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Plastic windows are very popular. They well protect the room from cold, wind, qualitatively retain heat inside the room. It is important to know how the installation of double-glazed windows takes place, because it depends on its correctness whether the window will function as planned. If the double-glazed window is damaged, it is quite possible to replace it yourself.

What do you need to prepare before installation?

An important role is played by the preparatory work: without them it will not be possible to install according to all the rules, which can lead to a violation of the tightness of the window.

If you have an old window installed and you want to replace it with a new product, you will need to start working with dismantling, then you will need to clean the opening from debris, align it if necessary. If you want to replace only a double-glazed window, it will be enough to carefully pull out the damaged one from the frame: it is fastened with special glazing beads. Remains of broken glass must be carefully removed. Wear gloves as the edges may be sharp.

Before installation, it is necessary to correctly measure, finding out if there is a horizontal or vertical offset

What design to choose?

Installation does not begin with installation, but with measurements. They must be accurate, otherwise the new design will not fit. If you are afraid to take measurements incorrectly, invite a measurer. Well, if it is from the same company that will manufacture the double-glazed window for you.

Give preference to better proven manufacturers whose product quality has proven itself in the market.

The configuration is selected relative to the number of sashes of the future window and the method of fastening. It depends on how the double-glazed window will be attached. Usually there are two ways:

• Fastening through the frame in the same mounting plane.
• With the use of supporting reinforcement. Such fittings are already in the frame and placed there by the manufacturer.

Most often, the first method is used during installation, since it is easier to implement on your own, the weight of the structure is reduced, installation takes less time. If the sashes are deaf, you will need to remove the internal double-glazed windows. In the case of fittings, the circuit itself is a little more complicated, however, despite this, you do not risk damaging the double-glazed window during installation, accidentally damaging the frame or breaking the glass. You can install double-glazed windows hermetically, which is not always possible with self-installation in the first way.

If the window is under warranty, you should not change the double-glazed window yourself: this will deprive you of warranty service. If the glass is damaged, contact the installer.

How the window works

How is a double glazing installed?

The work takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare a place: clean, move furniture away from it so that it does not interfere with work; if the opening is uneven or there is debris, it must be cleaned and leveled with cement mortar.

Dismantling the old window

Opening preparation

After that, you can proceed to preparing yourself. To do this, you will need to remove the sash. At installation of a double-glazed window into the frame should not take place on weight, for installation it will be necessary to pull out the glazing beads, for which you can use a chisel and a hammer. Work should be done carefully so as not to accidentally break the glass.

Beads must be placed in the same place where they were previously, so it is better to number them immediately.

Pull out the bottom and side elements first, the top one last. The glazing bead should go in tightly, but not tight, if it does not fit into place, try another one: you probably mixed up the elements in places. If the sequence is violated, the double-glazed window will not hold firmly, small gaps will form that violate the tightness of the window. It is not necessary to remove the frame to install the double-glazed window.

Installing the frame in the opening

After the first steps are completed, you can proceed to the direct installation of a double-glazed window. Even with minimal experience, you will spend a little time on these actions. Installation is carried out as follows:

• In order for the installation of the frame to turn out to be even, special bars made of wood or plastic are placed at the bottom of the window. Most often, these elements are sold in the same place as plastic windows. The top edges of the substrates must be horizontal, this can be checked using a building level of the appropriate length or a laser level can be used for this purpose. If the line is slanted, the window will also skew, and it will not be able to function normally.
• After that, the structure is fixed with anchor bolts or mounting foam. Do not rush to pull out the bars: this must be done two weeks after the window is fixed.
• In order for the frame not to bend, pegs should also be installed on the sides or in the center. They will keep the structure upright.
• Whether the double-glazed window is located horizontally is checked using the building level. If it is uneven, you need to add pegs, aligning the structure to the desired plane. In order to find out if the window is vertical, use a plumb line.

Installation of a double-glazed window

It is more convenient to mount the frame first from below, on both sides of the corners. After that, you can move on to other attachment points. If fastening takes place with the help of anchor bolts, they should be tightened to the end only when the structure is perfectly level. Otherwise, there is a high risk of its deformation.

• Some structures are attached using the metal ears included in the kit: they already have holes for anchor bolts. Make sure that the hole drilled in the wall matches the hole on the lug, and the metal element itself fits as tightly as possible to the wall: this will eliminate unnecessary gaps.
• After that, a window sash is installed into which a double-glazed window is already inserted, and the cracks are sealed.

Knowing how to install double-glazed windows, you can save a lot if you need to replace the glass and do the work yourself. This does not require you to have building skills or buy expensive tools.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

• remove everything from the windowsill,
• take down the curtains
• free the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through an extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The shutters are removed from the window. Remove window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock down) slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you wish to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of keeping the old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed to anchor bolts or mounting plates. At the same time, it should be strictly observed that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be set vertically to the level). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with mounting foam. The foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastener. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam must be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and it is necessary to take into account the degree of expansion of the foam.

Installing a plastic window in most cases implies that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when repairs are being carried out in the apartment (house, room) and the window sill can be installed on its own.

If the mounted window opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will require restoration (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, laying or sealing the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), it is controlled that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is not more than 60 mm.

When installing a window sill, it should be taken into account that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill is "recessed" by 2 cm under the window frame, so the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, there are not enough slopes for finishing the opening (which are both a decorative addition under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, besides, this is the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

As slopes, either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable casings is used.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. The choice of VEKA plastic slopes is justified for a more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: if you have a repair in your apartment, then it is better to install the architraves on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after wallpapering yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing window accessories

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Additional accessories are being installed, additional fittings and components are fastened, such as: a stepped ventilator, a retainer, a mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an act of acceptance and delivery of work is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing the PVC window.

Plastic window functionality is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow the simple instructions for its care and operation, it will serve you forever.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
The removal of the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be carried out after the installation of the products and the finishing of the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repairs are still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General requirements for installation according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions” was put into effect by the order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to adjust the project documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST is set until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan joined the Russian norms.

What's new? The new norms bring a significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Windows installation instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation assemblies for each facility under construction and coordinate the assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and it is also provided for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acts of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the norms are the Applications:

• Annex A (recommended) is drawings with examples of window installation;
• Annex B (recommended) puts forward requirements for fastening windows in openings;
• Annex B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and, in fact, is the main working document;
• Annex D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (analysis of isotherms).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window companies and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams as a whole is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, which you need to pay close attention to.

Three layers of seam seal

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “tighter from the inside than from the outside”. Each mounting unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. You can use different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one or another design, these three termination planes must be present.

outer layer It is designed to protect the insulation layer from the penetration of moisture into it, and must have vapor permeability so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. In the best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before it is installed in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the gaps in the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal building physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction, when the opening has a good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plaster, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not fall on PSUL.

In a limited form, it is possible to use silicone on the outside. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint being filled, and the silicone should be glued only on both sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating a mounting seam. Although it is not clearly spelled out in GOST, there is also no ban on its use, no matter how much supporters of mounting tapes would like. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anointing with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer- heat-insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams designed specifically for installing windows. Such foams evenly fill the seam and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. Other foams, after installation, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

Inner layer- vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes are used, mainly based on butyl, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant drywall. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

A mounting seam is a node where wall and window structures are docked, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heat engineering. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of the past (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensate falls on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here one should carefully consider the heat engineering of the junction points.

An important recommendation - in the absence of quarters, use window frames with a minimum width of 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the casing are possible only if there is external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

If there is an effective insulation in the wall (mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam), the window should either be in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not occur due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by sunlight, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As calculated values ​​of thermal expansion for white windows, 1.5 mm per 1 linear meter should be used, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. corners plastic windows must remain free, the extreme fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch for white profiles of no more than 70 cm, for colored profiles no more than 60 cm. Fasteners are also placed near imposts at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of the windows and to the fact that it is very difficult to evenly fill a thinner seam with foam insulation.

Bearing pads are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one rotary sash, the blocks are placed on the opposite side of the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two wings, four blocks are placed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of the junctions of window frames to the walls

1 - window sill;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block under the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower node);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise-absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant with a thin layer

1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - panel for finishing the inner slope;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing for the entire floor height. These are the three main principles for installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the various wall designs and on the materials used to seal the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - it is very important human factor– responsible and high-quality work of installers.

Deviations from vertical and horizontal

According to GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions”, p.p. 5.6.4 Deviations from the vertical and horizontal of the mounted window blocks should not exceed 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the height of the product.

In the updated version of GOST 30971 of 2012, the maximum deviations of the window and door unit from the vertical and horizontal levels are the same (clause 5.2.4) - no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, and no more than 3 mm for the height of the entire product .

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow law No. 42 "On silence", disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our noisy work instructions in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The mounting seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or another will affect the phasing (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

Currently, plastic windows are recognized as one of the most common and sought-after designs. They can be installed both in a city apartment and a private house. You can cope with such work not only with the involvement of specialists, but also on your own.

Today we will analyze in as much detail as possible how to properly install plastic windows, and also consider what are the features of these popular designs.

Peculiarities

It's no secret that standard wooden window frames have long ceased to be the most popular. Today they are much rarer than before. The decrease in their demand is due not only to the exactingness of care, but also to the fact that more practical designs made of high-quality plastic have appeared on the market.

Plastic windows in our time are the most optimal and relevant elements of home improvement.

Such products have many positive qualities. Work on their installation is often carried out by the owners of the dwelling, and not by hired craftsmen. Thus, you can significantly save money, because the services of specialists today are not cheap.

A distinctive feature in carrying out such installation work is that they can be carried out not only in the conditions of an average city apartment.

Owners of "Khrushchev", brick / wooden, panel houses and even luxurious cottages can turn to the installation of plastic windows. This indicates the versatility of such structures. Of course, in this case we are not talking about plastic glazing of balconies, since the rules here are slightly different - you will have to take into account the technical condition of the loggia / balcony in order to be sure of the reliability and durability of the equipped space.

A feature of such installation work is that you first need to carefully prepare for them. In no case should this stage be neglected, otherwise the installed structures will not be sufficiently reliable and durable.

First of all, you will need to conscientiously prepare a window opening for future installation work. If it has an old window, it will need to be correctly and carefully dismantled.

Plastic windows are not uncommon today. They are chosen by many consumers, and it's not just the relative ease of installation of these structures. Let us consider in detail what are the pros and cons of such popular products.

First, let's take a look at the positive features.

• Modern plastic windows are made from high-quality and environmentally friendly raw materials. As a result, structures are obtained that do not cause any harm to health either during installation work or after their completion.
• Plastic windows can be selected for absolutely any openings. They are issued from different forms and dimensions, which allows you to choose the best option for a variety of buildings / houses.

• In search of the most reliable and durable structures, many consumers stop at metal-plastic products. Such products are good in that they can serve without problems for many decades and do not require replacement / major repairs. Such structures are not affected by precipitation.
• Plastic windows are famous for the fact that they do not require complex and regular maintenance, like, for example, wood products. Such models do not have to be regularly painted / tinted or insulated for the winter season. All that is required of you is to wipe the structures from accumulated dust from time to time.
• One of the most significant advantages of plastic window structures is that they easily fit into many interior styles. In addition, they can be combined with various curtains, curtains, blinds and many other similar items.
• It is quite possible to do the installation of these window structures with your own hands, which is what many owners of apartments and houses do.

But don't be fooled. If you want to install plastic windows in your home with your own hands, then you be sure to familiarize yourself with their shortcomings - perhaps this will affect your final choice.

• As mentioned earlier, it is possible to install windows yourself, but we must not forget that in this case you will not have the right to make a mistake. If you do the work incorrectly, this may result in the window being poorly soundproofed and leaky. In a dwelling with poorly installed plastic windows, it will not be possible to maintain a comfortable microclimate - it will be cold and noisy.
• The disadvantages of such structures include overly reinforced tightness. Despite the fact that modern versions of plastic windows are equipped with ventilation, it is not enough for residential premises. In any case, residents will have to additionally ventilate their living space or buy an air conditioner (and this can cost a tidy sum).

• Please note that after installing PVC windows in your home, a dry climate may form. This will negatively affect many types of indoor plants.
• Before moving on to direct installation work, you will have to take measurements as accurately and correctly as possible, which seems quite difficult to many users.
• Plastic windows have one serious drawback - in conditions of temperature changes, they can expand, which affects their service life.
• If you decide to install such window structures in your home, then you need to consider that their repair and restoration is not always possible.

Micro-ventilation plays an important role in plastic window structures. If the room does not have a comfortable and optimal microclimate, then this can lead to the fact that condensation begins to accumulate on the windows. To avoid the problem of fogging window structures, you need to choose options that provide micro-ventilation. This system works on the principle of forced ventilation. It is actuated by the movement of the handle - it is put in a specific position.

If you plan to install PVC windows in your house / apartment with your own hands, then you will have to take into account many features and nuances. It is very important to adhere to the requirements of GOST 23116-99 and 30971092.

Violation of these simple rules can lead to the fact that the result of the work carried out will simply disappoint you and you will have to do “work on the mistakes”.

Design

Many experts argue that the direct installation of plastic windows should be started only after a detailed acquaintance with their structure / design. Thus, it will be much easier for you to carry out such work.

The plastic window is assembled from the following important elements.

• Frame. Everything is simple here: the frame is the basis of the design.

• If the window is assembled from a certain number of components, then the frame is divided using elements such as impost is a vertical piece. If the window contains 2 parts, then there is only one impost in the structure, and if there are 3 parts, then there should be 2 imposts.
• The window element that opens is called the sash.. The fixed part is the capercaillie. In these components, double-glazed windows are fixed. These elements are glass fastened to each other (there may be 2, 3 or more). Between the glasses in this design there is a foil ribbon, which is responsible for tightness. Double-glazed windows are special: with reinforcement, energy-efficient or tinted glass. There are also similar products in which an inert gas is pumped between the glasses, which reduces heat loss.

• Double-glazed windows are attached to the frame base with the help of special staples which are plastic strips. As for the necessary tightness of the joints, one cannot do without a reliable rubber seal (as a rule, it is black).
• Also fixed on the sashes lock fittings, which is a set of special mechanisms responsible for opening and closing the valves. They are different because they carry different functional loads. These include: direct opening with ventilation, opening with ventilation and micro-ventilation.
• To ensure that all structural elements are properly sealed, rubber seals are used.

There are drainage holes on the bottom outside of the frame. They are usually closed with special caps. Through these components, condensate penetrates the street, which forms in the inner part due to the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors.

measurements

Knowing what the plastic window structure consists of, you can proceed to its installation. The first step in carrying out such work will be measurements.

Before you go shopping for a plastic window, you should correctly measure the window opening into which you will install the structure. The scheme is simple. In this case, it is necessary to consider whether it is with a quarter or not.

Bases with a quarter, as a rule, are present in buildings made of such material as foam block. Such components significantly reduce heat loss from the living space. In an opening without a quarter, you should order windows with a length less than 5 cm than the same opening parameter. In this case, 3 cm must be subtracted from the width parameter. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are useful for applying foam, and an additional 3.5 cm for setting a window sill. In accordance with GOSTs, it is recommended to leave 2 cm around the perimeter.

To organize a window opening with a quarter, all measurements should be taken to the narrowest section. Windows are usually ordered by adding about 3 cm to the width parameter. The length is not adjusted.

Most often, windows are fixed not in the center of the opening. They are placed, indenting from the outer part by 1/3 in depth. If you are going to install a PVC window on your own, you can make an offset in the direction you want. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width parameters of both components, calculated in accordance with the direct location of the window, 5 cm are usually added.

The calculation of the window sill width indicator is also influenced by such a parameter as the position of the battery. Please note that the window sill should “hide” the radiator by no more than half. You also need to add about 2 cm to take the window under the base. The most modest margin in the length parameter may be 8 cm, however experts recommend not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this detail as neatly and aesthetically as possible.

• It is better to make measurements for all similar openings in the apartment / house. The width of these components can vary significantly, but the height parameter for all openings should be similar (of all, choose the smallest size).
• As mentioned earlier, the window is usually not installed directly in the middle of the opening. PVC structures are recommended to be fixed at 2/3 of the wall width from the inside. However, in the event that you are going to sheathe the outside of the building with heat-insulating material, then it is permissible to put the window a little further. The remaining gap will contain the mounting plane (the outer plane of the window).
• It is worth starting to measure the slopes only after the installation work is completed, since it is quite problematic to calculate the width of these parts in advance. The length of the slopes in this case will be equal to the height of the opening itself. Consider a small margin for cutting.

When ordering a window, you will definitely need to specify in what quantity and what specific parts should be in the product. We must not forget about indicating the presence / absence of a capercaillie. You will also need to decide how the window will open and close. When ordering, you will also need to specify the desired type of fittings / accessories.

If you are going to purchase and install a PVC window for a balcony, then the measurements will have to be done a little differently.

• Width windows should be calculated as a parameter of the length of the parapet, on which it will be based. Subtract 60-70 cm from all sides to fix the special corner profile. Behind it, the elements of the front and sides will be connected.
• Height should be defined as the step from the parapet to the roof of the balcony structure, minus the 25-30 cm required for clearances.

Windows located on the side, in a balcony setting, must be calculated in the same way, but only in width, in this case, 60-70 cm must be subtracted for the corner profile. For joints between the window and the wall covering, 25-30 cm will be required.

If you are taking measurements in a private house or an old building, then experts recommend knocking down pieces of slopes on each side at the measurement sites.

This action is required, since in many cases the dimensions of the window opening significantly exceed the dimensions of the window itself, and the remaining space is closed with cement or an insulating layer, which often simply fall out when the previous structure is removed.

Training

As mentioned earlier, before starting the installation of plastic windows, it is very important to correctly carry out the preparatory work. Do not forget that only those PVC structures that were produced on special industrial equipment and fully comply with all measurements made are allowed to be installed.

In the course of preparations it is required to take into account that the width (as well as the height) of the opening itself should be 2-5 cm larger than the window. This is necessary so that it is possible to form the required three-layer assembly seam.

The easiest way to install PVC windows is in new buildings, since there is no need to carry out the most complex preparatory work - to dismantle old window structures. However, if the latter are present in the dwelling, then they must be removed.

Old windows are usually removed, starting with the dismantling of the sashes. Usually at this stage, the craftsmen do not have any problems (of course, if the frame has not completely rotted).

If there is a completely rotten frame, then for a start it is better to remove the glass so that they do not accidentally fall out when dismantling the wings.

As for the frame base itself, it is permissible to remove it different methods. Many of them are very gentle, but require more effort and time. At the same time, the frames are not damaged in any way and remain intact (they can even be used in the future). As a rule, the old frame structure is cut using a circular saw, and then it is seamlessly removed in parts. It is also necessary to remove any old seals and insulation materials.

Before dismantling the old window, you should cover the furniture and appliances in the room with plastic wrap, since during such work there is always quite a lot of dust. If there is a carpet or carpet in the room, then it is better to move them to another room. You can do the same with furniture, but most owners prefer to just cover it.

It is very important to scrupulously clean the window opening from any debris and dust. Do not leave the old sealant. If there are recesses or cracks on the walls of the opening, the diameter of which exceeds the mark of 2 mm, then in accordance with GOST they must be repaired with high-quality plaster or putty. Many home craftsmen neglect this process because it takes a lot of time, because it takes 5-8 days on average to dry the same plaster mixture. Throughout this time, the opening will remain open.

However, you can turn to special quick-drying mixtures (gypsum or polymer). Such compositions will significantly reduce the waiting time for drying. If you use such solutions, then you will have to wait for them to fix only a few hours, not days.

Dismantling of the old structure

As mentioned above, for the installation of a plastic window, it is necessary to prepare a window opening with high quality and one of the stages of work is the dismantling of the old window.

Let's take a closer look at how to do this.

• The first step is to remove the sashes of the old window from the hinges. If the design contains closed (deaf) elements, then you must first remove the glazing beads and only then remove the glass.
• The next step is to remove the window sill. It must be removed so that the bottom of the window opening is not damaged. The method of removing the window sill largely depends on the material from which it is made. For example, a concrete part should be dismantled using a hammer: the middle is broken, then the reinforcement is cut and the remnants of the window sill are removed from the sidewalls of the opening. If these elements are made of wood, plastic, metal or marble, then they should be removed entirely. These elements are removed using a hammer or perforator, as well as a chisel.
• It is also necessary to remove the ebbs. To do this, it is first important to figure out how they were fixed and what they were screwed to - to the window sill profile or to the frame.

• Having removed the window sill and the ebb, you need to remove the window itself from the opening. It is most convenient to use a tool such as a mounting cutter. Many professional installers turn to this device, because with it the work is faster and easier. Of course, you can also use a simple wood saw or a jigsaw.
• Having removed the frame from the window opening, it is necessary to dismantle the slopes. Parts that have been finished with a sand-cement mortar cannot be dismantled. As for slopes made of plasterboard or plastic, they can be removed using a screwdriver.
• After carrying out all the above work, it remains only to remove the old insulating material from the installation opening.

Remember - the opening must necessarily retain its original integrity. If you nevertheless damaged this base, then you will have to immediately get rid of the resulting defects, otherwise in the future they may cause drafts penetrating into the living room, wear of fittings and a violation of the tightness of the structure.

How to install yourself: a step-by-step description

If you have prepared the frame for the installation of a new PVC window, having correctly removed the old one, then you can proceed directly to the installation of the purchased plastic structure. In this situation, you must strictly adhere to the instructions, as well as during dismantling.

Currently, there are two main methods for installing plastic windows:

• with disassembly (unpacking) of the window;
• without disassembly.

If you chose the unpacking option, then you need to drill holes in the frame through which anchors will be screwed into the walls. This method is quite complicated, but the fastenings in this case will be more reliable.

If you decide to install a plastic window without unpacking, then you will need to attach metal plates to the frame from the outside. Then they will need to be attached to the walls. Of course, these actions will take much less effort and time, but such a mount is considered not the most reliable nym, because in the case of significant wind loads, the frame can be seriously skewed. It can also sag. If you do not want to disassemble the window, then you can turn to fixing it on the plate, but use not narrow and thin, but dense and wide elements that are very often used during the installation of truss systems.

Compact PVC windows installed on special mounting plates, in the absence of serious wind loads, will stand for many years and will not cause any trouble. But in the event that you live in a region where powerful and gusty winds take place, or your apartment is located on a high floor, it is better to turn to the unpacking method. Each of these methods of installing plastic windows should be considered in more detail.

First, let's look at how the installation with unpacking is carried out.

With unboxing

In this case, you must first carry out all the necessary measurements. Measure the window frame and opening. Be sure to make sure that these components fit together. Then you can proceed with the installation work.

Consider the process of disassembling the window.

• First you need to remove the sash. To do this, close the window by turning the knob down. Then the plastic lining is removed, which are present on two loops. They should be pry off with a screwdriver.
• On the top of the loop you can see the pin. He is responsible for the mobile connection. It is located in the center and slightly protrudes. You need to press on it until it deepens (for this, many use a metal plate, which they rest against the pin, and then lightly knock on it). The pin will pop out at the bottom. After that, it should be grabbed with side cutters or pliers. Pull down and remove these parts.
• Supporting the sash from above, open the lock. To do this, the handle must be placed horizontally. Tilt the top towards you and lift the sash slightly by removing it from the pin at the bottom.

Thus, you remove the sash. Then you need to remove the double-glazed window on the capercaillie. These elements are held by glazing beads. They should be removed, after which the double-glazed window will be removed without any difficulty.

Beads must be removed according to the following scheme.

• Insert something narrow and strong enough into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you do not have special tools in stock, it is recommended to take a small spatula for this. Disassembly should begin, starting with one of the long sides.
• The corner section of the spatula should penetrate into the joint and gently move the bead away from the frame structure.
• Without taking out the tool, you need to quietly move along, again moving the glazing bead to the side.
• Thus, you need to move along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead will be practically separated and easily removed.
• As for the short sides, everything is simpler here: you need to pry off the free edge and, turning the spatula, remove it from its groove. You need to take hold of the freed edge and pull it up.

After that, you can proceed to the removal of the double-glazed window. Be as careful as possible, because it has a considerable weight. If nothing works out for you, then you should remove another glazing bead. But it is important to ensure that the window is in an inclined position so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Further, if necessary, it will be possible to replace the double-glazed window with your own hands.

The cleaned frame around the outer perimeter must be pasted over with self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With such a component, the window will not dry out much.

Remove the film with the manufacturer's logo from the structure. If it is not removed, it can melt and “stick” to the frame under the influence of aggressive sunlight, and then it will be very difficult to remove it. The frame must be inserted into the cleared opening. To expose it, you will need to turn to special mounting wedges. They are always fixed in the corners and under the impost. Other elements are set as needed. When laying, it is important to set the window exclusively in accordance with the level in 3 planes. First fix the location of the window leaf. That's what mounting plates come in handy for.

Next, take a drill and a drill that match in size with the diameter of the anchor fasteners. You need to make holes for the fasteners. About 150-180 mm should be retreated from the edge from above. This is where the first hole will be. The bottom hole should be located at a similar distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a regular window, 1 more anchor must be fixed: the largest gap between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.

Having made a hole, you need to make sure that the frame has not moved from its place. This will require a level. Next, nail the anchor and tighten it well. But keep in mind that it is important not to overdo it here: profile, in no case should bend too much. This operation should be repeated as many times as necessary.

After that, proceed to the installation of ebbs.

Without unpacking

The main subtleties of the installation work are described above. With this method, installation begins with fixing the fastener plates. They come in 2 varieties: U-like and linear. It is necessary to choose the most reliable and dense options.. They must be fixed at the same distance as the anchor fasteners - 50-200 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the parts in the middle. They must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the profile.

In the future, work is underway to install windows with your own hands using mounting plates in the same way as with the method described above, starting from the stage of placing a PVC window in the opening using a level. But it is no longer necessary to attach the frame itself, but the plates and not with the help of anchors, but dowels-nails. You need to drill a hole, bend the plate, fix the dowel, and then put the plate in place and screw the dowel. The next steps are the same.

Drainage

Another important component of the new plastic window is recognized as low tide. It needs to be placed outside. To this end, according to the technology, first, high-quality vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer half of the frame (it is advisable to use self-adhesive materials). On the side planes of the window opening, small strobes must be made, into which the edges of the drainage systems are subsequently installed.

On the plane of the opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall, you need to apply a layer of mounting foam. In some cases, when the height difference is too impressive, a special lining profile is fixed in this place. Subsequently, the ebb will be attached to it. The ebb cut according to the necessary parameters is brought under the protruding section of the frame, after which it is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws. Along the bottom edge, the ebb also needs to be filled with foam.

After that, it is necessary to foam the window opening itself.

If you install PVC windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the opening must be sprayed with water using a spray gun. Carrying out this stage is required in order to improve the polymerization of the foam.

A vapor barrier waterproofing tape, which is also recommended by GOST, must be glued along the contour of the frame structure. Next, you need to take a can of foam and fill the remaining gaps by 2/3 of the volume.

In the case when the gaps are too large (more than 2-3 cm), the foam should be laid in several stages. Between 2 layers you need to wait a little time - about 10-15 minutes. When the initial layer is slightly fixed, it must also be sprayed with water, and then proceed to apply the second. Repeat these steps until the volume is filled by 2/3.

Do not expect absolute polymerization. Glue the free edge of the heat-insulating strip to the window opening. But you need to pay attention to the fact that using the tape, light plastic slopes should be installed. This is due to the fact that neither plaster nor any other solution will fall on such thermal insulation.

After carrying out the work related to the installation of the ebb, it remains only to proceed to the assembly of the window and the finishing of the necessary elements.

Window Assembly

If you have done all the work described above, then you can proceed to the direct assembly of a new plastic window.

Start carrying out these works by cleaning the glass and gum in the frame from dust and any other contaminants. If necessary, use a regular blade to remove traces of black sealant remaining on the glass.

It should be noted that on the frame in the part where the double-glazed window itself is fixed, there are special fold inserts on the inside of the profiles. Leveling plates are placed on top of them, playing the role of a kind of spacers for the package. Inserts on the side profile and impost must be moved to the center.

On the liners from below, you need to lay plates with the same thickness. Please note that they must be laid in such a way that they are located at an angle, and not along the tab. Simply put, one corner of the plate should rest against the rubber, and the diagonally located one closed the groove intended for the glazing bead. This stage is required, because not in all cases the width of the straightening plates is suitable for the density parameter of the double-glazed window. Often it has more modest parameters.

If this plate is installed along the profile, one glass located at the edge will simply remain without support. In the process of fixing the glazing bead, this glass will press its side surface against the same plate and crack due to the formed strong load. In order not to face such an unpleasant situation, the plates are laid at an angle with respect to the frame structure.

Next, you need to put a double-glazed window on the plates and press it against the outer rubber bands. In this case, you need to lift the double-glazed window in the lower part (for this it is permissible to use a spatula - it will be more convenient) and correct the plates: push the prominent corner sections under the package, but not to a great depth, but so that they act as a support for all three glasses. These parts should not protrude strongly and prevent the fixation of the glazing beads.

Next, be sure to check whether the double-glazed window is equally included in the side sections for the rubber bands. If required, you need to corrective work using a spatula. With this tool, you need to move the package to the right or left. After adjusting the position of the double-glazed window, glazing beads are placed at the top and bottom.

If your toolkit does not have such a useful device as a mallet (plastic or rubber), then the glazing beads can be hammered with a hammer handle. You need to do this, starting from the ends and moving towards the middle.

Before proceeding to the installation of glazing beads on the side, it is required to open the double-glazed window with plates on the side sections. To this end, we have previously moved the side seam inserts on the frame and impost closer to the center. Now it remains only to put straightening plates on them, again using a spatula.

Please note: the plates must be placed in the same way as the lower parts. This is necessary to ensure that all three glasses in the package are securely supported.

First, the side glazing beads should be inserted with their tips into the groove, starting from the final parts. After that, they are scored, as in the previous stages: starting from the ends, moving towards the center.

The next step is to install the sash. Before this, it is recommended to install special caps on the hinges. They are quite difficult to install if the sash is already present on the frame. In this situation, a special cover is meant, which is called a "snail". It is fixed on the corner hinge on top of the sash, as well as on the frame hinge at the bottom.

On the sash, you need to fix the handle horizontally. To do this, it is necessary to turn the lifting microlift vertically down. Otherwise, the handle will be blocked.

Experts advise checking that the handle is installed correctly: horizontal fitting trunnions should be located in a central position (not above or below, but only in the middle - between 2 adjacent risks). After that, you can proceed to install the sash directly on the frame structure. It is put on the loop from below, and then the corner section of the sash is launched into the loop from above and secured with a pin, pushing it up until the latch is released.

In order for the pin to enter the hinge hole as easily as possible and not get stuck, the sash should be pressed (you can press it slightly) against the frame. In this arrangement, the longitudinal cut of the pin will coincide with the protrusion inside the hinge hole.

When assembling a PVC window, you need to be very careful and careful. Also, one should not forget about checking the correct course of the swing sash of the structure. The level of fixation of the structure should also be checked. For example, in the opening position at 45 degrees and 90 degrees, the sash should not stagger or swing open by itself. When you have carried out all the required checks, the sashes will be able to close securely and move on to the next step - sealing the gaps.

Gap sealing

In order to cover the remaining gap between the window and the wall covering, high-quality polyurethane-based foam is most often used. This material is chosen by many consumers, as it is time-tested. Polyurethane sealant can provide excellent sealing and thermal insulation of the joint. However, not everyone knows that over time and during “meetings” with the external environment, the foam loses its positive properties, which is why it begins to collapse.

To guarantee her protection, you need to take care of installing a high-quality hydro-barrier on 2 sides that surround the seam. This process is neglected by many unscrupulous installers. Moreover, few people fix the slopes at the right time in order to somehow protect the foam. As a result, for many owners of apartments and private buildings, windows may begin to freeze or fog up.

In order not to encounter such problems, a vapor barrier film is glued on the inside of such a window. You need to glue it around the perimeter, but you should leave the bottom untouched.

Concerning outside, then here also around the perimeter you will need to stick a membrane moisture-resistant strip. This material will be responsible for protecting the mounting foam from precipitation, and will also help remove moisture from the inside of the insulation.

As for the lower inner edge of the window structure, here you need to glue a strip of waterproofing with a foil surface. She will hide under the windowsill. Fold the strips in the distance left between the wall and the window, and then moisten all the bases with water. Next, you should foam the gap. It is recommended to give preference to a special all-weather mounting foam. It will be convenient to apply it using a gun designed for such compositions.

When you fill the gap, the foam will again need to be moistened a little using a spray bottle. Next, glue the insulating tape to the wall around the perimeter of the window (both outside and inside).

Window sill installation

Installation of window blocks does not end with the installation of ebbs and overlapping seams. Another important component of such structures is the window sill, the installation of which should also not be forgotten.

The window sill must be cut at the edges so that it fits perfectly and clearly into the opening, goes under the frame and “stuck” into the lining profile. At the extreme remote sections of the opening, the window sill should be on the wall ceilings (by 50-100 mm). Using pegs, you should set the installation mark for this part with a slight bevel inside the room. Further the space under the window sill must be sealed with mounting foam or filled with mortar. Using self-tapping screws 4x75 mm, the window sill should be attached to the frame. Fasteners must be screwed in from the inside in the extreme sections and in the center.

Many owners of wooden dwellings are wondering if it is possible to put plastic windows in them. Yes, in such conditions, the installation of such structures is possible, however some nuances should be taken into account.

• It is permissible to proceed to these installation works only 1-2 years after the completion of construction. At this time, there is a period of shrinkage of the building.
• Installation of plastic windows in these conditions is not carried out in the opening. Window structures can only be placed in a wooden box, which is designed to protect them from deformation.
• It is important to ensure that even the slightest trace of rot or destruction is not present on the window block. Before proceeding to the installation steps, it is required to treat the tree with antiseptic agents.
• Having completed the installation of a plastic window in a wooden dwelling, the gap is most often filled with a jute insulating layer, and then closed with a casing on 2 sides.

Casing (or pigtail) is an important part when installing plastic windows in suburban dwellings. Most often, casing is addressed in the conditions of wooden and timber constructions. These elements are a box that is placed in window and doorways. They are responsible for preserving window structures from deformations and the appearance of cracks.

If you are designing pigtails yourself, then you will need:

• first prepare the opening;
• make thorn-groove cuts;
• to treat surfaces with an antiseptic;
• install seals;
• put the side and top elements of the casing;
• lay insulation;
• at the end, put and fix the window itself.

Do not rush to remove the branded film from the window structure immediately after purchase. It is advisable to do this when the repair work is completed. You should also not leave the film on the frames, since over time their removal can become a big problem.

If you take out a double-glazed window, you need to be as careful as possible. This is due to the fact that inaccurate manipulations with glazing beads often end in scratches and chips that appear on the glass.

Repair of plastic windows can be done by hand. Most often, the owners are faced with the problem of adjusting the valves. In addition, you can change the window handle or sealing materials yourself. It is also possible to replace the double-glazed window yourself, however, it is permissible to proceed to it only if you are confident in your abilities. Otherwise, you should contact the experts.

Usually, special side plugs come with window sills and ebbs. Their installation should not be abandoned.

If you are installing anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, then it is better for you to prepare small recesses for them. They will be needed so that you do not have to lay an extra leveling layer before fixing the slopes in the interior of the room.

In order to shift the dew point, it is recommended to do foaming with different density levels.. The foam layer facing outward should not be made too thick, especially when compared with the inner layer. Along the perimeter, it is permissible to lay the foam evenly, without leaving gaps or voids.

Please note that the gaps between the wall slab and the window frame should be filled with mounting foam if they do not exceed the 4 cm mark. If the gaps are too large, it is recommended to partially close them with cheap materials such as drywall, foam or brick.

If you decide to install PVC windows in a frame structure, then you need to consider that you can proceed to these works after:

• erection of a frame;
• wall laying and insulation;
• roof laying;
• providing vapor barrier and wind protection.

Internal vapor barrier and external insulation must be installed with a small margin in the openings. If you are going to install PVC windows in a frame house without floors, then you cannot do without the use of scaffolding. With these designs, installation work will be easier and faster.

Before you go shopping for high-quality plastic windows, you need to consider that the profiles of these structures are divided into classes:

• economy- have very thin partitions, which soon begin to freeze, especially in cold autumn or winter;
• standard- is considered the best profile for plastic windows, is optimal in terms of price-quality ratio;
• premium- the most expensive profile, which has various options, many of which are not particularly needed.

To make sure that the PVC profile is environmentally friendly, you need to request a quality certificate for the purchased products. These documents usually contain all the necessary information. The composition of window structures should not contain aggressive chemicals that can harm human health.

If you want your home to always be warm, you should order windows with energy-saving double-glazed windows. Of course, they are more expensive than simple options, but the money spent on them will pay off soon due to the overall reduction in energy costs.

As a rule, when installing metal-plastic windows, people order the installation of structures in specialized companies. It is believed that such work is too complicated for non-professional craftsmen. But in fact, installing windows with your own hands is not difficult. It is within the power of people who do not have special knowledge and skills. It is only necessary to plan all the stages of the upcoming work.

Before starting the installation of the window, you need to carefully plan all the stages of work.

The main methods of installing windows

At the moment, the installation of metal-plastic windows is carried out in one of two ways. This is an installation with and without unpacking double-glazed windows.

The method of mounting the system with unpacking implies a preliminary disassembly of the structure. In this case, the holding bead is dismantled, the double-glazed windows themselves are removed from the frame. After that, the frame itself is mounted in the window opening. And only then the whole system is reassembled. In this case, to fix the window, the craftsmen use anchor bolts that pass through the entire structure and fasten it to the wall.

When installed without unpacking, such complex preparation is not required. The window frame is mounted on anchor plates, which fix the structure in the window opening. As a rule, it is the second option that is used for self-installation of metal-plastic windows. Since the unpacking method has a number of significant drawbacks:

1. Removing the bead without damaging it is quite difficult. And during installation, surface defects often occur: scratches, potholes, chips.
2. When unpacked, the structure loses its tightness. As a result, during further operation, the window often fogs up.
3. During dismantling, double-glazed windows often get damaged or simply break.

In addition, this installation method is much more laborious than without unpacking. And it usually takes a lot longer.

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Benefits of different mounting methods

Experts advise to independently install metal-plastic windows without unpacking. But besides the disadvantages, installation with unpacking also has advantages. It is believed that the fastening of frames on anchor bolts is much more reliable than on plates. This should be done in the following cases:

1. If windows are mounted on the upper floors of high-rise buildings (above 13-15 floors). The fact is that such houses have a large windage. And sharp gusts of wind will quickly loosen the window structure. This is especially true if the house is surrounded by low-rise buildings.
2. If large windows are installed (over 4 m 2). In this case, you can also use the combined method, when the upper edge is attached to the plates, and the anchors will hold the frame from the sides.
3. If the walls of the house are made of unreliable or worn material (crumbling concrete, brick, sandstone, etc.).

IN wooden houses and on the lower floors there is no point in installing windows with unpacking. The plates will securely fix the frame, and the window will serve for many years. But whatever method you consider optimal for yourself, you will need the following materials and tools:

An electric screwdriver will help to securely fix all the elements of the window.

• perforator or drill with a percussion function;
• electric screwdriver (hand tools do not provide sufficiently reliable fixation);
• guns for polyurethane foam and silicone;
• jigsaw;
• set of hex keys;
• rubber spatula;
• sharp utility knife.

Do not forget to prepare measuring tools in advance: building level and plumb line, centimeter tape measure, square. All marks that you will need to put in the process of work can be done with a simple pencil or chalk.

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Installation of a metal-plastic window

When installing plastic windows, you must follow a few general rules:

1. When foaming voids, the window must be tightly closed, as drafts can break the foam layer and the frame is deformed. The sashes must not be opened for at least half a day after installation is completed.
2. Fittings (handles and locking elements) must be mounted only after the completion of the main work.
3. Remove the protective film only when the window is completely ready for use. Otherwise, you may damage the plastic coating.
4. Regardless of the type of mounting you choose, the fasteners should be located around the entire perimeter of the frame. The distance between the nodes is usually 60-70 cm. But make sure that this parameter does not exceed 1 m. In this case, the first fastener is installed approximately 10 cm from the corner of the frame.

Compliance with these simple rules will help you securely install a metal-plastic window.

Any installation begins with markup. At the same time, "beacons" must be applied simultaneously to the opening of the window box and to the frame itself. Be sure to check your calculations. Because sometimes the consequences of an error are very difficult to eliminate. If the design of the window provides for the presence of a support profile, then fasteners are not needed from the bottom of the frame.

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Fixing the frame in the window opening

First, all fasteners are installed directly on the frame. If you are using an anchor plate, make sure that the self-tapping screw enters the metal profile of the structure and is securely fixed in it. Therefore, pre-purchase specialized fasteners designed to work with metal. They are equipped with a drill (drill) at the end of the sting, which allows them to be securely fastened in the “nest”.

If you prefer ordinary screws, then you will first have to make holes for them. When doing this, make sure that the drill is 1 mm smaller than the fastener. To install metal-plastic windows, self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm are usually used. If the frame is large, then it is wiser to take larger screws (up to 12 mm).

Scheme of the location of fasteners on a metal-plastic window.

Specialized anchor plates are ideal for fastening. But some crafters believe that they can be replaced with a standard aluminum hanging profile, which is commonly used for drywall. But such a mounting assembly turns out to be much less reliable, and these fasteners cost about the same.

Next, you need to determine the exact location of the window. Small wooden wedges of different thicknesses will help you with this. In this case, it is best to adjust the position of the window, knocking out the wedges only horizontally. If your window is not equipped with a mounting plate, then the frame must be raised to the level of the window sill by placing timber trimmings under it. Otherwise, you will not be able to bring the window sill under the frame, and you will have to fasten it end-to-end.

The window is aligned in the following order:

1. Install the bottom 2 wedges first.
2. Then the top two.
3. If necessary, the frame is leveled by driving in wedges from the sides.

Constantly check the correct position of the window using a level. If you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to correct it in the future.

Plastic window structures are rapidly replacing their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace old windows with more modern designs, it will not hurt you to read the instructions for installing new PVC windows yourself. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can handle all the tasks yourself?

It is assumed that before starting the installation, you have already decided what size of windows will suit you, what configuration new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Deal with the solution of these issues on your own or with the help of a consultant of the company to which you decide to entrust the manufacture of plastic windows.

Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use a method that involves the use of special fastening "lugs".

The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before starting the installation, you will need to remove the hinged doors from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf doors.

The second option is more convenient for self-installation - you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.

When choosing the second method, find yourself an intelligent assistant in advance. The window in the assembly weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.

Preparatory work

Right before the installation of PVC windows, you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.

Site preparation

When ordering windows, specify when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the delivery of the windows.

First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.

Second step. Cover the floor and radiators with a protective film or thick cloth.

Third step. Organize workplace so that nothing interferes with you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.

First step. Remove the sashes and dismantle the double-glazed windows if you prefer the method of fixing through the frame.

To remove the double-glazed window, carefully pry off the fastening bead using a simple chisel and, with a careful blow on the same chisel, click the fastener out of the groove. First, pull out the vertical fixing glazing beads. Then, in the same order, get rid of the horizontal fasteners.

In order not to get confused in the future, be sure to mark the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough for gaps to appear.

Second step. Tilt the window frame. The double-glazed window will independently come out of the mounting grooves. Carefully place the removed double-glazed window against a wall or other stable surface at an angle.

Third step. Remove the plugs from the canopies of the wings and unscrew the fixing bolts. Next, you need to release the upper part of the swing window sash. To do this, turn the knob "for ventilation". Get the hook located in the lower canopy.

As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.

Fourth step. From the inside of the window frame, prepare holes for the anchor. Place holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 attachment points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.

The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.

If the plastic window is fixed using special "lugs", the disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame with screws.

Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window

Window dismantling instructions

First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.

Second step. File the box and frame at several points.

Third step. Pry off each part of the structure with a crowbar and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find two-hundred nails, due to which the window is held, and pull them out.

Fourth step. Remove the heat-insulating and sealing materials that appear under the box.

Fifth step. Dismantle the old slopes with a puncher. If the slopes are in good condition, you can not touch them. At this point, be guided by your plans for the further design of slopes.

Sixth step. Pry and dismantle the old window sill.

Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A perforator will help you with this.

Eighth step. Collect construction debris in suitable containers and take it to the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.

Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening, clean them of dirt. Prime surfaces.

Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is required to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.

If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced with a cement screed. At this point, be guided by the conditions of your particular situation.

Installing and pinning a new window

Proceed with the installation of a pre-prepared window.

First step. Lay special plastic substrates or wooden blocks on the bottom end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates in such a way that their upper faces are connected in a straight horizontal line.

Substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.

Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame on the substrates, depending on the window installation method you have chosen. The substrates do not need to be dismantled, they will continue to perform their supporting function.

Without substrates, the window can simply fall out. Anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still loosen under the weight of the structure. Therefore, for additional strengthening of the substrate system, it is necessary to place not only at the bottom, but also along the side faces, closer to the top of the opening.

Third step. Check the horizontal position of the window structure using an ordinary water level.

If deviations are found, add pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.

Fourth step. Check the vertical position of the window. The detected deviations are eliminated in the same way as in the previous step.

Fifth step. Proceed to fixing the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen method of fixing.

Fastening by the method "through the frame"

First step. Take a puncher and directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame, drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall.

Second step. Fasten the lower part of the structure from two sides. To do this, you need to insert and fix the anchor, but you do not need to immediately complete the fastening to the end.

Third step. Make sure the window is vertical. Immediately correct the deviations according to the pattern already familiar to you. If everything is fine, drill holes in the center and upper parts window frame. Insert and tighten the anchor. Information about the required number of fasteners was given earlier.

Fourth step. Recheck the window for evenness. Get rid of deviations immediately if they are found.

Fifth step. Tighten the anchor all the way. Do not overtighten them, as the frame can be deformed from excessive tension.

Video - How to install a PVC window

Plate fastening

In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and look like "ears". In such elements, holes for anchors are initially provided.

With this mounting method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The "ear" of the plate should fit as closely as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.

Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: bottom first, then top and middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the placement of the structure. Without respect for the vertical and horizontal levels, your window simply deforms over time.

Assembly and final check of the window

After fixing all the anchors, proceed to the assembly of the window, if you originally disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.

First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and fix them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally on the sides. A rubber mallet will help you snap the glazing beads.

Second step. Hang back and fix the swing sashes accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.

Make sure the flaps move normally. In the normal state, the sash does not make any unauthorized movements when it is opened 45 degrees and 90 degrees.

Third step. Complete the check and seal existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.

On this, the main work on the installation of PVC windows by hand is considered completed. In the end, you just have to install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.

Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dedusting

Installing the window sill Laying out the cement mortar

Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dedusting

Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout

Window sill installation. Drying

Window sill installation. Finished work

Successful installation work!