... + 25 ° С. At very high temperatures and dry soil, the quality of the crop deteriorates. To prevent the cauliflower from blooming ahead of time, shade it.

As soon as the heads appear, they will also need to be shaded, for this, break the side leaves a little so that they are adjacent to each other. In the article you can see how our reader cleverly solved this problem -.

Watering

Due to the specifics of the root system, cauliflower needs a regular one (with a lack of moisture, yield decreases). To retain moisture in the soil for a longer period, after watering, you need to loosen the soil to a depth of about 6 cm, or even better - it.

Fertilization

A very important point for the good development of cauliflower. When I just started growing seedlings, I read the advice that for this crop it is necessary to increase the concentration of fertilizers by 1.5 times. But for some reason I could not grow the cabbage that I would like to see on my site. So I just added one more feeding, leaving the dose unchanged. That is, the older the seedlings, the more fertilizing they have: for a 60-day seedling it took 4-5, for a 30-day one - only 2.

First feeding
It is introduced even when planting seedlings (after 2 weeks), usually in the form of mineral fertilizers and liquid mullein.

Second feeding
After a couple of weeks, add wood ash (I add about a glass) and (mineral fertilizer).

Third feeding
When the cauliflower head begins to form, add ammonium nitrate (for 10 liters about 30 g), about 80 g and about 20 g (for the same amount of water).

You can choose the necessary fertilizers for feeding cauliflower in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. ...

Varieties and hybrids of cauliflower

To date, a considerable number of varieties and hybrids of cauliflower with different (from early to late) ripening periods have been bred, with a very exotic color of the heads - yellow, orange, light green, purple.

The cauliflower of early (with a short growing season) varieties have dense heads, closely surrounded by leaves (which are somewhat shorter than those of middle and late ripening varieties).

Middle and late varieties differ in that the leaves in the rosette are longer, the formation of the head occurs at a temperature of + 20 ° C.

Early varieties and hybrids

(growing season 80-110 days)

"Summer resident"

From the moment of emergence to harvest, it will take about 100 days.

Cauliflower variety"Summer resident"

The head is cream-white, rounded flattened, weighing about 1 kg. The variety is suitable for freezing and fresh consumption, rich in sugars and ascorbic acid.

"Amphora F1"

Strictly speaking, this is an early ripe hybrid of cauliflower and broccoli called Romanesco. Unusual heads of light green color and good density.

Cauliflower "Amphora F1"

The mass of such a head of cabbage is about 2 kg. Suitable for freezing, fresh consumption. And here is a review from our expert.

"Snowdrift"

It should take about 96 days from germination to technical maturity of this variety.

Cauliflower variety"Snowdrift"

Very productive. The heads are round, dense, weighing about 1 kg, the white color of the heads does not turn yellow during storage. Recommended for freezing. Excellent taste, high sugar and ascorbic acid content.

You can find a large assortment of varieties and hybrids of cauliflower of various ripening periods in our catalog, which combines offers from various garden online stores.

As you know, cauliflower has a more delicate and delicate taste than white cabbage, but in this regard, and the process of its cultivation is more complicated and laborious.

Cauliflower is a popular staple, but it takes effort to grow it

It will be difficult for a beginner to master the cultivation of cauliflower as it takes some knowledge to get a good planting.

It is impossible to find cauliflower in nature. It is believed that it was obtained by breeding from broccoli, and then, was brought to white, which makes it look like a white cabbage. Therefore, now, most people know how to distinguish cauliflower from white cabbage.

Botanical description

The root system of such a cabbage is in the upper layer of the soil, and if the plants are immediately planted in the garden, then the roots of this vegetable will be much stronger than those that are planted with seeds.

The weight of each head of cauliflower can fluctuate, and reach 2-3 kg. Cauliflower has a variety of shapes. Usually this:

• round;
• flat;
• conical.

The color of cauliflower can be different, it all depends on the variety of seeds and on the sun, but most often it is either yellow or white, like white cabbage.

White is the most popular variety of cauliflower

Features of a biological nature

If we compare cauliflower with other species, then it is the most demanding in terms of planting and growing conditions. Therefore, when summer residents are wondering how to grow cauliflower, they have to carry out numerous collection of information. After all, otherwise, if you do not follow the requirements that are needed for the cabbage to grow good, beautiful, large and tasty, nothing will work out, and the seeds will be wasted.

When choosing the best time for planting, it must be borne in mind that cabbage does not like strong temperature fluctuations, as well as conditions of high humidity do not have a positive effect at every stage of its cultivation.

It is important to understand that cauliflower, like any other plant, needs care.

Cauliflower is very demanding on growing conditions

Growing process

First stage

Planting cauliflower requires some preparation. First, you need to prepare a mixture that will nourish the cauliflower seeds.

There are two options here: you can immediately purchase a ready-made nutritional mixture, then you definitely won't have to doubt the quality, or you can cook it yourself. When the mixture is prepared on its own, it is necessary to acquire a considerable amount of peat. Moreover, the preparatory work must be done in the fall.

Peat is chosen because it helps to provide proper seed care, which will then grow into a beautiful harvest. Peat perfectly absorbs moisture, which cauliflower does not like so much. Here it is very similar to the white one. Excessive moisture is the enemy of a good harvest.

Proper preparation requires accuracy and thoroughness. The selected peat mixture must be steamed for several hours, and then add 20 grams of nitrogen fertilizers and fertilizers that contain microfertilizers to it.

The resulting mixture should be stored until spring in an inaccessible place. You can store it both in the country and at home.

There may be several periods when you can sow seeds:

• First period. If you sow seedlings at this time, then the harvest will be early: March 15-20.
• Second period. Seedlings are planted from March 30 to April 8.
• Third period. Sowing is carried out from April 25 to May 8.

In order to harvest in the fall, sowing must be done from early to mid-June.

For planting, you need to select only the highest quality seeds.

Terms are determined individually. As already mentioned, planting cauliflower is painstaking but worthwhile. After all, later, you will have a delicious, juicy, beautiful harvest in your hands.

Seedlings of cauliflower are selected so that their seeds are larger. Because they will give you the best results. They are equally well suited for landing in the Moscow region, and in Siberia, and in the Urals.

The preparatory phase does not end with the nutritional formula. It is necessary to prepare seedlings for sowing in the same way. This can be easily done at home. Take seeds of the desired variety and heat them in hot water for 20 minutes. After that, they must be cooled in cold water. Further, at night, for 8 hours, you need to soak the seeds for sowing in a solution of potassium permanganate.

If all the harvesting is done in the fall, you will have to save the seedlings and nutrient mixture for the winter. There will be no problems with storing the mixture. It should be away from eyes, especially if there are children in the house, and from rodents if you live in a private house.

In the soil at your dacha, you need to make small grooves, the depth of which will not exceed 2 cm.

Seeds are laid out in them according to the 3 cm by 3 cm pattern. Properly planted seedlings will help you avoid many problems when the crop begins to stretch in the garden. Make the desired number of strips for planting cauliflower. This way, by leaving a distance between the grooves, you provide space for each cauliflower to grow, just as you would with white cabbage.

It is not recommended to make a dive when landing. As usual, picking delays seed growth for several weeks. It turns out that you wanted it or not, and the harvest will be late. And this will interfere with your plans if you expected that the cabbage will be early.

Cauliflower seedlings do not require picking

Continuing the care of your future harvest, it is necessary for each plant to select a nutrient square from the mixture that you prepared for the winter for storage.

You can also select a separate pot for each plant, so it will be more convenient to monitor the ascent of the crop and take care of it. This approach will allow you to store seedlings in a comfortable environment, which will only have a positive effect on the result.

While the seedlings have not yet begun to rise from the soil, they should be in optimal temperature conditions (about 22 degrees). Each cube or pot must be covered with plastic wrap. This is necessary so that the soil under the seedlings does not dry out.

Second phase

In the next step, we will answer the question of how to grow cauliflower seedlings. After all the preparatory steps described above, it is necessary to lower the temperature to 10 degrees for a week. This will help to ensure the best growth of the crop and contribute to the rapid development of its root system. It is important that the soil temperature is within 20-20 degrees.

Seedlings of cauliflower do not tolerate when there is a lot of moisture around. But at the same time, overdrying the soil is very harmful. It is necessary to ensure that the humidity of the air when growing cauliflower remains within 80%.

If you do not observe comfortable conditions for the plant, do not monitor the moisture and dryness of the soil, do not control the temperature and moisture changes, then the plant will violate all the terms, grow, forming small empty heads, and move on to the next stage - the flowering stage.

If you do not adhere to the growing conditions, cabbage will bloom without forming a head.

Stage three

When the weather is already steadily warm, around the beginning of May, early seedlings can be transplanted into the garden to a permanent place. The main thing is to choose the right time so that the seedlings do not stretch too much. The best age for cauliflower seedlings, before they get into the ground, should be at least 50 days. Just like with temperature and moisture, it is important that the seedlings are not too early, but at the same time it is harmful that they are overgrown.

If the seedlings are more than 50 days old, then the quality of the finished crop will be very poor. The reason is that after planting such seedlings, it will lose several leaves, and in this case, a small head of cauliflower will form.

On a small head of cabbage, the leaves do not hold well and will fall off. It is important to choose the moment when four full leaves grow around the head of cabbage. Seedlings must be planted in a permanent place very carefully, not very deeply deepening the core. The final result will depend on how correctly the seedlings are planted.

While the seedlings are growing, you have enough time to prepare the beds in the garden. The best soil for cauliflower is fertile, neutral soil.

If you are the owner of a summer cottage, then it is best to plant and grow cauliflower in the beds. This will help ensure proper care of her.

The seating scheme is extremely simple: all seedlings are planted in two rows, the distance between the row is half a meter / meter. This will enable the crop to grow without touching each other.

The cauliflower bed should be easy to care for

Proper care means that the seedlings must be planted in optimal conditions for them. It should not be deeply buried so that you can take care of the leaves and the plant itself.

In order for the cabbage to grow in conditions comfortable for it, it is necessary that the soil from which it grows is warm. To preserve heat, each bed is "covered" with a film. The film not only helps to keep warm, but also prevents weeds from coming out and ruining the crop.

After you see already small heads of cauliflower in the garden, you need to continue to care and store. It is necessary to water the crop in a timely manner, weed the beds and feed the plants.

Another important condition for high-quality cultivation of both cauliflower and white cabbage, in principle, is the compliance of its variety and climatic conditions. For example, in the conditions of the south, it is impossible to use varieties intended for the middle lane, etc., because then it will be difficult to care for a certain variety as required.

When the cabbage is ripe, it can be harvested, or harvested selectively. The harvested crop is sent for storage in boxes. In addition, if there are few seedlings, then it can be stored in the house, in the refrigerator, on the balcony, in the basement, where it is convenient.

The main thing is that the storage conditions are as optimal as the conditions under which the cabbage grew.

Cauliflower can be harvested as it ripens

Varieties and hybrids of cauliflower

Cauliflower varieties can belong to both domestic and foreign selection. It can also be classified as early, medium and late varieties.

Each variety of cauliflower has its own individual requirements for growing, handling and storage. But remember that cauliflower is a perishable product that cannot withstand long-term storage (in the country, in a cellar, or somewhere else). There are several ways to store this product (storage open, fresh, it can be salted, pickled or frozen). Caring for cabbage at all stages of growing is very important if you intend to achieve the desired result.

Goodman cauliflower may have a yellowish tinge

Foreign varieties:

• Fine linen. It is a Dutch hybrid that ripens early enough. This plant has a large head and looks quite powerful. The head of this representative of the Dutch selection is densely covered with leaves. Usually grown in spring and summer, sometimes in autumn.
• Goodman. Another representative of the Dutch selection. This cauliflower variety has a yellowish head and a flat shape. The head of the cabbage is only partially covered with leaves. Has a pronounced taste. Goodman cabbage is ideal for early production in open field and film greenhouses at home.
• Opaal. It is the fastest growing variety of Dutch cauliflower. Can be grown in almost all areas and in various conditions. Suitable for cultivation in greenhouses and on the ground. It has a bright white head and a flat shape. It tastes great.
• Alpha. Very early ripening variety (from germination to harvest 85-95 days). Alfa cauliflower is suitable for the Urals and regions with similar weather conditions (Siberia). This variety has excellent taste. Alfa cauliflower heads are white in color, smooth, of medium density. That is why it is so popular in the Urals and Siberia. This variety is successfully used at home for various processing methods: boiling, frying, salting and freezing.

Alpha cauliflower ripens quickly and is suitable for colder regions

Cauliflower varieties, in addition to Dutch ones, can be other varieties. Dutch ones are the most common though. Among them are:

• Patriotic. This cauliflower variety can rightfully be considered a veteran, since it has been grown since the 50s. It has a flat shape and a bright white head. Very tasty, does not lose its shape for a long time. It is intended for fresh consumption, pickling and canning, as well as storage. Domestic cabbage does not require special care.
• Early Gribovskaya. It has a white head, ripens quickly and has excellent taste. Usually grown in spring and summer. Cauliflower Gribovskaya 1355 is very popular in the Moscow region.
• Smilla. Quite a popular hybrid that can be grown almost anywhere. It has a flat, bright white, medium-sized head that is completely covered with leaves. In weight, one head can easily reach 3 kg.
• Snowball. A well-known domestic hybrid grown everywhere. It has a white head, round in shape, completely covered with leaves. Great taste. Can grow and yield crops even under poor conditions. Designed for cultivation in film teplits and open field. This variety is great for salads and homemade pickling.

As you can see, cauliflower is not a very picky plant to grow, but it requires some knowledge and training, as well as compliance with temperature, climate and humidity conditions. However, compliance with all these rules allows you to get a good and tasty harvest as a result.

The general principle for preparing seeds, soil and growing cauliflower seedlings is the same as for white cabbage (see Sowing white cabbage and caring for seedlings). Below, only the individual features of cauliflower agricultural technology will be considered in detail.

The approximate age of cauliflower seedlings for central Russia:

• for early varieties and hybrids - 25-60 days,
• for mid-early - 35-40 days,
• for late - 30-35 days.

Sowing seeds is carried out:

• early varieties and hybrids - from 5 to 30 March,
• medium early - from April 10 to May 10,
• late - from May 25 to June 10.

Dates for planting seedlings in open ground:

• early varieties and hybrids - from April 25 to May 15,
• medium early - from May 20 to June 15,
• late - from July 1 to July 10.

Such an age "spread" when growing seedlings of early varieties and hybrids is not accidental. To receive the earliest finished products from the end of June or the first days of July in the open field, the maximum possible age of seedlings is required - 50-60 days. It is planted in late April, early May, often under a temporary cover with a film. This seedling is grown only in a pot method for better survival. Then comes the time of 40-45 day old cabbage seedlings, which take root more easily and can potentially give a higher yield. But to achieve the maximum yield of early ripening varieties and hybrids is possible only when planting 20-25 day old seedlings, here the largest heads of high quality are obtained.

Unlike white cabbage, cauliflower has a less developed root system. This cabbage is even more moisture-loving and demanding on soil fertility. The bulk of the roots is located in the 25-40 cm soil layer. For growing seedlings, it is better to use the potting method without picking. However, it was noticed that with early spring and spring planting, seedlings grown with a pick and without a pick, in the future, give almost the same yield. But with the summer period of planting seedlings, the potting method without picking has a significant advantage, especially in dry season. Plants take root better and develop a more powerful root that goes deep into the soil.

For spring-summer and summer-autumn crops with growing for winter, you can use the potless method of growing seedlings. For the Moscow region, the optimal sowing time is from the end of April to June. For growing for winter crops are carried out in 2-3 stages from mid-June to July 10. For better survival, seedlings are planted at a younger age with 3-4 true leaves.

In the northern regions, due to the shorter warm period, it is more expedient to grow older cauliflower seedlings, 50-60 days old. In this case, the feeding area of ​​one plant should be slightly increased to 7x7 or 8x8 cm.

During the growing of seedlings, there should be no stops in growth, otherwise there is a danger of shooting. This is especially common in early cabbage when planting adult seedlings.

Seedless growing method for the south

For arid regions, the less common seedless growing method can be used. In this case, the root system turns out to be not so branched, but more deeply penetrating into the soil. Seeds are sown directly into the ground with a row spacing of 45-60 cm, depending on the characteristics of the variety or hybrid and soil fertility. When the first two true leaves appear, thinning is carried out, leaving 10-15 cm between plants in a row. The final thinning is done in the phase of 5-6 leaves, leaving 15-20 cm between plants on highly fertile soils, 20-25 cm on less fertile soils. should be carried out with well-watered soil. If this event is carried out carefully, the plucked-out plants retain the root system well enough and the best of them can be planted in the places of dead plants or on another plot.

Care during the growing period

Since cauliflower is a very moisture-loving plant, the optimum soil moisture throughout the entire growing period should be in the range of 70-85%. It is very important not to allow the soil to dry out during the seedling period, as this leads to the formation of a shallow head or even to a complete loss of yield due to the rapid transition of plants to the flowering phase.

An equally important factor is compliance with temperature conditions. During the period of growing seedlings, the temperature must not be allowed to drop below +8 ° C for a long time, 10 or more days. Otherwise, a rapid transition of the plant to the flowering phase may occur, without the formation of a dense marketable head. Temperatures above +20 ° C for 10 or more days, especially at night, provoke the stretching of seedlings and the formation of small loose, rapidly disintegrating heads.

The optimum temperature before the emergence of shoots is +21 ... + 23 o C, then for 5 days +10 ... + 12 o C. After the seedlings get stronger and become stocky, the temperature is gradually increased to +16 ... + 18 o C in sunny weather and +13 ... + 15 o C - in cloudy weather. At night, the temperature is maintained within +10 ... + 12 o C.

As already mentioned, cauliflower is more demanding on nutrition than white cabbage. This must be taken into account from the very beginning, i.e. at the stage of growing seedlings. With a lack of trace elements in the seedling period (especially when grown in a pot method without picking), regardless of the conditions for further cultivation, cabbage forms ugly heads or does not form them at all. It is especially sensitive to the lack of boron and molybdenum.

With a lack of molybdenum, cabbage grows deformed leaves and does not proceed to the formation of a head.

With a lack of boron, glassy spots are formed on the heads, which become brown in color. Under these spots, voids are soon formed up to the stump itself, covered with a black crust on the inside.

To avoid such troubles, during the period when the first true leaf appears in the seedlings, it is watered directly over the leaves with a complex fertilizer containing trace elements.

Some literary sources say that when feeding cauliflower seedlings, the doses of mineral fertilizers per feeding are increased by 1.5 times compared to the doses for white cabbage seedlings. During the growing period (depending on the age of the finished seedlings), 2-3 additional fertilizing is given to her. Here I will take the liberty of disagreeing. To obtain a more uniformly developed seedlings and tissues in plants, it is still better to carry out 1-2 additional fertilizing with a solution of normal concentration, simply by shortening the period of time between fertilizing a little. For 30-day seedlings, 2 dressings are enough, 35-40 days - 3, 45-50 days - 4, for 55-60 days - 5.

The first feeding is given 10 days after the pick, or in the phase of the first two true leaves with a potless method of growing seedlings. The second and subsequent dressings are given at intervals of 10 days. Regardless of the age of the seedlings, the final feeding is given 3-4 days before planting in open ground. It is best to alternate organic and mineral supplements with each other.

In addition to basic dressings, cabbage is made with 3 foliar dressings with microelements. The first - in the phase of 1-2 true leaves, the second - in the phase of 5-6 true leaves, and the third - when the cabbage forms a head the size of a walnut. For 1 liter of water, 0.5 tablets of trace elements or 0.5 h / l of complete fertilizer with trace elements are diluted and the plants are sprayed on the leaf. Depending on the age of the plants, the consumption of the working solution is 30-60 ml / m 2 (3-6 l / one hundred square meters). You can use liquid micronutrient fertilizers for these purposes, for example, "Uniflor micro", "MicroFe" or others. If complex fertilizers with microelements are used during the main dressing, then additional dressings with microelements can be omitted.

First feeding.

For 10 liters of water: 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium fertilizer. Consumption: 150-200 ml per pot, or 8-10 l / m2 for potless cultivation.

Second and subsequent feeding any of the following solutions:

• For 10 liters of water: 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium fertilizer.
• For 10 liters of water: 0.5 liters of mullein or chicken droppings.

Consumption: 150-200 ml per pot, or 8-10 l / m2 for potless cultivation.

In the absence of mullein and chicken manure, you can buy dry granular chicken manure, liquid extract of cow dung "Biud", or liquid extract of horse manure "Biud", "Bucephal", "Kaury" in stores.

Top dressing before planting seedlings: for 10 liters of water: 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 80 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium fertilizer.

If the seedlings are well developed, then you can give the following solution: for 10 liters of water, 40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium fertilizer.

Consumption: 150-200 ml per pot or 8-10 l / m2 for potless cultivation.

When growing seedlings in a potless way (for example, in seedling boxes without internal partitions between plants), the soil between the plants is cut along and across the rows 3-5 days before planting. This technique in combination with the above "feeding before planting seedlings" contributes to the formation of a branched root system.

Literature:

1. Cabbage. // Book series "Household farming". M. "Rural nov", 1998.

(2) Matveev V.P., Rubtsov M.I. Vegetable growing. Moscow: Agropromizdat, 1985.431 p.

3.Andreev Yu.M., Golik S.V. Cultivation of cauliflower using growth regulators // Bulletin of the vegetable grower. 2011. No. 4. S. 13-20.

Happy Tasha over a year ago

Cabbage seedlings are available: white cabbage, cauliflower, colirabi, savoy. How to find out where is which cabbage? How to distinguish by external signs? And also, on a note: how to distinguish early cabbage from late (seedlings)?

dolfanika 7 months ago

For inexperienced summer residents, this is a question of filling and when you buy seedlings on the market, you can very easily slip early cabbage seedlings instead of late ones. Not always, but still most often the color of early cabbage seedlings is greener, almost emerald green. And the seedlings of early cabbage are not very tall, they are plump and squat. In late varieties of cabbage, the color is bluish and in growth it is higher than the early seedlings of early varieties.

More leaves in late varieties on seedlings are less common. Good seedlings can be distinguished as follows. It is necessary to shake the bush and if the soil remains on the roots, then the seedlings are strong and healthy, and these are kohlrabi cabbage seedlings.

Growing varieties of cabbage

Author: Valery | Posted in cabbage | 2012-10-29

In addition to white cabbage, gardeners grow many more varieties and varieties of cabbage.

Red cabbage The heads of this cabbage, in contrast to the white cabbage, have a red-violet color. Red cabbage strengthens blood vessels well and improves blood composition.

Heads of cabbage are small in size, but quite dense and well stored in winter. For food, red cabbage is mainly used fresh, but it is also suitable for pickling.

It is grown in the same way as for white cabbage, the difference is that the seedlings are planted in a permanent place more densely, that is, a distance of 45 cm is made between the rows, and the plant is 25-30 cm from the plant in the rows. Cauliflower Cauliflower has recently attracted the attention of gardeners more and more for its high taste, dietary and valuable nutritional properties.

This cabbage contains many vitamins (B1, B2, PP, K, A), protein and mineral salts (potassium, phosphorus, iron, calcium). To get an earlier harvest of cauliflower, it is better to grow seedlings earlier (March, April).

The following early varieties are suitable for these purposes: Early Gribovskaya, Snezhniy ball, MOVIR-74, Skorospelka, Garantia. Many gardeners get good yields when sowing seeds under a film directly to the garden in the third decade of April.

Seeds are sown on seedlings at a distance of 10 cm row from row. And in a row of 5-6 cm. After sowing, the bed is covered with a covering material (lutrasil) or low arcs are installed and covered with plastic wrap.

On warm days, the film is slightly opened or removed completely so that the seedlings do not stretch out. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place when at least 4 true leaves appear.

Vegetable growing. Seedlings of cabbage. Growing technology.

In the process of growing seedlings, it is fed with such a solution: add one tablespoon of urea or liquid sodium humate per 10 liters of water, watered with 5 liters per 1 square meter (this top dressing is done two weeks after the emergence of shoots). If you want to get a cauliflower crop later, then you need to sow the seeds in the same way at a later date in May (I, II, III decade).

First, seedlings are grown in a small area of ​​the garden, and then in June they are transplanted to a permanent place. Seedlings are planted in beds 90-100 cm wide.

The ridges are prepared as follows: after digging the beds, add a glass of wood ash, one tablespoon of nitrophosphate and superphosphate, 2-3 kg of organic fertilizers; vegetable or manure humus for each square meter Then the garden bed is additionally dug to a depth of 10-12 cm Seedlings are planted according to the following scheme: in a row of 25-30 cm and a row from a row of 50 cm. How to care for cauliflower in the garden.

Cauliflower is a light-loving culture. To get good heads, you need up to 10-12 leaves on the plant. For this, after planting the seedlings, it is necessary to monitor the watering so that the soil is constantly moist. Top dressing is done after planting seedlings in 2 weeks.

A half-liter jar of mushy mullein and one tablespoon of complete fertilizer (containing trace elements and phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen) are added to a bucket of water. Spend 5 liters per sq.m. 6-7 days after the first one, the second feeding is done.

For each square meter, sprinkle one glass of wood ash, make a small hilling (5 cm) and pour with a solution: add one tablespoon of nitrophosphate to 10 liters of water, water up to one liter for each plant. To make the heads white, dense, they are temporarily shaded, that is, one sheet is broken above the head or 2-3 sheets are connected with a rubber ring (this operation is done when the head reaches the size of a walnut).

You should not be late with harvesting, because the heads begin to crumble. Cauliflower leaves are rich in many nutrients and can be eaten as well.

The leaves need to be washed, cut into large pieces (10-12 cm), boiled in salted water and, adding vegetable oil, serve as a garnish. Broccoli This type of cabbage is good for its tenderness, its extraordinary taste and aroma.

Broccoli is best used as a side dish. It, like cauliflower, contains many vitamins, but in terms of carotene and vitamin C content, broccoli is much superior to cauliflower.

This cabbage is considered a healing vegetable, broccoli is recommended for diseases of the cardiovascular system, it is an excellent dietary food product. This cabbage is early ripening.

The growing season from germination to harvesting is 50-65 days, and from planting seedlings - 30-35 days. Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the structure of the head, which consists of formed buds of green or purple color. The head reaches a diameter of 10-12 cm.

When the central head is cut off, the broccoli begins to branch out and each branch ends in a small head. The main thing is to cut off the heads on time, otherwise after a few days they disintegrate, bloom with yellow flowers and become already inedible.

This cabbage variety is less whimsical and can grow on any soil. Broccoli can be sown directly into open ground in early May, if you want to harvest earlier, you can also grow seedlings like cauliflower. Broccoli is grown in the garden.

A distance of 50-60 cm is made in the aisles, and between plants in a row 30-35 cm. They take care of it in the same way as for cauliflower.

It is better to store broccoli in plastic bags in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2 ° C and no more than 10 days, because the cut heads quickly wither. Brussels sprouts Brussels sprouts is an unusual plant, on a long (60-70 cm high) stem of which small, dense heads of cabbage grow at the base of the leaves, they are eaten boiled.

Brussels sprouts contain many vitamins, salts, proteins, so it is considered dietary and medicinal. Brussels sprouts for seedlings are sown early (this is the first or second decade of March), and seedlings are planted on the garden bed in May, from 1 to 20.

Under this variety of cabbage, fresh manure and humus are not applied; it is better to add compost. The distance between the rows and plants is 50 cm. When the stem grows 50-60 cm long, the top must be pinched. In October, the leaves turn brown and fall off - this is a signal that the heads of cabbage are ripe.

Cut off the stem with heads of cabbage at the base at the soil level. At home, the stems are placed together with the heads of cabbage in plastic bags and stored for two months in a cool place at a temperature of about 1 ° C.

Kohlrabi cabbage Kohlrabi can rather be called turnips or rutabagas, it does not look like cabbage at all. The overgrown stalk tastes like a cabbage stump, but at the same time kohlrabi is juicier and much tastier.

Kohlrabi ripened quite early and is ready for use after sprouting in 2 months. Sowing seeds and planting seedlings in open ground can be from April 25 to May.

Seedlings are planted in a permanent place at a distance of 30-40 cm between rows, and in a row - 20-25 cm from each other. The fruits are ready to eat when they grow 8-10 cm in diameter and weigh 90-120 g. When overripe, the stems become rough and lose their nutritional value.

Savoy cabbage This cabbage, unlike white cabbage, has blistery, corrugated leaves. They contain twice as much protein, dry matter and vitamin C as white cabbage. Savoy cabbage leaves are tender and tasty.

Gardeners are not deservedly rarely engaged in the cultivation of this type of cabbage, because it has a low yield and is stored for no more than 2 months. But not many people know that Savoy cabbage can be left right in the garden for the winter under the snow, shoveled the snow in January-February and cut down the cabbages.

They are immersed in cold water for a few minutes and used for food. Savoy cabbage is not suitable for pickling. It is used in salads, for filling pies, for preparing first and second courses.

The cultivation technique does not differ from the cultivation of white cabbage. Cabbage Basically, Chinese cabbage is suitable for use in fresh salads, but you can also cook first courses from it.

Boil it for no more than 10 minutes, because it boils quickly. This cabbage is very early ripening and ripens to market maturity in 50-55 days. A plant with wrinkled, curly leaves along the edges, strongly leafy, spreading.

Peking cabbage very quickly forms a flower shoot in hot weather. It is necessary to sow it in early spring on a bed under a film. Seeds are sown keeping the distance between rows 18-20 cm, and the plant from the plant in a row is 10-12 cm.

Before sowing, the seeds are not soaked, they are sown in moist soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Cabbage loves moisture, so it is often watered by sprinkling. Eating Chinese cabbage salads is very beneficial for anemia, nervous system disorders and headaches.

By following these simple techniques when growing cabbage, you will get high guaranteed yields of this tasty and healthy vegetable.

I wish you excellent, guaranteed harvests in any weather!

Category: Useful information

The general principle for preparing seeds, soil and growing cauliflower seedlings is the same as for white cabbage (see. Sowing white cabbage and caring for seedlings). Below we will consider in detail only the individual characteristics of cauliflower farming techniques. The approximate age of cauliflower seedlings for central Russia:

• for early varieties and hybrids - 25-60 days, for mid-early - 35-40 days,
• early varieties and hybrids - from March 5 to 30, mid-early - from April 10 to May 10, late - from May 25 to June 10.

Dates for planting seedlings in open ground:

• early varieties and hybrids - from April 25 to May 15, mid-early - from May 20 to June 15, late - from July 1 to July 10.

Such an age "spread" when growing seedlings of early varieties and hybrids is not accidental. To receive the earliest finished products from the end of June or the first days of July in the open field, the maximum possible age of seedlings is required - 50-60 days.

It is planted in late April, early May, often under a temporary cover with a film. This seedling is grown only in a pot method for better survival.

Then comes the time of 40-45 day old cabbage seedlings, which take root more easily and can potentially give a higher yield. But to achieve the maximum yield of early ripening varieties and hybrids is possible only when planting 20-25 day old seedlings, the largest heads of high quality are obtained here. Unlike white cabbage, the cauliflower root system is less developed.

This cabbage is even more moisture-loving and demanding on soil fertility. The bulk of the roots is located in the 25-40 cm soil layer. For growing seedlings, it is better to use the potting method without picking.

However, it was noticed that with early spring and spring planting, seedlings grown with a pick and without a pick, in the future, give almost the same yield. But with the summer period of planting seedlings, the potting method without picking has a significant advantage, especially in dry season.

Plants take root better and develop a more powerful root that goes deep into the soil. For spring-summer and summer-autumn crops with growing for winter, you can use the potless method of growing seedlings. For the Moscow region, the optimal sowing time is from the end of April to June.

For growing for winter crops are carried out in 2-3 stages from mid-June to July 10. For better survival, seedlings are planted at a younger age with 3-4 true leaves. In the northern regions, due to the shorter warm period, it is more expedient to grow older cauliflower seedlings, 50-60 days old.

In this case, the feeding area of ​​one plant should be slightly increased to 7x7 or 8x8 cm. During the growing of seedlings there should be no stops in growth, otherwise there is a danger of shooting. This is especially common in early cabbage when planting adult seedlings.

Seedless growing method for the south

For arid regions, the less common seedless growing method can be used. In this case, the root system turns out to be not so branched, but more deeply penetrating into the soil.

Seeds are sown directly into the ground with a row spacing of 45-60 cm, depending on the characteristics of the variety or hybrid and soil fertility. When the first two true leaves appear, thinning is carried out, leaving 10-15 cm between the plants in a row.

The final thinning is done in the phase of 5-6 leaves, leaving 15-20 cm between plants on highly fertile soils, 20-25 cm on less fertile soils. Thinning should be carried out with well-watered soil. If this event is carried out carefully, the plucked-out plants retain the root system well enough and the best of them can be planted in the places of dead plants or on another plot.

Care during the growing period

Cauliflower

Since cauliflower is a very moisture-loving plant, the optimum soil moisture throughout the entire growing period should be in the range of 70-85%. It is very important not to allow the soil to dry out during the seedling period, as this leads to the formation of a shallow head or even to a complete loss of yield due to the rapid transition of plants to the flowering phase. An equally important factor is the observance of temperature regimes.

During the period of growing seedlings, the temperature should not be allowed to drop below + 8 ° C for a long time, 10 or more days. Otherwise, a rapid transition of the plant to the flowering phase may occur, without the formation of a dense marketable head.

A temperature above + 20 ° C for 10 or more days, especially at night, provokes the elongation of seedlings and the formation of small loose, rapidly disintegrating heads. The optimum temperature before emergence is + 21 + 23 ° C, then for 5 days + 10 + 12 ° C. After the seedlings get stronger and become stocky, the temperature is gradually increased to + 16 + 18 ° C in sunny weather and + 13 + 15 ° C - in cloudy weather.

At night, the temperature is maintained within + 10 + 12 ° C. As already mentioned, cauliflower is more demanding on nutrition than white cabbage. This must be taken into account from the very beginning, i.e. at the stage of growing seedlings.

With a lack of trace elements in the seedling period (especially when grown in a pot method without picking), regardless of the conditions for further cultivation, cabbage forms ugly heads or does not form them at all. It is especially sensitive to a lack of boron and molybdenum. With a lack of molybdenum, cabbage grows deformed leaves and does not go to the formation of a head. With a lack of boron, glassy spots are formed on the heads, which acquire a brown color.

Under these spots, voids soon form up to the stump itself, covered with a black crust on the inside. To avoid such troubles, during the period when the seedlings have the first true leaf, they are watered directly over the leaves with a complex fertilizer containing trace elements. Some literary sources say that when feeding seedlings colored for cabbage, the doses of mineral fertilizers per feeding are increased by 1.5 times compared to the doses for white cabbage seedlings. During the growing period (depending on the age of the finished seedlings), 2-3 additional feeding is given to her.

Here I will take the liberty of disagreeing. To obtain a more uniformly developed seedlings and tissues in plants, it is still better to carry out 1-2 additional fertilizing with a solution of normal concentration, simply shortening the time period between fertilizing a little.

For 30-day seedlings, 2 dressings are enough, 35-40 days - 3, 45-50 days - 4, for 55-60 days - 5. The first dressing is given 10 days after the pick, or in the first phase two true leaves with a potless method of growing seedlings. The second and subsequent feeding is given at intervals of 10 days.

Regardless of the age of the seedlings, the final feeding is given 3-4 days before planting in open ground. It is best to alternate organic and mineral dressings with each other. In addition to basic dressings, cabbage is made 3 foliar dressings with microelements.

The first is in the phase of 1-2 true leaves, the second is in the phase of 5-6 true leaves, and the third is when the cabbage forms a head the size of a walnut. For 1 liter of water, 0.5 tablets of trace elements or 0.5 h / l of complete fertilizer with trace elements are diluted and the plants are sprayed on the leaf.

Depending on the age of the plants, the consumption of the working solution is 30-60 ml / m2 (3-6 l / one hundred square meters). You can use liquid micronutrient fertilizers for these purposes, for example, "Uniflor micro", "MicroFe" or others. If complex fertilizers with microelements are used for the main feeding, then additional feeding with microelements can be omitted.

Cauliflower

First feeding. For 10 liters of water: 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium fertilizer. Consumption: 150-200 ml per pot, or 8-10 l / m2 for potless cultivation. Second and subsequent feeding any of the following solutions:

• For 10 liters of water: 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium fertilizer. For 10 liters of water: 0.5 liters of mullein or chicken droppings.

Consumption: 150-200 ml per pot, or 8-10 l / m2 for potless cultivation. In the absence of mullein and chicken droppings, you can buy dry granular chicken manure, liquid extract of cow dung "Biud", or liquid extract of horse manure in stores "Biud", "Bucephalus", "Kaury". Top dressing before planting seedlings: for 10 liters of water: 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 80 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium fertilizer. If the seedlings are well developed, then you can give the following solution: for 10 liters of water 40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium fertilizer. Consumption: 150-200 ml per pot or 8-10 l / m2 with a potless method of growing.When growing seedlings in a potless way (for example, in seedling boxes without internal partitions between plants), the soil between the plants is cut 3-5 days before planting along and across the rows.

This technique in combination with the above "feeding before planting seedlings" contributes to the formation of a branched root system. 1. Cabbage. // Book series "Household farming".

M. "Rural nov", 1998.2. Matveev VP, Rubtsov MI Vegetable growing. Moscow: Agropromizdat, 1985.431 p.3. Andreev Yu. M., Golik SV Cultivation of cauliflower using growth regulators // Bulletin of the vegetable grower.

2011. No. 4. S. 13-20.

Cauliflower is an annual vegetable plant in the cabbage family. Homeland - the Mediterranean, also widespread in Western and Northern Europe. Cauliflower was brought to Russia from Europe in the 18th century and is cultivated everywhere in small volumes.

It is appreciated for its early maturity and taste and for not too difficult care. The heads (modified inflorescences) of plants containing many vitamins and mineral salts are eaten.

The use of cauliflower is very useful for gastrointestinal and cardiovascular diseases. The root system of cauliflower is located close to the soil surface and is less developed than the root system of white cabbage. After the formation of a rosette of 25-30 leaves, an inflorescence is formed that looks like a dense head of green, yellow, white or purple flowers.

In general, cauliflower is more demanding to grow than other types of cabbage. It reacts sensitively to unfavorable conditions and care, although in general it is not demanding for heat, but it is less resistant to low temperatures than the same white cabbage.

With their prolonged exposure, plant growth slows down, and small heads used for food are formed. The optimum temperature for the formation of dense and large heads is 15-20 degrees. At temperatures above 25 degrees, small and loose heads are formed, especially with insufficient watering at this time.

In addition to the ambient temperature, cauliflower is demanding on light conditions, especially during the period of growing seedlings. Under conditions of long daylight hours, the formation of plant heads is accelerated, but subsequently they grow out and flowering shoots are formed. Artificial creation of conditions for a shortened daylight hours leads to the formation of denser heads and prevents the formation of flowering shoots. Of all cabbage, cauliflower is the most picky about the composition of the soil, its fertility.

The need for nutrients is twice as high as that of the white cabbage. In addition to the main mineral and organic fertilizers used, it urgently needs fertilizing with manganese, magnesium, boron and molybdenum.

With a lack of trace elements, there is a weak development of the heads, hollowness of the stalk, the leaves are deformed and the heads themselves usually rot. Currently, about 10 varieties of cauliflower are zoned. Early ripe (vegetation period - 85-100 days) - Movir 74 (suitable for canning), Early Gribovskaya 1355, Snezhinka.

Mid-early (vegetation period - 95-120 days) - Domestic (suitable for canning), Moscow canning and Guarantee. Late ripening (vegetation period - 175-230 days) - Adler winter 679, Adler spring and Sochi.

Cauliflower: growing seedlings

The conditions for growing cauliflower and caring for it are almost the same as for growing white cabbage seedlings. Early varieties are sown in seed boxes installed in heated greenhouses or other heated areas.

For each seedling box, about 2-3 g of seeds prepared for sowing are consumed. It is recommended to soak the seeds, for which they are placed in a gauze bag filled with 0.5 volume and soaked in clean water at room temperature for 10-12 hours.

Before sowing, the soil is moistened and the seeds are sown to a depth of no more than 1 cm. After seeding the seeds, the sowing is mulched with a thin layer of sand. Approximately two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are picked.

Seedlings of the earliest planting dates are grown in peat-humus pots. Seedlings of later dates can also be grown in a potless way.

To do this, the seedlings dive into the peat-humus soil of greenhouse beds or into seedling boxes. When 2-3 true leaves are formed, the plants are fed with a solution of potassium or ammonium nitrate, for which 5 g of ammonium and 15 g of potassium nitrate are diluted in a bucket of water. When 3-4 leaves are formed on the plants, foliar feeding is carried out by spraying with a solution of boric acid and molybdenum-acid ammonium (2 g per 10 l of water).

Seedlings are rarely watered, but abundantly; after watering, the room is ventilated. Approximately two weeks before planting in open ground, the seedlings are gradually hardened, accustoming the plants to the outside temperature. Seedlings are ready for planting at the age of 45-50 days.

By this time, the plants should have at least 4-5 leaves.

Growing cauliflower outdoors

Regardless of the planting method, do not forget that cauliflower is planted on the site after such predecessors as legumes or root crops, onions, early potatoes or early cucumber varieties. When grown as a re-crop, cauliflower is placed after early green crops and podwinter root crops. For spring-summer cauliflower cultivation, the soil is prepared in the fall.

After harvesting the previous crop, it is thoroughly processed with a hoe to a depth of 6-10 cm. Then the site is dug up, adding 7-8 kg of manure or peat-manure compost per square meter, provided that they were not introduced under the predecessors.

In the spring, before planting, mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil (ammonium nitrate - 30 g, potassium chloride - 20 g and 50 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. M) and re-dug it up, carefully loosening the lumps. Seedlings of early cauliflower are planted according to the scheme 70x25 cm , mid-season - 70x30 cm. Sometimes the aisles are made narrower (50-60 cm), and the distances in the rows are wider (40-45 cm).

When planting seedlings, a pinch of ash is added to each hole, thoroughly mixing it with the ground. Then 1 liter of water is poured into the hole and the plants are planted. After planting, the seedlings are regularly watered until they adapt to the planting site.

After a week, the dead plants are replaced with new ones. Seed planting in open ground is carried out to a depth of 1 cm. Sowing, as a rule, is carried out with pre-soaked seeds.

When the first true leaf appears, the plants are thinned out and left between them 15-20 cm (with a row spacing of 70 cm) or 35-40 (with a row spacing of 50-60 cm). Further care for the sowing is the same as for the seedlings. During cultivation, at least 5-6 waterings are carried out (at least 30 l / m2).

A prerequisite, especially during the formation of heads, is loosening the soil, which is carried out after each watering or rain. Care consists in processing row spacings and hilling plants.

If necessary, top dressing is carried out with full mineral fertilizer. To grow a full-fledged crop, it is imperative to shade the heads of cauliflower during the period of their intensive formation. In addition, the two upper sheets are tied over the head or broken. This is done so that the head does not disintegrate and retains its color.

Harvesting secrets

Proper care is not only about growing, but also about getting the harvest right. The cauliflower heads are removed when they are of sufficient size. From 1 square meter of plantings, 2 or more kilograms of heads are removed.

The heads are cut off together with 3-4 rosette leaves. Plants that do not have time to ripen before the end of the harvest period are pulled out along with the roots and used for growing them.

To do this, they must have heads with a diameter of about 5 cm and at least 20 leaves. To grow them, they are placed in heated greenhouses or greenhouses free of biofuel, placing 35-40 plants per 1 square meter. Then the plants are covered with shields, mats, black foil, and the temperature in the greenhouses is maintained at 5 degrees.

Greenhouses, as they get colder, are insulated with sawdust or other improvised means. This crop is harvested in December or January. You can also grow cauliflower heads in basements or cellars.

In this case, the plants are tied up and hung on trellises with their roots up. At the end of the growing process, the mass of cauliflower heads reaches 0.5 kg, and the diameter is 15-20 cm. Here are all the secrets - nothing complicated. Cauliflower heads are used in food fresh, boiled, fried. They are also pickled, used to make soups, casseroles, side dishes and salads.

According to statistics, cabbage is the most popular vegetable in the world; it accounts for ¼ of the total amount of vegetables eaten by humans.
A certain scientist, who believed that man descended from one monkey, believed that all descended from the only savage ancestor of the collard greens. The transformation of a nondescript tasty leaf into a white, red, Peking, broccoli owes to the work of a huge army of gardeners, who not only changed the appearance of the plant, but also helped the native of the Mediterranean move to the northern regions of the planet.

Cabbage types: white cabbage.

Red and white cabbage are sisters, just like in any family, one daughter became a father, and the other became a mother. If a gardener is blindfolded and given two heads of cabbage (a white Kolobok variety and a red Gako variety), he is unlikely to be able to distinguish them by touch. Is that the strength and knowledge of a scientist-breeder or an agronomist.
The white-headed one is slightly softer, and the red cabbage heads are tougher and rougher. So the Kalibos variety is not inferior to the white sister here.

How to choose a variety.

There are many varieties of white cabbage in our country, which is not surprising - we have too different climatic conditions in different regions and regions.
Some varieties need almost six months of warm weather, and in northern vegetable gardens there are only a hundred days without frost. Therefore, the choice of a variety depends on the specific conditions of growing a crop - there is no universal cabbage variety that would yield an equally good harvest anywhere. Even old, long-grown varieties do not always produce dense, heavy, poured heads. Then the gardeners say that the year, they say, is not a cabbage one now.
Varieties should be selected zoned, they are good for a certain area, they are resistant to the main diseases and pests of this area. For example, the cruciferous flea is unlikely to be able to damage the plants for the Southern Urals, because the varieties were bred taking into account possible locust infestations. And the variety bred for the Moscow region, most likely, an ordinary aphid, along with assistants black ants, will quickly leave the garden bed without seedlings.

Early and late cabbage.

The growing season is the time from full germination to harvest. Sometimes it is counted from planting seedlings in the ground to harvesting.
Very early ripening varieties - from 85 to 125 days. They are divided into ultra-early, early ... Early-maturing and medium-early - from 125 days to 155 days. Medium late from 130 days to 160 days, late maturing from 150 to 220 days.

Cabbage types: red cabbage.

Differs from white-headed leaf color. They can be violet-green, just violet of different color density, violet with a bluish bloom, red-violet, with red covering leaves, like in Kalibos.
But these are external differences. Why red cabbage is useful is a separate topic.
Cabbage with purple heads is never early maturing, only mid-late varieties that take 160 days to grow a head of cabbage. But her heads of cabbage are always dense and do not crack, she is more cold-resistant, less picky about soils and climate. This cabbage suffers less from cruciferous plant diseases.

Terms and schemes for planting seedlings of two types of cabbage.

First, early ripe white cabbage is planted in the ground. In most regions of Russia, this falls on the end of April - beginning of May under the covering material. Here it is important to help the plants to take root, then small cold snaps or frosts are not terrible. If there is no shelter, then you will have to wait for the middle of May.
In the southern regions, it can be planted in late March - early April.
Then late-ripening cabbage is planted in the ground. The usual deadline is mid-May. In the last turn, seedlings of medium early varieties are planted - the end of May.
This arrangement is beneficial: first, the early cabbage will be ready for harvesting, then the mid-ripening queue will come up, and the late-ripening takes more time, it will just guess at the beginning of the autumn frosts in order to be without bitterness in fermentation.

An interesting tablet is given in the old reference book.

Red cabbage is planted at the same time as mid-season and late white cabbage.

Types of cabbage: cauliflower and broccoli.

Both have a cap instead of a head of cabbage, only one has a white or yellowish, and modern varieties have both a purple and orange color, while the other has a cap that is cut off while green. If it turns yellow, then you should not use the cabbage, it has lost its taste, it has become tough.

Cauliflower.

Cauliflower culture is very early ripening: early maturing varieties have 85 days from germination to harvest. There are also very late varieties that take up to 250 days, well, this is not for our climate.
Cauliflower heads are different. The first three forms are familiar to everyone, gardeners do not particularly distinguish them, which is round, which is flat-round.

Romanesco cabbage.

But the cone-bumpy one is distinguished especially, believing that this is some kind of new species, they call the Romanesco cabbage. Its head is very beautiful, it resembles a snail shell twisted in a spiral, but not smooth, but consisting of a huge number of geometrically precise cones.

There are not many large cones, usually 10 or 15, but each cone also consists of smaller cones. Gorgeous! Actually, it's a hybrid of broccoli and colored.

The Romanesco name is the name of the variety. There are also seeds of Tuscan or Early Tuscany on sale, it also has a cone head with tubercles. It was presented quite early, but I have never succeeded, she did not have enough time before the frost, the heads of cabbage showed their originality, but they were small. Small - it is about half a kilogram. Although the description of the variety indicates up to 2 or 3 kilograms.

Broccoli.

Broccoli is a type of cauliflower that is also called asparagus. She is a tireless worker. It grows quickly, yields early, and then grows new shoots with smaller heads for a long time in the leaf axils.
The Italians call this cabbage "brocco" - escape. These are the fertile stepsons of broccoli.
Early cauliflower is planted outdoors in early May, mid-season varieties in mid-June to late June for autumn harvest. The same dates are followed for planting broccoli.

Cabbage types: Savoy and Brussels sprouts.

Curly parsley, ornamental cabbage that can be used in the kitchen like any other, bright beets, herbs and Brussels sprouts.
It has such a beautiful stem with small heads of cabbage that growers could well grow it as focal plants: after all, another name is cabbage rose. But she is so useful that she was assigned a place in the beds.

Savoy cabbage is named after the Italian county of Savoy. It has loose, corrugated leaves that are not suitable for pickling or pickling, but in cabbage soup or stewed it is much tastier than white cabbage.
Early Savoy cabbage is planted in early May, and late-ripening cabbage at the end of May.
Brussels sprouts are always late-ripening for Russians, they are planted at the same time as late-ripening white cabbage, that is, at the end of May.

Types of cabbage: kohlrabi.

This cabbage has almost no leaves, it grows them in order to decorate its head (it is correct to say stem-fruit) with rare hairs.
This cabbage looks more like a turnip, only the leaves grow differently. The ancient Romans called it that - stem turnip. And we believe that this huge stump grows on a thin root.
The good thing is that it does not take up much space, it can be used to compact plantings, because it is also early ripening.

Kohlrabi can be planted in the ground in 2 terms: early in early May, late in mid-June. This extends the use of the crop.

Types of cabbage: Peking cabbage, Chinese cabbage, mizuna.

It looks like a head of cabbage with romaine lettuce. It can be quite dense. In shape, a closed head of cabbage is distinguished, when the upper leaves form something similar to a person in a raincoat, the same wrapped from head to toe, no rain will get wet. And there are open heads of cabbage, at the top with a bell.

Cabbage with a closed head of cabbage is well stored in the cellar until spring, if properly wrapped with cling film. Heads of cabbage in the shape of a bell are stored worse. They are best used in Korean recipes.

Chinese cabbage prized for its thickened leaf petiole, which tastes like a white-headed relative. There are several varieties, Pak Choi dyes its petioles greenish. Does not tolerate transplants, it is necessary to sow in a permanent place.
Mizuna is a new cabbage for us, unusual. There are two own varieties so far, in the State Register you can find the Little Mermaid and the Dude, but they are not zoned.

Layout of seedlings of all types of cabbage.

It all depends on the timing of ripening. The first numbers are the distance between the rows, the second is the distance between the plants in the row:

• early varieties 40-50 x 35-40 cm
• medium early varieties 50-60 x 50-60 cm
• medium late varieties 70 x 60 cm
• late varieties 70-80 x 60-70 cm

You can plant seedlings in a square-nesting way. Then the distances between plants will be as follows:

• early varieties 40 x 40 cm
• medium grades 50 x 50 cm
• late varieties 60 x 60 cm
• late varieties 70 x 70 cm
• late varieties 80 x 80 cm

The difference in spacing when growing in a square-nest method depends on the specific characteristics of the variety or hybrid.

Seedlings are planted in the ground not only at different times, but also the age of the seedlings should be different. If you need a harvest of early cabbage, then the seedlings should be 2 months old, for mid-ripening varieties, the seedling age is 40 days, for late-ripening varieties and hybrids a month and a half.

The eyes are afraid to read, and the hands will grow a wonderful cabbage, but even all the species described here.
In a new article I will tell you why we need to learn to grow new types of cabbage for us, why we need to get used to their tastes. Stay tuned for an article on the benefits of cabbage.