When settling in an apartment, a huge disadvantage is that the installation plan of electrical wiring is not handed over to the residents, in contrast to the private sector, where the executive scheme is a mandatory document when approving the project in the relevant authorities. In this article, we will talk about what are the options for supplying power to various apartments and how to correctly draw up an electrical diagram.

It is better to seek help from specialists who will quickly and efficiently not only draw up a plan, if necessary, fix the malfunction or replace the old wiring. For those who understand, we recall the main ways of connecting electrical circuits:

1. Consecutive - each element is located behind the previous one, such a connection has no nodes. The most common example is a Christmas tree garland, that is, all consumers are on the same wire. A significant drawback - if one element fails, the entire circuit stops working.
2. Parallel - none of the elements are connected to each other, but they are connected by two nodes. In the event of a malfunction of one of the consumers, the rest continue to work.
3. Mixed - when both the first and the second type of connections are used on one section of the electrical circuit.

This figure shows all types of connections: for example, electrical points 1,2,3 are connected in parallel, 4,5,6 - in series, and the entire section is considered combined.

Basic types of wiring

The selected layout is responsible for the entire circuit. In total, there are three main types:

It is rare to find one of the options in its "pure form". In each case, they are mixed to achieve the most effective result.

Drawing up a wiring diagram

Any diagram is an accurate drawing of the plan of all premises with an exact indication of distribution groups and each element of power supply. It is best to place it not on one sheet, but on separate ones, each of which will contain a detailed description of only one group. In the future, such a plan will be easy to read and understand.

All consumption sources should be divided into several groups. By connecting each of them to a separate machine, in the future it will be possible to avoid a complete power outage if it is necessary to repair the wiring in one of the rooms. When installing only one line, a very powerful cable will be required that can withstand the high loads that arise when all consumers are simultaneously connected to the network.

If the electrical panel is located in the apartment, groups are distinguished:

• lighting of living rooms, kitchens and corridors;
• power supply of living rooms;
• electricity supply to the kitchen and corridors;
• lighting and power supply of the bathroom;
• if there is an electric stove in the apartment, it is separated from the rest.

Important: Do not forget to install residual current devices (RCDs), so-called residual current switches, for each group to increase safety. Also, they are necessarily supplied with the electrical wiring of the bathroom and kitchen.

After the groups are designed, it is necessary to determine the connection points for all the main consumers of electricity. This is a washing machine, electric stove, air conditioner, water heater, oven and dishwasher. Now you can determine the installation locations of switches, lamps, junction boxes and sockets and apply them to the rough plan of the apartment's electrician. We carefully connect all the circuits and put down the lengths of the wires.

Tip: Be sure to make a plan for the electrician of the apartment in two copies and put one of them in the family archive with documents. It will be useful to you more than once.

Now a final electrical circuit is being drawn up. For this, an exact plan of all rooms is depicted on each of the sheets, taking into account all sizes. All electrical points are put down using generally accepted designations and are connected by lines that indicate wires. For better readability, we recommend marking the lighting, grounding and power cables with different colors.

It is imperative to mark all the distances: the linear dimensions of the rooms, the distances from the wires to the walls, ceiling, floor, as well as to heating systems. Such a scheme will not only differ in greater clarity, but it will also be possible to make all the necessary calculations using it.

Requirements, conditions, norms

When drawing up a diagram, you should remember about some important requirements for the location of electrical wiring in residential premises:

1. There should be no outlets in the bathroom, except for a transformer-connected shaver socket.
2. Do not connect the grounding contacts of the sockets to neutral wires, as well as to the water supply or heating system. It is dangerous for human life. For this purpose, there is a protective earth wire.
3. If an electric stove is installed in the apartment, then the main machine must have a rating of at least 63A.
4. Wires are laid only vertically and horizontally, located strictly at right angles to each other. You should not change their trajectory, in the future this is fraught with the fact that the probability of breakdown of wires with a nail or a drill increases when performing small repairs.
5. Crossing wires should be avoided. If this is not possible, then the distance between them should be more than 3 mm.
6. When setting the dimensions on the plan, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cable to the floor or ceiling is at least 150 mm, to window frames, door frames and corners - at least 100 mm.
7. All switches and sockets are best positioned at the same height. In this case, the switches are installed to the left of the entrance doors at a height of 800-900 mm, and the sockets are 250-300 mm. In some cases, such as in the kitchen, the distance may vary.
8. The gap between heating pipes and wires must be at least 30 mm.
9. The wires to the sockets are fed from the bottom, and to the switches from the top.

Electrician placement options

In this part of the article, we present typical layouts in apartments of different sizes. Each particular plan will depend on the individual preferences of the owners, but all of them will have sockets, lights and a distribution board. Taking the proposed options as a sample, it is easy to supplement them with the necessary points.

Wiring in a studio apartment

In a one-room apartment, wiring is most often divided into two groups:

- a kitchen and a bathroom, where a large number of electrical appliances are accumulated;

- living room.

This is done in order to obtain a power reserve by distributing the total load on two circuits, and also so that in the event of a short circuit or an open circuit, one line remains in working order.

Typical scheme for a one-room apartment

Electrician of multi-room housing

The above diagram of the apartment wiring of a standard kopeck piece with the location of the electrical panel near the entrance to the apartment is made in a somewhat simplified form. Only the main sources of lighting are presented here, that is, chandeliers, the simplest one-button switches, hidden sockets with a protective contact for grounding.

Typical plan for a two-room apartment

So, as you can see for yourself, you can draw up an electrical diagram yourself. A specialist will do this work much better, but every landlord must be able to correctly determine the places where the wires pass in order to avoid accidental damage by an unsuccessfully driven nail or drill bit.

Video: do-it-yourself electrician

Have you made a diagram of an electrician in your own apartment? now you can start implementing your own project, in which the presented video lesson will help a lot:

The comfort of a modern person's life directly depends on the availability of a reliable source of electrical energy. Almost everything is tied to it - lighting of premises, cooking and storage of food, heating of premises and heating of water, air conditioning and ventilation, means of communication and access to information, dozens of other devices and devices, without which it is already difficult to imagine our existence.

Electricity suppliers nowadays work stably, without serious and prolonged interruptions, and if the consumer pays for services on time, he can count on full access to the available “benefits of civilization”. But only the energy supply companies guarantee the supply of voltage to the "watershed" - to the consumed energy. And then the area of ​​responsibility of the landlord begins, and in his right to arrange all the points of lighting and connection to the power grid in the optimal quantity, from his point of view, and in a place convenient for use. But how to approach the solution of this issue? Will the wiring be installed in the apartment with your own hands, or is it more advisable to use the services of electricians?

It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally. Much depends on preparedness, "savvy" apartment owner in the field of physics, electrical engineering. An important factor is the ability for long-term planning, since replacement work postings are implied for many years to come. And, in the end, the landlord must have a good baggage of skills in the field of general construction work - it also cannot do without this.

In the laying of wiring - a considerable component of general construction work

The purpose of this publication is to give the landlord an idea of ​​the scale of the measures for laying a home electrical network, about basic principles its planning, about the correct distribution of loads, about installation techniques and electro-fittings products, about other important nuances. It will be possible to understand whether it is worth undertaking such a volume of work on your own, or still invite qualified craftsmen. From the point of view of professionals, without practice and without an electrical safety permit, it is better not to perform such work on your own, since there are a lot of nuances that simply cannot be described on the scale of one article - their knowledge comes with many years of experience. However, know basic principles wiring in the apartment will be useful to any owner - it will be possible to control the work of the craftsmen (alas, there are crooks among them), and for the safe operation of housing, such an understanding of the issue will never be superfluous.

When should you start laying new wiring in your apartment?

Anyone who received a new apartment in houses that were erected and rented out according to the old principle - "turnkey" (although, as a rule, with not particularly high quality), knows how, often, inconveniently, ill-conceived points of connection to the power grid were placed there. ... Yes, everything corresponded to the old GOSTs, but the trouble is that these standards were written when the saturation of human life with various electrical appliances was significantly different from the current conditions.

As you acquire new devices, you have to stretch extension cords around the apartment or even lay new lines, since some electrical installations clearly do not have enough calculated power of the old wires. Stretching by llama cables are both a feeling of a certain discomfort, and a clear minus to the interior design of the room.

Moreover, with insufficient connection points, many residents who are poorly versed in electrical engineering make sometimes unimaginable connections using tees, even using them in several cascades. Alas, this is a direct road to a fire hazardous situation in the apartment.

But this is already a direct path to big trouble.

And so, when sooner or later it’s time to make major repairs in your apartment, the most reasonable step is to completely, from the point of entry to the last outlet, replace the wiring and all electro-fittings part by planning the installation of power connection points in the most convenient, rational and safe way.

There is another very important reason to completely change the cable part someday. The fact is that during the construction of high-rise buildings in the old days, for reasons of economy, in most cases the internal wiring was made of aluminum wires. Aluminum has seemingly good electrical conductivity characteristics, but now it is practically not used for these purposes, since its disadvantages significantly outweigh the advantages.

• First, the metal itself is very soft. It is easily deformed, squeezed through using contact screws, washer terminals, etc. - two times in one place to make contact vp poison whether it will work out - the wire will simply break in a thinned place. That is, repair work with aluminum wiring is extremely difficult. It is very difficult to solder it, and in the conditions of home wiring installation, it will be extremely irrational to use such a technology.
• However, aluminum is ductile only when it is, shall we say, "fresh". This metal has an amazing property - the electrochemical processes occurring in it during the passage of current, over time, radically change the properties of the substance. After 15 ÷ 20 years of operation (and for wiring, this is a very short period), aluminum conductors become brittle. Sudden, almost unreasonable, are not excluded, which can be very difficult to find, and even more difficult to eliminate, since the wire can break even with careful attempts to make a new twist or bend it for a terminal connection.

• Another striking property: it would seem that it is a very corrosion-resistant metal, but there it was! If at least a small amount of water gets on the conductor, then electrocorrosion processes are inevitable under the influence of electricity. Moreover, they can be invisible externally - seemingly the whole conductor inside can be "eaten away" so much that even a small one causes heating, arcing or failure. Sometimes any touch of such a wire leads to its breaking off.

Compare with the picture above - is there a difference?

In other words, if you seriously deal with electrical issues, then you should not hesitate to replace all the old aluminum wiring with on reliable copper. Its electrical parameters are even higher, plasticity is good (but not excessive), and does not change either from time to time or from operation under heavy loads. The cost of copper wires, of course, is significantly higher, but the wiring in the apartment is done, as already mentioned, for decades to come, and it is simply unreasonable to save on such issues. Along with the replacement, you can simultaneously solve all the issues with the optimization of the placement of all elements of the home electrical network.

If the owner bought a new apartment, in a house that was rented out on the "do it yourself" principle, then there is nothing to think about - it is necessary to carefully plan the entire apartment electricity network, taking into account your vision of the location of electrical appliances and furniture in the rooms, and literally do the wiring first - even before pouring floors, finishing walls and ceilings. Below in the text it will become clear why this is so.

A few more arguments in favor of not modernizing or repairing, but overhauling the old wiring.

1. In the old days, grounding loops in residential buildings were not considered mandatory, and all intra-building networks were laid through the TN-C system, when the working zero and grounding were brought to a single wire (PEN) at the power substation. The only advantage of this approach is ease of installation and minimal material consumption, since all the sockets in the apartment were entangled exclusively by two wires - zero and phase.

TN-C system - "the day before yesterday" of electrical engineering

Life-threatening voltages are very likely to occur during a reset or breakdown on the metal housing of electrical appliances. Moreover, this type of contact connection does not allow residual current devices (RCDs) and some modern switching power supplies to work correctly. Today such a system is not used, in some places it is even prohibited by law, and it must be changed to one of the more advanced systems: TN-S or TN-C-S.

TN-S is more often used in private houses in which their own is organized. Although, in apartment buildings, grounding buses connected by welding and passing from the external ground loop along all floors can be organized.

But nevertheless, the TN-C-S system is used more often in multi-storey residential buildings, in which deafly grounded the neutral is divided into two conductors - a working zero and a ground loop, directly in the access switchboard.

In any of the last two cases, three contacts are already used for wiring - phase, zero and ground. You can immediately mention the color coding of these wires - one must comply with the current standards.

Please note that the color of the phase wire may vary. But here zero and grounding - they have a mandatory color, so that it cannot be confused when carrying out electrical work.

By the way, several phase conductors can be enclosed in one cable. They will differ in color from each other, but at the same time, two conductors will still stand out with their obligatory color - "working zero" and "ground".

Many modern electrical appliances are equipped with a three-pin plug. Now, an important clarification needs to be made. When installing new sockets, the owners, of course, try to install three-pin ones as well. However, if your apartment has not yet organized electrical wiring according to the TN-S or TN-C-S schemes, then in no case should you make jumpers between the zero contact and the grounding contact directly on the outlet.

If the life and health of your family and friends is not indifferent to you, never do such "grounding" !!!

What can be done at the switchboard level - absolutely unacceptable right at the connection point. This not only will not give the desired effect, but will also dramatically increase the level of danger. The likelihood of electric shock or a fire hazard with such a connection is enormous! Better not to have a ground connection at all than to organize something like that.

Better yet, install the new wiring according to all the rules!

2. The second important argument is that the very principle of wiring, which was previously used in residential construction, is extremely imperfect. We are talking about the so-called "dosing" of the load. To understand - remember the old distribution boards. Electricity meter, two machines (or fuses - plugs) - that's all. Two wires went into the apartment, were lost somewhere in the thickness of the wall, and from them were made in the contact boxes branches to each lighting point or outlet. In a word, as thin branches extend from the trunk of a tree, layers were made from the main wires. Again: from the point of view of economy - it is profitable, but in all other respects - does not stand up to scrutiny.

This system was literally teeming with twists on every branch, and any unnecessary connection of wires is always a vulnerable point in the wiring. If it was necessary to de-energize one of the rooms, it was necessary to turn off the power in the entire apartment. Even a minor accident, an accidental short circuit on one of the branches led to the shutdown of the entire apartment network. Well, if something serious happened (breakage or burnout of the cable hidden in the wall), then the search for an emergency site and the repair work turned into a very difficult problem.

All this can be easily avoided if you organize a zoned wiring system - from the point of entry, that is, from the apartment switchboard, separate power lines with the required wire cross-section corresponding to the load are laid into each room, on each electrical appliance of increased power, on every a group of outlets or lighting. Yes, of course, you will need much more cable here, but the home power grid will become convenient and safe to use, it will be easy to give in to the necessary modernization or repair.

The backbone is planning your home power grid

So, the first step in any case is whether major repairs will be carried out. or the wiring will be laid in a new apartment, there is always a drawing up of a diagram of the apartment's electrical network. And it's best to do it yourself - no one except the owners can do it better.

Perhaps someone doubts their ability to carry out such planning. It's okay - there is no need to rush, we do everything consistently, step by step. And you will see that it is not that difficult at all.

First, you need to prepare a plan for your apartment. There may be several options here. First, you can make a copy of the technical passport. Secondly, it should not be difficult for a real man to draw a rough diagram (best of all, of course, to scale) on an ordinary sheet of paper. Thirdly, if you wish, you can find a typical project of the house in which the apartment is located. (Such a document may be in the DEZ, another operating or design organization. It is possible that the Internet will come to the rescue). And fourthly, modern computer engineering applications (CAD) allow you to quickly and accurately execute the desired drawing.

For example, let's take a one-room apartment scheme, made in literally 10 minutes in CAD. The planning procedure for an apartment electrical network with a different number and arrangement of rooms does not change - the principles remain the same.

In this case, Room 1 is a combined bathroom, Room2 is an entrance hall, Room3 is a kitchen, and Room4 is a living room.

It is also not bad to have a version of this drawing and with the stated dimensions: it will then be easier to determine the required amount of cable products from it.

The same drawing - dimensioned to scale

In order not to be afraid of mistakes and some kind of accidental damage to the drawing, you can print it out on a printer or make photocopies in the required quantity - for drafts, taking as a basis for a start a "bare" diagram - only walls, windows and doors.

Initial "clean" scheme - we will start working with it

Now you need to imagine how the existing pieces of furniture and electrical appliances for a wide variety of purposes will be arranged on this area. There is no need to rush - it is imperative to take into account not only what has already been purchased and is waiting for installation, but also the planned new items in the future at least years by 5 ÷ 10. For example, children grow up, and after a couple of years in their room it will be necessary to put a desk with a lamp, a computer, a TV set, etc. In the living room, in long-term plans to install modern climatic equipment (air conditioning or convectors), and in the kitchen, sooner or later, the hostess will want a dishwasher and a multifunctional oven.

Moreover, it is necessary to arrange all these pieces of furniture and household appliances on the diagram in places where, with a certain degree of assumption, they will be installed. A very awkward situation will happen if, after completing the laying of new wiring, after a very short time, you have to get out the old extension cords! Why then were all these repair torments?

It would probably be wise to hold an "extended family council" on this matter in order to come to a consensus on the interior design and filling of the premises. And now we turn to the drawing again - we begin to "put" everything in its place. There is no need to strive for special principles in terms of conventions - this scheme is working. The main thing is to number all objects and devices, put them in a description - a table, and it is desirable - to highlight on the diagram those that require a mandatory connection to a power source, for example, shading in a different color (in the diagram considered for an example, they are highlighted in red).

So, by room:

Virtually "put" everything in its place

In the living room:

1 - folding sofa bed.

2 - bedside table with a night light and a connection point, such as a phone charger.

3 - air conditioner - split system.

4 - Plasma TV with a home theater sound system, a receiving receiver or other digital television equipment.

5 - dining table with chairs.

6 - cabinets.

7 - a work area with a computer and peripherals.

Those points that require connection can also be highlighted in the text.

On the kitchen:

8 - fridge.

9 - dining table with chairs.

10 and 11- work tables (tabletops) on which they can be stationary or periodically kitchen appliances - microwave oven, multicooker, food processor, blender, electric kettle and others.

12 - electric stove with oven.

13 - washing.

14 - Dishwasher.

In the bathroom and toilet:

15 - Washer.

16 - boiler.

17 - sink with spot lighting and a hair dryer connection point.

18 – toilet bowl.

19 - bathroom.

In the hall:

20 - closet with additional spot illumination.

So, the main "consumers" are highlighted in the diagram. It is clear that backup sockets are also needed (for example, turn on an iron, vacuum cleaner, and other small household appliances) - their placement can also be foreseen so that they do not turn out to be uselessly located behind massive pieces of furniture.

You can immediately apply the location of the sockets on a separate clean "blank".

In this case, you can, of course, use any conventions that you understand. But if the owner wants his idea to become understandable to a specialist electrician, then it is better to use badges accepted in a professional environment. Know them all - not necessary at all, the most basic will be enough. For example, those indicated in the table:

Symbol	What does the diagram mean
	Power shield
	Energy meter
	Single pole circuit breaker
	Two-pole circuit breaker
	Residual current device (RCD)
	Flush-mounted socket outlet with protective earthing contact
	Double socket outlet with protective earthing contact, for concealed installation
	Three-pole socket, with protective earthing contact, for surface installation
	Two-pole socket, with protective earthing contact, increased moisture resistance (IP44 - IP55)
	One-key switch
	Two-key switch
	Block - two switches and socket, flush-mounted

So, let's place the sockets on the diagram:

Now is the time to think about lighting points. They can be placed both in the center of the room (that's when you need dimensions to scale), and in any order, emphasizing the illumination in one direction or another, or by organizing several points (tiers) of illumination. In our case, place the lamps in the center of the rooms. And immediately mark the places for the switches. They are usually located inside the room (with the exception of bathrooms and, sometimes, kitchens). A typical installation location is near the door, on the side of the lock. Although this is not at all a dogma, the owner can himself determine the most convenient place, in his opinion. For example, you can place a block of switches in the hallway, which will be used to illuminate the corridor itself, to the bathroom and even to the kitchen.

Then, we "hang" the lamps and place the switches

We have decided on the location, now it is necessary to proceed to planning the route of laying the wires. Here, various options are possible, depending on the degree of readiness of the premises from the point of view of construction, on the planned methods of finishing, on the location of the entrance to the apartment, on the preferences of the owners themselves.

Video: Tips for planning an apartment electrical network

Methods for laying electrical wiring in an apartment

Let's make a reservation right away - only apartment options will be considered, that is, with concrete or brick walls. If someone needs information about, then he can get it in the corresponding publication of our portal.

So, what are the acceptable ways of laying power cables used in apartment conditions:

A. If the walls are in a "draft" version, and in the future they are planned to be covered with a layer of plaster or covered with plasterboard, then the wiring can be placed directly on the existing surface in corrugated plastic pipes (if the thickness of the future finishing layer allows it) or simply open, provided that the cable has reliable double or triple insulation.

Video: option for laying wires along the walls of the apartment

B. If the plaster layer has already been applied to the walls, or it is planned to be too thin, unable to close the cabling, then you will have to make grooves in the wall to lay the wires in them.

This business, of course, is very tedious and dusty, but it happens that there is nowhere to go - this approach is often the only option. When laying wires in such grooves, they are fixed in them either with plaster blotches, or with special plastic dowel brackets inserted into the holes drilled for them.

The wire can be fixed in the strobe with a special bracket ...
... or just plaster "blotches"

The grooves cannot be cut in completely arbitrary places. There are certain rules in this regard - there are areas near window and door openings, external and internal corners, near gas mains, where making strobes and laying cables is unacceptable. Graphic information in this regard - in the diagrams below:

Be sure to pay attention to one essential detail. All hidden gaskets to sockets and switches from junction boxes must be carried exclusively vertically. This is explained very simply - it will be so easy to trace the route of the wire covered with plaster without any special devices.

But to do this is strictly prohibited.

There should be no ledges and turns, no "straight lines" at an angle. There is no need to hope, they say, "I will remember." This is very quickly forgotten, and besides, another person can try to drill a hole or hammer in a nail. It can end very sadly.

When laying cables in grooves, you must also have in your arsenal a crown for a punch, which will be required to cut out sockets for under sockets and distribution (junction) boxes.

Now let's talk about the main sections along which the wires will be laid from the switchboard to the junction boxes.

1. The first option is exactly the same as described above, that is, horizontally along the upper edge of the wall, in a groove or in a corrugated pipe. The option is extremely time consuming and costly - for example, to supply power to an outlet at the opposite end of a large room, you will need to go around all corners - it will take a lot of cable.

2. If screeds on the floors are still poured in a new apartment or an apartment undergoing major repairs, then the lines can be laid in plastic or metal pipes over the floor surface. Here it will be possible to lay routes to the junction boxes the shortest by. In the future, a screed or other floor covering will completely hide these cable glands.

By the way, with such a "lower" arrangement of the apartment wiring, in some cases it is possible to do without making strobes at all or to reduce this operation to a minimum. For laying wires in such situations, special electrical skirting boards are often used, on which there are already mounted ones.

And that's not all. A new trend is becoming widespread - special kits that include electrotechnical skirting boards, cable channels, junction boxes, sockets and switches, others electrical fittings products.

Wiring kit - everything is thought out, down to the smallest detail

Of course, not for all styles of room decoration, this approach is applicable, but it also has a right to exist. And it enjoys, by the way, a constantly growing demand, as it minimizes dirty and complex construction work.

3. Another option that helps to significantly reduce the consumption of wires is the use of the ceiling surface for laying trunk routes. This, of course, does not eliminate the need to make grooves for laying wires along the walls and sockets for installing sockets and boxes. But from the switchboard to the junction boxes, the wires can be attached to special clips directly to the ceiling, laying routes along the shortest distance. By the way, absolutely nothing prevents you from placing the junction boxes themselves on the plane of the ceiling (however, it will be difficult to get to them later if you need to carry out any repair or adjustment work).

The ceiling is a great place to place electrical wiring. Of course, subject to its further decorative finishing

True, all this will be possible only if it is planned to install a suspended or stretch ceiling, which will hide the cabling. In a word, if there is an opportunity to mount a suspended or suspended ceiling - you must agree - a lot of electrical problems will simply "dissolve". As a last resort, it is quite possible to come up with some original suspension structure along the wall, in which it will be possible to hide the laid wires.

Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair

Cables and wires for construction and repair

We continue drawing up the scheme

Let's go back to our diagram - the points where the power supply needs to be connected are already marked on it, but the routes have not yet been laid. It's time to do it.

The reader probably already understood how the highways are laid, and in relation to his apartment he will be able to decide whether it will be a wall gasket, or it can be carried out in some sections along the shortest path if a floor or a stream plane is used.

In our example, the tracks will be along the walls.

So, each room should have its own junction box (at least one). It is located, as a rule, not far from the line entrance from the switchboard into the room. It is more advisable to place the bathroom box in the corridor so that the contact connections in it are not exposed to high humidity once again.

In the diagram, we conventionally mark the junction boxes with orange circles.

We continue drawing up the diagram - we outline the location of the mounting boxes

We begin to "pull the wires" to each box from the farthest outlets. It is better not to place the sockets with a loop, that is, in series, - voltage drops on the far side may occur if those that lie closer to the box are rebooted. Better not to stint and lay your own cable to each.

By the way, if the sockets are located "coaxially" on both sides of one wall, you can connect them with wires coming from one box and located in one strobe (this example specifically shows such a possibility - an outlet in the living room and in the kitchen). Of course, this will allow you to save a lot on the laying of strobes. In this case, you can use one common cable - however, do not forget that the cross-section of the wire going to such a block must correspond to the total possible load.

To make it easier to understand in the drawing, we denote the wires to the sockets, for example, in red.

"Stretching the wires" from boxes to sockets

Will change the color of the pencil to green, and "lay" the wires responsible for lighting - from the junction boxes to switches and lamps.

It does the same with lighting - lamps and switches

Now we will put a power distribution board on the diagram and lay "mains" from it to soldering boxes. You can, of course, limit yourself to one cable per room, which will power both lighting and sockets. However, we have already talked about this, it is wiser to divide them into two different streams. If, of course, they allow financial resources, since in this case more cable products, and machines, and RCDs will be required. In a word, it is up to the owner to decide, since both options are, in principle, permissible.

The diagram shows an option for combined wiring for power and lighting (thickened blue lines from the panel to the junction boxes).

Now - the line of lines from the switchboard to the junction boxes

And finally, one more nuance. To some devices that consume high-power current, completely separate lines are laid from the switchboard, which have their own automatic machines, RCDs, and wiring strokes. They must not have any other connections, branches, etc. along their entire length. Very often, such lines do not end with an ordinary outlet, but with a reinforced, special type. And in some cases, high-power electrical appliances are connected to the network not through sockets at all, but through those installed directly next to them.

On the neck diagram, we will draw separate power lines from the switchboard to the electric oven in the kitchen and to the boiler in the combined bathroom (thick purple lines).

We "connect" especially loaded lines (oven and boiler) and the entrance from the entrance. The circuit is ready!

And, finally, we will complete the scheme by drawing on it a general entrance to the apartment from the access switchboard.

So, the circuit is ready, and you can start to apply it in practice. And first of all, it will help to calculate how much and what kind of wire will be required for the installation of a new apartment electrical network.

You can proceed to work "on the ground" - actually transfer the drawing to the walls of the premises, already accurately determining the location of boxes, lines of strobes, installation points of sockets and switches - all basic principles were agreed by us, the drawing is at hand - get down to business!

Surely during the markup, questions will arise - on? There are no strict rules here, and the recommendations are detailed in our publication, specially devoted to this problem.

Marking lines drawn on the walls and a scaled drawing will help you calculate the number of wires for each section. But what wire cross-section will be required?

What wire cross-section are needed for laying?

Any line in the diagram, leaving the switchboard, is equipped with an automatic device of appropriate power and a residual current device (RCD), with its own operating parameters at a certain leakage current. Plus, a common automatic machine for the entire apartment network and a common RCD must be installed. All these mentioned values ​​directly depend on the total load on each selected section, and then they already give the overall result for the whole apartment.

So knowing enough exactly, what electrical appliances will be used on each of the sections of the apartment network, you can calculate the total load on it. For this, the passport data of the devices (devices) are taken, the probability of their simultaneous operation is taken into account, and the power consumption is found by the usual summation. If there are no product passports, then you can search for their data on the Internet or simply use the average table of the power of the most popular household appliances and devices:

Appliance type	Approximate power consumption
Hot tub (Jacuzzi)	2000-2500 watts.
Mini sauna stove	10-15 kW
Warm floor	0.7-1.5 kW
Solarium home	1.5-2.5 kW
Split air conditioner	about 2500 W
Fan	up to 900 W
Lighting devices (depending on the lamps used and the number of horns)	100 - 1000 W
Radio (Music Center)	100-250 W
Stationary computer with LCD monitor + peripherals (printer, scanner, modem, router, etc.)	up to 800 W
Television	100-200 Watt
Home theater sound system	up to 750 W
Vacuum cleaner	up to 1200 W
Iron	1000-2000 W
Electric massager	up to 300 W
Hair dryer	500 - 1000 W
Gadget Chargers	about 50 W

For the calculation, you can use the formula that allows you to determine the current consumption at each section of the network.

I cmind= Psum/ Unom

Icmind- total load current in this section of the circuit.

Psum- total power consumption of electrical appliances simultaneously included in the circuit.

Unom- rated voltage in the network (in our case, this is household voltage 220 V).

If, for example, a section is calculated, on which a computer (750 W), a heater (1.5 kW), a table lamp 100 W will work at the same time with a high degree of probability, and an electric kettle will periodically turn on (another 1.75 kW), then we get the total power consumption, reaching at peak load up to 4.1 kilowatts. Substituting this value in the formula, we get the current consumption in 18.6 A.

When carrying out professional calculations, they use more complex methods that take into account a lot of all the nuances of the network (this is more related to a three-phase 380 volt network). In conditions of a not too branched and loaded single-phase home network, it is recommended for insurance to simply add another 5 amperes to the result. As a result, in our example it turns out 18,6 + 5 = 23,6 ≈ 24 A

Now all that remains is to go into the table (given below) and find the most acceptable section of the copper cable, depending on what type of wire will be used.

Copper section
	single core wires				twin-core wires	three-core wires
	single laid wire	a bunch of two wires	a bunch of three wires	a bunch of four wires	single two-core wire	single three-core wire
0.5	11	-	-	-	-	-
0,75	15	-	-	-	-	-
1,0	17	16	15	14	15	14
1,5	23	19	17	16	18	15
2,5	30	27	25	25	25	21
4,0	31	38	35	30	32	27
6,0	50	46	42	40	40	34
10,0	80	70	60	50	55	50
16,0	100	85	80	75	80	70
25,0	140	115	100	90	100	85
35,0	170	135	125	115	125	100
50,0	215	185	170	150	160	135

The load on the section in the given example falls out quite serious. According to the table, it turns out that either three single wires laid in a single bundle, each with a cross section of 2.5 mm, or one three-core wire with a cross section of 4 mm, can cope with such a load.

It - yet one argument is that it is recommended to run its own cable to each outlet (socket strip). Work with wires of large cross-section, connecting them to electro-fittings devices or conducting their contact connections is very difficult due to the sharply increasing rigidity.

Is it so important to calculate this cross section? Maybe it makes sense to lay approximately the same wire in all sections?

Very important, and even from multiple points of view!

First. A wire of too small a cross-section may not fully cope with its task. It will start to warm up, which over time leads to damage to the insulation, breakdown of contacts on the terminals or in twists. This is the straight path to a short circuit, that is, due to electric shock or fire.

Second. The owner has overdone it and will lay oversized wires. For fun, go to the store and compare the prices of copper wires of the same brand, but of different cross-sections, for example, 1.5 and 2.5 mm. The difference will probably surprise you and make you think that it is still worth calculating the load in order not to pay extra for absolutely unnecessary, overpriced options.

The experience of qualified electricians who have changed the wiring in more than one hundred apartments makes it possible to roughly depict the home network in the following picture:

The diagram shows some possible sections of the apartment network, indicating the recommended cable section, the approximate total load, the rating of the circuit breaker and the response threshold (leakage current) of the RCD. Of all the variety of cable products, most experts unanimously recommend VVGng (index N G says that it is enclosed in non-combustible insulation).

This scheme is by no means a dogma. The method of planning the network and its calculation, which you familiarized yourself with above, has not been canceled, since it is simply impossible to take into account all the nuances in each individual apartment.

By the way, this is especially true for modern kitchens, which have recently become literally "stuffed" with electronics and electrical equipment. It is enough just to look at the table to see in what range both functionality and power consumption of kitchen accessories lie.

Household appliance type	Average power consumption	Features of connection to power supply
Electric stove or hob	from 3500 to 12000 W	Individually routed power line
Electric oven	from 2500 to 10000 W
Washing machine	from 1500 to 3000 W
Water heater	from 2500 to 7000 W
Dishwasher	from 1500 to 3500 W
Microwave	from 700 to 2500 W	connection to a regular 16 A socket is allowed
Refrigerator (only at the time of start-up)	from 500 to 2000 W
Electric kettle	from 700 to 1500 W
Food processor (combine)	from 500 to 1500 W
Bread maker, double boiler, etc.	from 700 to 2000 W
Toaster	up to 1000 W
Cooker hood	from 500 to 1500 W
Waste shredder	from 400 to 1000 W

To connect such a mass of equipment, it is necessary to use a remarkable imagination in terms of its location in the kitchen, and to carry out scrupulous power calculations. Judge for yourself - how difficult it would seem to organize at least such an arrangement of sockets:

The kitchen is a very special room in terms of electrical wiring

And this, as they say, is not yet the most "fancy" option. Nevertheless, if you calmly sit down with a sheet of paper, a pencil and a calculator, everything can be calculated very clearly and with high quality.

So, the reader has learned to draw up a diagram, he is familiar with the calculation rules, basic principles the laying of the cable part is already known to him. You can safely take up work, and let the articles of our portal become assistants in this, which will tell in detail about the techniques, types, about, connecting powerful electrical appliances and much more. All this is in sections and.

And one last remark. The author of this publication is fully aware that any teacher of electrical engineering would have slapped a "juicy two" for the quality of the executed graphic circuits, therefore, perhaps, critical remarks on this matter will appear in the comments. However, the goal was not to teach site visitors drawing techniques. The main thing is for the reader to understand the principle, using which he can independently plan his home electrical network.

Video: basic concepts of self-installation of apartment wiring

Do you want to change the wiring in the apartment with your own hands? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician permit, or an electrician diploma. It is enough to be an electrician in the shower, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you do not have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself - this article is for you.

Calculations and scheme

Single-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram of your apartment... You don't need to be an engineer to do this, because you don't need a sophisticated linear circuit in accordance with GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing "by hand". The wiring diagram is needed in order to properly spread the cable around the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.

Wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household appliances you will include in them, how many and what lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all the sockets in the line are through-type, then with each subsequent outlet there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many outlets on one loaded line, for example, in the kitchen, it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Determine the required number of lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines by zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bath sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to work without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate section. And if, on the same line (for example, to the kitchen), there are several consumers (and it will be so), then it is necessary to calculate their total capacity and leave safety margin of the cable, that is, select the desired section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: a 40W incandescent lamp, a 6000W hob, etc.

In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. - For outlet lines, use a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm2, for all lighting 1.5 mm2, and for a hob or instantaneous water heater 4 mm2 - and you will be fine!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, zero, earth). Zero is always blue, earth is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color... If you change the wiring, do not save on material, - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because all modern devices have an additional protective terminal, and protective automatics work only with the use of grounding .

It is best to use a VVG-ng cable to replace the wiring. You can of course use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft must be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and it is flat, which allows making smaller strobes, and it is possible to push the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross section of 1.5mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only a cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is Gostovsky VVG ng. This is a very important point in preparation for replacing the wiring! You can save money on automatics or sockets (you can always change them), but do not save on the cable - take a good one.

Markup

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located, the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after repair is 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling.If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and put a mark every 7 cm (box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is "like everyone else" or "how they do" - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for kindergartens, kindergartens and schools where sockets and switches are installed at a height not lower than 160 cm.... Everything else, especially at your home, you can do as you like. For example, some make rosettes in the slopes of windows or even in the floor.

Preparing for chipping

Usually, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as cable routing under skirting boards or trunks.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a stretch or false ceiling, if they are not planned to be done, then the ceiling must be channeled. And since the monolith of the ceilings shading is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We highly do not recommend shaping the ceiling on your own, since you need to know the technology of correct shading so that later the whole house does not collapse.

In cases where plastering of the ceiling is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the slab of the monolith with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.

With a concrete crown 70mm or 68mm (nozzle for a perforator), holes are drilled for the socket outlets. A groove cutter or a grinder is used to cut the grooves for laying the cable. The grooves in the walls should be strictly vertical rather than horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a floor screed in corrugation, the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save money on corrugation, if you do not have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then corrugation is not needed!

Noisy work

When you start hammering in the walls, do not forget about the law. It is possible to make noise with a puncher in apartment buildings only at a strictly defined time, each region of the Russian Federation has its own procedures. For example, in Dagestan it is necessary to obtain permission from the elders, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they begin to hammer back. Better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Gutting

Before you start chasing, it is highly desirable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of the sockets, since all sockets will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, chipping will be much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to cut a monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will chase, so as not to touch the communications - old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you cannot determine where the old wiring is going, call an electrician, or just turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For the convenience of work - make yourself a temporary carrier (extension cord).

The hole for the sockets is channeled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in the concrete, mark a circle with a crown, after which any drill, no less than the depth of the crown, drill as many holes as possible around the circumference. After that, chipping with a crown will go much faster, you can say - it will go smoothly. When hitting the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown, in extreme cases, you can knock it down with a spatula. It is better to use a more powerful puncher (do not forget about the neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Strobes for cable laying go from the socket to the floor or ceiling. It is necessary to lower the strobe down so that the cable calmly lies in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these cases, but in extreme cases, you can do with a grinder, with a diamond disc on a stone. In the case of a grinder, take care of your health, put on a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to isolate dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

It is not difficult to lay the cable on the floor, it is enough to grab it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when the screed is being made. Usually, the cable is laid along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall), so that later you know exactly where the cable goes.

It is worth noting that it is better not to lay the cable under doorways! To lay the cable on the floor, it is better to make through holes between rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damage to the cable when installing interior sills.

Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can fix the cable in the groove using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (stucco). Alabaster quickly hardens, so it is also convenient to use for mounting socket outlets. But before smearing the strobes with them, it is necessary to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fixed in the groove and does not protrude anywhere, the grooves can be covered with ordinary plaster mixture, this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Soldering (or junction boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today professional electricians will tell you that there is no need to install junction boxes in well-timed apartments! They can play a trick on your harness. In the event of a short circuit, otrania, flooded neighbors, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It is easy to refuse junction boxes - do all the switching in socket boxes! This requires DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Usually, deep sockets are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out outlet lines, then deep sockets are also installed under the sockets.

Installation of an electrical panel

The most budgetary option is to install all the circuit breakers on the staircase in a common shield, where your old automatic machines and a counter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to lead all the cables into the driveway. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead flap, it's up to you. Built-in looks more aesthetic, but it is easier to mount a consignment note. All lines from the apartment go to the shield, and already one thick cable goes from it to the driveway, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each separate line has its own automatic protection device, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. It is impossible to insert more than two lines into one machine according to the rules, if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. The most necessary condition is the installation of overload and short-circuit protection circuit breakers (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).

RCDs are best installed on the line of high-risk zones: wet rooms, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the whole apartment! One common RCD is installed only with the aim of saving. The consequences of such savings are complex diagnostics of a leakage malfunction, + the whole apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, on lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.

Installation of additional types of protection is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection against cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm, etc.

Assembling the shield

One of the most crucial moments is the assembly of the shield. If you use a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). In single-module machines, only phase wires are inserted (phase L marking - can be any color except blue and yellow), all the rest (zero N blue, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their buses. When using RCDs or difavtomats (machine and RCD "in one bottle"), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marking N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers from wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and zeros along the machines with a cable with a cross section of 4 sq.mm. or 6 sq.mm. Also, after tightening all cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fall into the clamp, or it is bad to hold on to it.

Final assembly. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed last, after a clean finish (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule of good editing is good contact!

Most of the sockets in your apartment are loop-through, that is, through them, the cable goes to each subsequent outlet with a loop. In order to avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap outlets (for example IEK), they have a very bad (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And second, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging at it. If the wire jumped out of the clamp, it means that you did not clamp it well or the clamp turned out to be defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are possessed by the products of LeGrande, and Schneider.

To make the frames fit evenly and tightly, set the group of sockets or switches in level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small screws from two opposite sides close to the wall. Then screw the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to hit the wires inside the socket with spacers or self-tapping screws!

Trace the position of the cable in the socket box so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long to touch the wires.

At each stage of the repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finish.

In the practice of any home craftsman, questions periodically arise related to the completion of the electrical circuit, when it is required to install an additional outlet, hang a new lamp or completely re-equip the room.

The question immediately arises: how is the electrical wiring diagram made, where should I connect to it?

The situation is aggravated when the building is old, the apartment has changed several owners, each of whom carried out repairs to his taste. As a result, all the electrical connection points are hidden inside the decorative coatings, and the routes for laying its cables and wires are unknown.

Principles of constructing an electrical circuit in an apartment

Any wiring is created according to general methods and is somehow different from all other laying schemes.

Mandatory elements of the scheme

The basis for creating electrical wiring is, to which electricity is supplied from the supplying organization. It can be installed at the entrance to a private house, on the staircase of the entrance of a multi-storey building - storey or directly inside the apartment.

Electricity in the apartment panel from the input immediately goes to the electricity meter - a device that takes into account its consumption. After it, it is distributed along the supply lines to consumers by cables and wires.

To protect the circuits, automatic devices are used, which are cut into the circuit inside the apartment panel in front of the cable going to the consumer.

Distinctive features

Each specific wiring diagram necessarily differs from similar developments due to the use of numerous designs of all kinds of models of electrical devices, wires and cables with their installation according to standard or individual projects by different methods.

Methods for supplying voltage to consumers in an apartment

The electric current from each operating household appliance is summed up in the apartment panel and counted by the meter through which the total load passes. Therefore, the current-carrying lines of the apartment panel are made with a thick section, excluding thermal overload of the wiring, aging of the insulation.

To consumers from the apartment panel, wires are laid with a smaller section: the load through them is lower. But the material and cross-section of the core are selected according to reference books that take into account the operating conditions of the wires and the power transmitted through them.

In this case, there are three possible ways to implement the scheme:

a loop (buses), when a common wiring line is created through junction boxes, and from them there are branches to electrical points (sockets, switches, lamps);

the radial method, which consists in supplying voltage to each outlet with a separate cable that goes directly without breaks and connections from the protection of the apartment panel;

in a combined way, combining elements of the first two principles.

Voltage supply by loop

All ends of electrical wires and cables are wired inside the junction boxes. An exclusion map is created to connect them.

An example is the electrical wiring diagram used in multi-storey residential buildings of forty years of construction. As an example, consider the structure of an old one-room apartment wiring.

An electric meter and two circuit breakers were installed inside the driveway. One was used for the outlet group, and the second was used for lighting. From them, cables or, more often, wires - "aluminum noodles", went by a loop to three (sometimes four) junction boxes:

1. rooms;

3. bathroom unit and bathroom.

Both loops were laid in parallel lines to each box and were commutated in it. Since earlier the loads on the wiring were small, separation by wire thickness was not applied. The entire circuit was completely assembled with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 aluminum conductors.

The junction box for the bathroom and the bathroom was installed in the corridor and connected with wires to control the lighting of both rooms.

The diagram shows an option for protecting consumers connected separately to sockets and lighting devices. The principle of managing consumers by their location in rooms was also often used. For example, AV # 1 protects the kitchen and bathroom equipment, and # 2 protects the corridor and room.

Inside one room, several sockets were often connected with a loop, and the lighting was done with a three-arm chandelier controlled by a two-button switch.

Voltage supply to consumers can be performed according to other principles, when part of the load is connected through the third backup circuit breaker of the apartment panel. To determine how to connect sockets and switches, proceed as follows:

light all the lamps and plug in working electrical appliances, for example, a table lamp or a razor;

disconnect any circuit breaker in the dashboard and monitor the consumers who have stopped working;

record for memory;

turn off the next machine and fix the changes;

analyze information.

Radial stressing

The dashboard distributes power to the circuit breakers as in the previous case. In this situation, they are more carefully selected according to the technical characteristics for each consumer according to the individual load current.

The cable connects sockets, switches and luminaires directly to the circuit breakers without any additional connections.

With this principle, the electrical wiring provides increased reliability of operation by disconnecting from the protection only the consumer on which the malfunction occurred. However, in this case it is required:

increased number of circuit breakers;

large dimensions of the apartment panel for their placement;

long cable lines.

Due to this, the material costs for creating the circuit and its cost increase.

Combined voltage supply

The method combines two developments: a loop and a radial connection, taking into account their application to local conditions. Reasonable cost savings are created by choosing the right loads.

Principles of laying cable lines

Whichever wiring diagram is chosen, for its implementation it is necessary to connect the automatic devices of the apartment panel with the consumers with wires.

There are the following ways of routing cables on building structures:

on the ceiling;

on the walls;

under the floor;

mixed method.

Ceiling cable routing

The traditional old scheme, which is often resorted to today.

Cables from sockets, switches and the panel rise along vertical lines to the ceiling and under it go into the ceiling. When it becomes necessary to turn and connect the wires to the junction box, for example, to connect a switch, then create only a right angle of at least 15 cm from the top.

This method allows in the future to avoid accidental damage to hidden wiring when drilling walls for attaching shelves, paintings and other elements.

Laying cables along the wall

The method resembles the previous one, but the cable lines are directed only along the walls.

Obstacles can be encountered on the way of the electric main: water supply, sewerage, heating, gas pipelines. They must be bypassed, creating an air gap as an insulating, dividing section of at least 3 cm.

Laying cables on the floor

This method has been used relatively recently in the construction of new buildings. The cables from the apartment panel are lowered down, laid under the floor covering, and protected from mechanical stress. They are brought out to the sockets vertically.

When connecting the sockets with a loop, jumpers are laid along the floor in pipes or the walls are grooved.

To connect lamps and switches, junction boxes are mounted.

Features of laying electrical wiring in panel houses

With the in-line factory method of manufacturing multi-storey buildings, the same type of templates for wall and ceiling panels are created. Inside them, empty channels are immediately made for laying wires.

For technological reasons, their direction may differ from the strict vertical and horizontal orientation.

The first panel buildings, called Khrushchevs, have specific electrical wiring laid under the wooden floor of the apartment. It rises vertically to the sockets in the cavities of the walls, and to the lamps and switches it is supplied through the hole in the concrete slab of the neighbor's floor from above.

In this way, they used to try to save material costs for wiring, but they neglected the safety elements.

How to make a wiring diagram in an apartment with your own hands

Electrical equipment requires compliance with strict operating rules. Incorrect connection of it to the voltage network creates an increased risk of domestic injuries. For this reason, all electrical work is carried out by trained professionals who have completed training and passed exams.

Self-connection of electrical devices is usually not very difficult, it ends happily even if you make a few small mistakes. However, when engaging in such activities, it is necessary to first study the safety rules and applicable regulations.

Wiring diagrams are handled by design organizations that have received state permission for this type of activity. It is quite acceptable to try to make her project with your own hands and get advice from a specialist on it.

This will require:

create a scaled room plan or use the developer's technical drawings;

mark on it all furniture and large-sized items in compliance with the proportions;

determine the places of installation of electrical consumers, assess their load;

plan the placement of electrical points: sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes;

mark the routes of electrical wiring along the walls, ceiling or floor;

make a sketch for each room.

Room plan

A similar drawing should be kept in the documentation of the housing and communal services. If you don't have access to it, you can use a tape measure and draw a simple sketch yourself on paper.

Furniture arrangement

Stationary placement of large items in the room should not clutter up sockets and lamps. Access to the switches must be made free, and their use convenient.

Therefore, all electrical points are placed taking into account the free area of ​​building structures. This gets rid of.

Estimation of power consumption of electrical appliances

Analysis of the created loads allows:

group consumers;

select protection, switching devices for them;

choose the design of cables, wires.

The selection and calculation of electrical wiring is carried out according to the applied load for open and closed operation using electrical reference books.

Determination of installation locations for electrical points

The planning of the location of switches, sockets and lamps is carried out taking into account the solution of the issues discussed above.

The coordinates of each electrical point are shown in the sketch. On them, markings are applied to building structures. It will allow you to design a direction and calculate the length of wires and cables for their purchase.

Such a plan is drawn up for each room. It will become the basis for creating a wiring diagram for the wiring in the apartment, will help to acquire the necessary material resources, and to carry out optimal installation work.

By saving it in your home technical documentation, you can always recall the features of the electrical circuit in your memory to carry out its modifications and modernization.