Each dacha begins with buildings. I don’t want to carry garden tools with me every day, it becomes necessary to rinse after work, and there is nowhere to hide from the rain in the “open field”. Therefore, not a single site is complete without outbuildings in which you can store working equipment, crops from a personal plot or firewood. In the end, you may want to have chickens or rabbits, they also need somewhere to live. The solution to these problems is designed to perform wooden or metal hozbloki.

The purpose of the hozblok

Hozblok is a non-residential building, traditionally - a room for storing various property. Country household blocks are usually small in size, they are universal or designed for specific needs. If you do not have enough free space for inventory in your house and want to put all the tools in a separate room, it is recommended to build a utility block.

Few people refuse to take a refreshing shower on a hot summer day. And for this purpose, it is customary to install a small building under the shower in the hozblok, which combines the shower stall itself and the necessary fixtures and furniture for a comfortable bath. Another direction is utility blocks-toilets, which are carried out taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards and do not spoil the general view of the estate or summer cottage with their design.

Hozbloki in the form of change houses are intended for those summer residents who, for some specific reason, do not want to build a capital structure on their site, or are just in the process of building a garden house. A well-equipped wooden hozblok will be able to satisfy modest living needs or help to hide from bad weather. In addition, such a building will become an auxiliary building and a temporary shelter for employees.

Hozbloki, of course, will be useful for any family that lives in the country in the summer. Such a building can also play the role of a storage of vegetables and fruits, act as a workshop, pantry or summer kitchen. Firewood for summer cottages is most often stored under a shed or in a woodshed, which is often an extension to the utility block. Another typical part of the hozblok is a barn, which is necessary for keeping poultry and rabbits.

The design of the country hozblok

The utility blocks installed on the site most often consist of container blocks. Such a structure is a fairly simple structure of a frame-modular type, the basis of which is a frame made of a channel or corner, which is sheathed with wood boards. Such hozbloks are very mobile, do not require the construction of a foundation, and the design of the building does not take much time and the participation of qualified specialists.

As a rule, wooden utility blocks are covered on the outside with a galvanized profiled sheet, and sheet iron is laid on the roof. At the request of the developer, blind or opening windows can be installed. If the household blocks for a summer residence consist of several container blocks, depending on the purpose, it is possible to install internal partitions, as in the photo of the household blocks with your own hands.

If it is planned to use hozbloki in the cold season, its floor, shelves, walls, windows and door are insulated with the help of heat-insulating materials, mainly improvised ones. To protect yourself from moisture, you can use a special moisture-proof material, and the use of disinfestation and fire retardant impregnation makes household blocks invulnerable to various kinds of pests.

Space planning

When choosing a location for a utility block, the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97 and the purpose of the building should be taken into account. If you keep livestock, poultry or equip a toilet in the building, then the minimum distance to the residential building from its wall is 12 meters, to the border of the neighboring site - 4 meters. If it is planned to equip a shower room in the utility block, the minimum distance to a residential building should be at least 8 meters, to the border with neighbors - 1 meter.

Please note that even if one meter remains to the neighbor's site, you can put a ladder, firewood, remnants of building materials behind the utility block, and water from the roof of the building will not fall on the neighbor's things during rain. It is best to place the utility block next to the neighbor's household block in the "back to back" type, then all his "beauty" will not be visible behind the neighbor's barn, and your neighbor will not be visible.

In the garden plots you can find a great variety of outbuildings. The disadvantage of such buildings is the significant consumption of building materials for their construction. And most importantly, all these buildings take away such a scarce area from the garden and the garden! This problem can be solved by combining several rooms in one building. A typical drawing of a utility block is a combination of a summer shower, a toilet and a utility room located between them.

In order to save free space on the land, it is customary to build a multi-storey utility block. The underground floor can be used as a cellar and a compost pit, above there will be a pantry and a workshop, a bathroom and a summer kitchen, as well as a small rooming house. As an extension, a barn for birds and livestock, as well as a firewood shed, are being built. In the attic there is a place for hay, dovecote and seedlings.

You can solve the above problems if you attach a hozblok to a garden house. It is best to attach an outbuilding to a blank wall of a house without windows, which is located on the north, northeast or northwest side.

Foundation laying

So, you have already decided on the location of the future utility block, now you can start building the utility block with your own hands. It is necessary to first cut off the fertile soil layer by 150-200 millimeters, compact and place the sand in a layer of 100 millimeters. Then you should mark the perimeter of the base and mark the points where the columnar foundation will be laid - in the middle and at the end corners of the wide sides of the building.

The foundation usually requires 6 pillars, for each drill holes with a diameter of about 200 millimeters and a depth of 1200 millimeters, while each pipe section for the foundation pillar should also be 1200 millimeters long. Pour 100 millimeters of sand or fine gravel into the bottom of each hole, then tamp. Lower the segments of the asbestos-cement pipe into the prepared pits, set their vertical position according to the level. Pour and compact sand between the walls of the pits and pipes to fix them.

Inside the exposed sections of asbestos-cement pipes, it is necessary to pour cement mortar, but only 1/3 of the volume of the pipe. After that, lift the pipe up by 100-150 millimeters, fix it in level and wait 2-3 days until a concrete base is formed at the bottom of the pits, the diameter of which is larger than the diameter of the pipe, thanks to which, during winter heaving of the earth, the columnar foundation of the utility block will not rise with your own hands.

Then prepare 4 pieces of reinforcement, which have a diameter of 10 millimeters, a length of at least 350 millimeters, of which 150 millimeters are immersed in the solution, which will fill the pipe segments, and 200 millimeters protrude. After that, prepare the solution, completely fill the capacity of each pipe, accompanying the casting with the bayonet procedure and placing the embedded reinforcement in the center. The complete hardening of the foundation takes two weeks, during which time the pillars should be hidden from sunlight and periodically moistened with water.

Frame erection

It is customary to assemble the frame from a bar, which has a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. Connect the beam forming the frame to each other with a “half-tree” groove and fix with four galvanized self-tapping screws. To install the frame on the foundation pillars, grooves are marked and drilled in it. Between the pillars and the frame on the foundation, you need to lay a layer of roofing material, bend the protruding edges down so that moisture does not accumulate under the timber.

The wooden frame before the final installation, like all other wooden elements of the hozblok, treat with an antiseptic and two layers of drying oil. Three lags from a bar are installed along the length of the grillage perimeter in increments of 1350 millimeters. To build a frame, prepare a beam with a section of 100 by 150 and 100 by 100 millimeters.

It is convenient to lay the frame beam of different lengths, as shown in the do-it-yourself video of the hozblok - on the front side with a length of 3000, on the back side with a length of 2400 millimeters, thereby greatly simplifying the procedure for manufacturing single-pitched roof rafters.

First, assemble identical end frames, each of them will have an opening for a window. All joints of the grillage frame and vertical posts are made on reinforced galvanized corners and self-tapping screws. Set up the front side stand first. At a distance of 1000 millimeters from it, two racks are attached with a distance of 600 millimeters between them. The last rack 2400 mm long completes the installation of the end of the utility block.

To achieve greater diagonal rigidity, install struts with a section of 100 by 100 millimeters between the first and second, third and fourth racks. Cut the ends of the struts at an acute angle of 45 degrees, bolt them to the frame and uprights. Between the second and third racks, set the window crossbars. In the same way, you need to assemble the second end frame of the hozblok.

Then you can start assembling the frame of the front facade - set the main racks, which have a length of 3000 millimeters. Two of them were already set when the end frames were assembled, two middle ones need to be installed, the step between the near posts should be 1800 millimeters. In order not to “walk” the racks, temporarily connect them with a board to self-tapping screws or nails.

Since the internal area after the construction of the utility block will be divided into several separate rooms, it is required to arrange a window opening and doorways in the front facade. The width of each of them can be made the same. It may also differ. Between the third and second racks, counted from the front frame, you need to set diagonal braces.

The frame of the rear facade is carried out in the following sequence: there are already end posts, you need to set 2 intermediate ones 2400 mm long in increments of 1800 mm and install braces between the first and last two posts. Perform the upper trim from a beam at a height of 2000 millimeters from the frame of the grillage. It will consist of segments that are equal to the distance between the vertical posts, and be fixed on self-tapping screws through a reinforced steel corner.

Vertical racks are made of 2 boards that have a section of 40 by 120 millimeters. One board is attached to the inside of the harness with screws, the other is attached to the first one on the frame of the harness, either overlaid or with an emphasis. Each composite rack must be fastened with nails through 400-500 millimeters. After checking the verticality of the rack, it is necessary to strengthen it with struts. The work on the construction of the hozblok can be completed by attaching the upper trim, which will be based on external racks for strength.

Assembly of rafters and roofing

The assembly of the rafters is carried out on the ground, the installation on the racks of the economic unit is already done. Rafters with a length of 5000 millimeters are made of timber, which has a section of 100 by 50 millimeters, they are interconnected by a crate of a 30-mm edged board with a pitch between the rafters of about 850 millimeters.

The distance between the crate will depend on the weight of the roofing material with which you plan to cover the roof - for example, when using metal tiles, there is no need to create a continuous crate. Conversely, when using a soft roof, it is better to use a solid crate.

At an angle of 10 degrees, it is necessary to cut grooves in the racks where the rafters will rest. Its overhangs and cornices should be sewn up before installing the roof; for this, a 30 mm edged board is used. To install the rafters on the racks, you need to pre-drill holes in them for self-tapping screws. Then place the structure on the logs behind the household block along them and with the face up, using the stops, lift to the place of placement.

Create a crate with an uncut board along the rafters after 0.8 meters and overlap with roofing felt - at least 100 millimeters. Lay slate sheets from bottom to top along the roofing material. Cover the sidewalls of the sheets by one wave and attach with screws to the crate, having previously drilled holes in the ridges that have a diameter of 2 millimeters more than the diameter of the screws. Be sure to place rubber washers under the screw heads. If desired, a heater can be placed in the interstitial space. Hem the ceiling with hardboard or planed wood.

Final work

So you built a hozblok. After carrying out these works, you should do the wall cladding from the outside. To do this, you can use lining, edged board, OSB boards. For wall insulation, it is best to take mineral wool. Between the insulation and the outer skin, it is also customary to lay glassine, which serves as a waterproofing layer. It is undesirable to lay glassine on the inside, as it does not have a very pleasant smell. For hydro and vapor barrier of internal walls, it is recommended to use foil, which can improve the thermal insulation of rooms.

It is customary to make floors in the hozblok from planed 40 mm boards. When working on flooring from unplaned boards, it is necessary to additionally polish them or cover them with linoleum. Wiring can be carried out outside or hidden in the walls, but it must be enclosed in special insulating boxes to protect against fire.

In the shower room, a place should be provided in the floor for fixing the tray with the installation of a shower drain device - approximately 800 by 800 millimeters. Around lay a clean floor flush with the equipped pallet. The walls of the locker room and sink are sheathed with unplaned tessellated and upholstered using hardboard. Between the sink and the locker room they put a partition with an opening, but without a door leaf. Frame-panel partitions for use inside the utility block are formed by a “half-tree” connection and fastened to self-tapping screws.

After you have built a hozblok and a shower room, you can do the restroom. The toilet in the hozblok is made without a cesspool. If you wish, you can install a dry closet in this room or make a drain to the septic tank - a special plastic tank that is installed at an angle to the block and cleaned as it is filled. You can put both, although a dry closet for the first time will be quite enough.

Doors and windows are installed before the start of the final finishing work inside the utility block. All cracks and joints must be blown out with mounting foam so that a draft does not walk. Windows and door frames are certainly the easiest to buy at the nearest building market, but you can build them yourself.

Boxes should be made from boards that are close to 40 millimeters thick. The overall dimensions of the boxes are 1.9 by 0.8 meters, on the back wall in the toilet it is recommended to provide a small window under the ceilings in addition to the front one. It is customary to assemble door leafs on mortise dowels or planks from boards, which differ in a thickness of about 40 millimeters.

After we built the hozblok with our own hands and finished the building, there were still a couple of working moments left. If expensive tools and equipment are stored in the dacha hozblok, you should protect yourself from thieves by additionally equipping the windows with special bars. Although it is not a residential building, you still need to take care of the integrity and safety of its structural elements. When it rains, you can see how water flows from the roof of the hozblok to the ground and splashes the walls. The design is damp, over time, the walls begin to rot. To divert water away, it is recommended to use gutters.

Special hanging gutters are made rectangular or semicircular. For a semicircular gutter, it is necessary to determine the diameter, adding about 3 centimeters on each side to beat off the stiffeners. Round the gutter on a firmly attached pipe. To hang the gutter, it is customary to install two extreme brackets, then a cord is pulled between them and the remaining brackets are mounted along it. Strengthen the gutter in such a way that a slight slope is obtained for the drain.

Now you know how to make a hozblok at their summer cottage! All construction work usually takes from one week to 30 days. Therefore, building a hozblok with your own hands is more profitable than buying a ready-made solution.

At first glance, it seems that building a barn is easy. I chose a picture I liked on the Internet or drawings of a vending hozblok - and build yourself to your health. Moreover, you can make a barn from timber, using frame technology, or even stone - from brick or aerated concrete. But, behind the seeming lightness lies the main "pitfall". The shed from the picture is not yours, but "that guy." Will it suit you, will it be convenient to use this outbuilding, will it fit everything that is intended? You will learn the answers to these questions, and more, from our article. Namely:

• What is the shed for?
• How to determine the optimal size of an outbuilding.
• How to turn a barn into a multifunctional building.
• From what and on what foundation are hozbloks built.

How to start building a barn

Often the barn is the first building that is erected on the site, at the stage of the beginning of the construction of the house, or even before that. To hide tools, building materials, shelter from the weather or spend the night - in everything, the "shed" becomes an indispensable and universal assistant.

After the site is inhabited, tools and equipment are stored in the outbuilding, which is necessary for caring for the garden and vegetable garden.

They drag snow-removing equipment, lawn mowers, building materials that remained after the construction of the cottage. And often - everything that is a pity to throw out or is planned to be left “for later”, because everything goes into business with a zealous owner.

It is not surprising that over time, the barn turns into a "trash bin", clogged with a mass of necessary and unnecessary things. If it is easier for the owner to go to the market and buy the wrench or hardware needed on the farm than to find them in the household block, then something needs to be done about it. And you need to start in advance, even before the start of the construction of the barn, having correctly designed it and calculated the optimal dimensions.

MAKS001 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a brick house of 200 sq. m and an ordinary change house measuring 6x3 meters. One day I realized that the change house, which had been in operation for 3 years, had outlived its usefulness. I sold it and thought about what to do with the instrument and other things pulled out of it. Decided to build a barn. At this stage, I made a fatal mistake - I consulted with my wife about the dimensions of the outbuilding. As a result of lengthy negotiations, during which the spouse did not see the point in building something big, we came to a common denominator - a small utility block, approximately 2.5x3 meters + high ceilings.

We will immediately show what happened to the user.

The problem is that all the beautiful "pictures" of the correct placement of things in the barn crashed on the reefs of harsh reality a year later. Racks and shelves were filled with various "trash", and there was practically no free space left.

When asked what to do with it, the user found the only correct answer - to attach another ... shed to the barn. According to MAX001, a headache can be avoided if you immediately build an outbuilding of normal size. And so I had to buy another iron door, build walls, and further down the list.

But now everything fits in the barn.

Although there is an opinion that the larger the barn, the more it can be cluttered up, there are minimum dimensions below which it is not worth building. Otherwise, everything will have to be thrown to the ceiling, stuffing the barn like a shopping bag. There will never be order in the hozblok. The starting point for calculating the dimensions of the hozblok is the physical dimensions of the things that you are going to store there.

Ironka FORUMHOUSE Member

My mother in the country built a barn measuring only 9 square meters. m. As a result: now you can only stand in the middle. Moreover, nothing large, in the form of some special equipment, is stored there. Only a bicycle, greenhouse films, choppers, axes, saws, nails and various small things. I think that building a barn is less than 15-18 square meters. m is not worth it. So there will still be room in reserve.

MAX001

My barn is about 12 sq. m. saves that the ceilings are high, you can put racks. I even use a place between the rafters - I filled the bars and store folding country furniture there, and in the summer - skis.

In addition, the functionality of the barn was increased by the user by mounting a shed for a firewood shed on the outside (stone) wall, where about 2 cubes of logs can now be stored.

Cosolapyj Member of FORUMHOUSE

I decided to build a Barnhouse style barn because the number of tools and different equipment exceeded all reasonable limits. It is not possible to store everything compactly, so the barn will have the appropriate dimensions - 8x18 meters, on the UWB.

When building outbuildings, the user recommends adhering to the principle of "do a little more than you can afford at once, and you won't have to redo it for longer."

Let's add what's in the shed Cosolapyj plans to equip a workshop, make a water connection for a car wash, and also (eventually) install an ATV and a garden grader.

We also give plans for the barn.

From left to right: a storage room and a place for a grader, in the middle - a workshop, on the left - a shed.

How to calculate the optimal dimensions of the barn and turn it into a universal hozblok

As can be seen from the above, under the word "barn" each developer means his own building. In one case, you need a small hozblok for storing garden tools and various little things, and in the other, the barn grows to the size of a house. But there is one nuance that unites them. It's ease of use.

The barn should be practical, which means it is made for specific needs.

Therefore, instead of taking the dimensions of the shed from the Internet or from a neighbor, it is better to decide for yourself what you need the shed for and what you plan to store in it.

There are many options for such planning. For example, at the initial stage of construction in the barn, it is necessary to place a tool, some building materials, and equip sleeping places.

In the future, the shed can also be transformed from just a “pantry” on the site - to become a workshop, as well as a place to store firewood or pellets.

Or it can turn into a "garage" for storing various equipment - a motor cultivator, lawn mower, vibrorammer, snow blower, etc.

Any summer resident has a basic set of tools and agricultural equipment, without which one cannot do on the site. It is from this list that we must build on when calculating the minimum dimensions of the barn.

For example, to store a simple set of garden tools - shovels, rakes, axes, choppers, small shovels, saws, brooms - you can take 2 square meters. m.

If you plan to actively engage in a garden and store fertilizers, greenhouse materials in the shed, increase the area to 3-4 square meters. m.

If you have electric tools: a gas trimmer, a pressure washer, garden pumps, hoses, sets of ordinary tools, you need even more space - 5 or more square meters.

Practice shows that the average and the optimal value for an outbuilding can be taken as dimensions of 3x6 meters with a height of 2.5 m.

In this case, it will be possible to place lengthy building materials in the barn - boards and fittings. Arrange a small workplace for a home master, put up racks for storing hardware and a variety of household items.

When building a barn, do not forget about arranging a small terrace with a canopy, where you can work outside in bad weather or just relax, sitting at the table in the evening.

An important stage is the zoning of the barn. To do this, we divide the building into a number of rooms - blocks, each of which stores its own. For example, "dirty" things - a garden wheelbarrow, shovels, rakes, spades, watering hoses, i.e. what is necessary for working with the earth, it is better not to drag it to the outbuilding, but place it on the side in a small compartment with separate doors.

So these tools will always be at hand and you won’t have to sweep / wipe the floor in the barn every time, cleaning sand, black soil, fertilizers or clay.

We allocate space for the desktop, shelves with carpentry and metalwork tools and storage places for bolts, nuts, nails, screws, etc.

rule: what is required first of all and most often, we put closer to the entrance. What is used rarely or depending on the season can be located in the back of the barn against the far wall.

If you plan to store long materials in the barn, then the door, for the convenience of dragging them in, should not be done in the middle of the building, but on the side - on the right or left, or at the end. If you do not “be greedy” at the height of the barn, then the attic can also become the best place to store the remnants of fittings, boards, plywood, pipes.

Those. everything that is not needed often, but if necessary, can be easily obtained. In addition, even before construction, we think over whether the barn will be insulated. In our climatic conditions, this will allow working in a farm building in late autumn and winter.

Hozblok: design options and construction features

Experienced developers are well aware that it is better to learn from the mistakes of others so as not to make jambs in their construction. To do this, it is best to study the experience of portal users who have already built sheds and change houses. Therefore, in this part of the article, we have collected illustrative examples of practical household blocks.

What materials can a barn be built from? The experience of our users testifies: from any. It all depends on the budget and the intended design. Everything is being used, they are erecting from wooden budget household blocks standing on, to capital buildings made of brick or aerated concrete. In any case, you should start with the development of a plan, and ideally a project. An illustrative example of a portal member with a nickname AlexanderFJTI.

AlexanderFJTI FORUMHOUSE user

It all started with the fact that I conceived the construction of an economic complex - combining a barn, a terrace and a bathhouse under one roof. Construction began with a layout. I bought rails in a store and, together with my son, built a model of a multi-shed in the winter.

Note that the barn was built according to one of the most common technologies used for the construction of such objects - frame. Screw piles were used as the foundation.

AlexanderFJTI

21 piles were driven by a team of three people by hand. They worked very quickly. The piles were cut to the water level, the shaft was filled with a cement-sand mortar, and a head was welded on top and everything was painted. Then I started building the frame. And here's what happened in the end.

To save on the services of a construction team, it is better to build a barn on your own, and use the experience gained when building a house.

Another approach was taken goshapiter.

Goshapiter Member of FORUMHOUSE

I had a barn on the site, which my grandfather built back in 2001. The building has served faithfully all these years, but it has become "cramped" for the entire economy stored there. In addition, it was worn out, so I decided to build a new one from non-removable polystyrene foam formwork. Dimensions from the inside - 4800x3600 mm. The roof is flexible tiles.

As a foundation, the user erected a "ribbon", in the perimeter of which, from the inside, a slab was poured.

In this embodiment, the slab is at the same time the finished subfloor of the shed. In addition, the problem of possible rotting of the wooden floor falls off. You can also, without fear of a "trampoline", put heavy racks in the shed, a table with tools, machines and a vice.

From the inside, the utility block was trimmed with OSB boards, which were fixed on the rails from the drywall attachment. Outside used siding.

Goshapiter

Everything fit in the barn - bicycles, garden motor vehicles, tiles left over from the construction of the house. The construction took 1.5 months. It would have turned out faster if it weren’t for the “wet” concrete work.

Another example of an unusual barn - hozblok Dmitr173, folded from homemade grooved boards.

Dmitry173 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I, like any owner of a suburban area, thought about building a barn. It should accommodate: a small workshop, the wife needs a corner for storing garden and garden supplies. In addition, I would like to build something original - for the soul.

After compiling the TOR and going through several options, the user decided to build a barn from a grooved board. The foundation is a proven and relatively budgetary MZLF (shallow strip foundation).

To maximize the use of natural light, a transparent polycarbonate insert is provided in the roof of the barn.

Are you a suburban owner? If yes, then you know that in the country it is simply impossible to do without a utility block (or barn). In it you can store auxiliary materials, various tools, agricultural implements and garden items. This is a necessary building, and if you do not have it, you can think about building it. Moreover, you can build a do-it-yourself hozblok for a summer residence, since special labor and special skills are not required. We suggest you study the material that will help you make a barn from start to finish.

Stage 1: design

Building a hozblok can help you solve several problems:

• the room will serve you as a workshop and storage for tools and equipment;
• the building may have additional areas, such as a shower and toilet;
• it can be equipped not only with a bathroom, but also with a place to relax - a room with upholstered furniture and amenities.

All this can be achieved through planning. The barn can be one of the 3 types of buildings listed above, or it can include all of them. It all depends on your needs and desires.

Do not assume that the barn should be inconspicuous and ugly. You do not need to set the task of doing it at minimal cost. Thanks to the efforts and work, you can make a wonderful hozblok that will not be inferior in beauty and functionality to your country house.

When making drawings, think about the size, height and number of compartments you need. Moreover, when designing a building, remember that it must meet the following criteria:

1. The most correctly distributed space.
2. Long service life and reliability.
3. Carrying out the necessary communications: electricity and water. If your hozblok with a toilet, you need to provide.

You will not spend a lot of money on the construction of such a change house, therefore, when choosing a material, stop at a wooden beam. This is the most common and suitable material. For example, buildings from an ordinary board will not stand for a long time. But the hozblok on a foundation with a frame made of timber meets all the requirements and will serve you for many years.

If you can not draft your change house, use the World Wide Web. Especially for those who do not know how to make projects, people put up ready-made drawings. They can be downloaded for free or purchased for a nominal amount.

To create a hozblok, prepare the following tools and materials:

• ax, shovel, screwdriver, hacksaw, electric drill with a set of drills, planer;
• beams, cladding boards, metal anchors;
• finishing material for roofing and walls, sheathing panels, thermal insulation (if necessary).

Stage 2: procurement of material

To make a utility block, the dimensions of which are 6 m long, 3 m wide and 3 m high, with a shed roof and two internal rooms, you need to prepare the following materials:

• plywood - 28 m 2;
• roofing material - 28 m 2;
• timber 150 × 150 mm - 0.65 m 3;
• timber 150 × 100 mm - 0.37 m 3;
• timber 100 × 100 mm - 1.2 m 3;
• timber 50 × 100 mm - 0.15 m 3;
• edged board 30 mm - 2.2 m 3;
• floorboard 40 mm - 0.37 m 3;
• asbestos-cement pipe Ø 150 mm - 6 pcs. 1200 mm each;
• gravel, sand, cement;
• fittings - Ø 10 mm, length 350 mm, 4 pcs.

This completes the preparatory work. The next step will be the correct location of your change house.

Stage 3: choosing a place

Definitely, in order to build a hozblok on your own, you will not need special financial contributions. But be prepared for the fact that the construction process will take your time and effort. To get the job done faster, ask for help from family members or neighbors. However, right before construction, you need to choose where to place the barn in a way that is convenient and meets the requirements. Building codes and regulations (SNiP) in paragraph 30.02.97 state that:

• in the case when the household block will contain pets, birds, or it will serve as a restroom, it must be placed at a distance of 12 m from the walls of a residential building and 4 m to the border of the neighbors' plot;
• if it will be used as a shower cabin, it must be placed at a distance of 8 m from a residential building and 1 m to the border of the neighbors' plot.

If you ignore these requirements, you may be in serious trouble when you want to sell your property. In this case, the state will refuse to execute a sale transaction with buildings until their placement complies with the standards that are in force on the territory of the Russian Federation.

Having chosen the optimal place, we smoothly moved on to the main question, how to build a hozblok in the country. Let's find out.

Stage 4: laying the foundation

So, our goal is to build a building 6 × 3 × 3 m. Since the building itself will not produce a special load on the foundation, it can be made columnar. To make it easier for you, we will divide all the work into separate stages.

1. At the place where the barn will stand, you need to remove the top layer of fertile soil around the perimeter of the building, having previously marked out the future site based on the project.
2. The prepared place needs to be tamped, 10 cm of sand is poured on top and tamped well again.
3. For such a building, six pillars are needed. In the intended place, you need to drill or dig a hole Ø 20 cm, 120 cm deep. Please note that the poles to be installed also have a length of 120 cm.
4. At the bottom of the holes, you need to fill in a layer of sand 10 cm or gravel, and then tamp this pillow.
5. Lower sections of asbestos-cement pipes into the holes. Set them strictly vertically. To fix the pipes, the remaining space between the hole and the walls must be filled with sand and compacted.
6. It's time for the first stage of pouring the pillars. Prepare the concrete and pour it inside the asbestos-cement pipe for 1/3 of the entire length. Then the pipe must be raised by 10-15 cm, leveled, fixed and wait 2-3 days. Such manipulations made it possible to form a concrete base at the bottom of the pits. The diameter of the base will be larger than the diameter of the pipe, which will not allow the columnar foundation to rise when the ground wakes up in winter.
7. After the concrete has dried, the rest of the pipe cavity can be poured. But before that, prepare 4 reinforcement rods Ø 10 mm, thanks to which the grillage from the timber will be securely fixed on the poles. They will need to be drowned in 4 corner posts. Of the total length, trimming reinforcement - 15 cm is needed for immersion in the pipe, and 20 cm will protrude.
8. If you consider reinforcing fixation unreliable, anchors can be fixed in such a foundation. A frame is placed on them and fixed with nuts. In this case, the end of the anchor and the nut must be sunk into the grillage.
9. After preparing the solution, fill each pipe with it. As you pour, compact the concrete with a bayonet to expel air from it. Then install the embedded reinforcement exactly in the center.
10. It remains to wait for the solidification of the solution, which will occur after 2-3 weeks. During this time, you need to cover the poles from the sun and moisten them with water in dry weather.

This completes the foundation work.

Stage 5: assembly and installation of the grillage (frame)

The frame must be assembled from bars, the cross section of which is 150 × 150 mm, its size will be 6 × 3 m. The frame will consist of four sections, 1.5 × 3 m in size. The bars that form the frame are connected to each other with half-tree grooves. They need to be fixed with special two (if the frame is installed on an anchor) or four (if installed on reinforcement) wood screws. To install the frame on the foundation, holes should be made in the right place for the protruding reinforcement or anchor.

In order to ensure sealing, 1-2 layers of roofing material should be placed on the pillars so that its edges protrude by 10 cm. They need to be bent down so that the water drains and does not accumulate under the wooden beam. Before placing the frame on the foundation, the wood should be coated with an antiseptic - apply at least 2 layers of drying oil. The frame is then installed and attached to the foundation. Along the length of the frame, you need to install three “half-tree” logs from a bar 100 × 100 mm, in increments of 135 cm.

Stage 6: frame of the economic block

To build a frame, you will need wooden bars with a section of 100 × 100 mm and 100 × 150 mm. For the convenience of further roofing work, it is necessary to mount the frame timber of different heights. The front side of the frame will be 3 m high and the back side will be 2.4 m high. In this way, it will be easy for you to install rafters for a shed roof.

The first step is to assemble the same end walls. Each of them will have an opening for a window. Racks are fastened vertically to the frame using galvanized steel corners, 130 × 10 mm or 105 × 90 mm in size and self-tapping screws. First you need to put a corner post, the height of which is 3 m, and the section is 150 × 100 mm, with the narrow side towards the end. To do this, it is necessary to make a hole Ø10 mm and a depth of 50 mm in it from below in order to put the beam on the reinforcement that protrudes from the frame. The same holes must be made in the remaining three corner bars. Stepping back 1 m from the corner, you need to fix the other two bars, the section of which is 100 × 100 mm, and the length is 2.4 m. The distance between them should be 0.6 m. The last on the end wall will be the corner beam, which sits on the reinforcement. Its height is 2.4 m, and the cross section is 150 × 100 mm. All racks are attached with corners. And in order for the structure to be strong and rigid, between 1 and 2, 3 and 4 racks you need to make struts, the cross section of which is 100 × 100 mm. To do this, the ends of the struts must be cut at an angle of 45 ° and attached to the frame and uprights using a bolted connection. Remember to put a washer before tightening the nut. Between 2 and 3 racks, you need to insert window crossbars, the cross section of which is 100 × 50 mm. The first crossbar is installed at a height of 1 m from the frame, the second - at 1 m from the first. The second end frame must be assembled in the same way. As a result, you should get, as in the figure.

Now you can assemble the front frame. Set up the main racks 3 m high. There should be four of them, two of which are already in the corners. It remains to install two middle racks. From the extreme racks you need to step back 1.8 m and fix them. So that they do not stagger, temporarily connect them with a board on nails or self-tapping screws to each other. Since the hozblok will be divided into two separate sections, you need to make a window opening in the middle and doorways on the sides. The door frame will be 2 m high and 0.85 m wide. Therefore, take a stand 2.4 m high, with a section of 100 × 100 mm and set it at a distance of 0.85 m from the end stand. Do the same on the other side. In order to strengthen the structure, place diagonal braces between the 2nd and 3rd rack. On the other hand, do the same. Next, you need to install window racks. Again, take a beam 2.4 m high with a section of 100 × 100 mm and fix it at a distance of 0.37 m from the third post (which is 3 m high). Then step back 0.85 m from the installed rack and set up a second one, exactly the same. It remains only to insert the horizontal crossbars. Fix the first at a height of 0.8 m from the frame, the second - 1 m from the first. Now the front side is ready, you should get it as in the picture.

Now make the back facade. Since the corner posts with a height of 2.4 m are already standing, it remains to put 2 intermediate ones, with the same height and a section of 150 × 100 mm. The step from the end post is 1.8 m. Then install two braces between the 1 and 2 posts and 3 and 4.

It remains to make the upper trim, for which you need a beam of 100 × 50 mm. It must be mounted at a height of 2 m from the grillage (frame). To do this, the pieces of timber must be fixed vertically between all the posts around the perimeter. It is necessary to connect them end-to-end, securing with a reinforced steel corner and self-tapping screws. As a result, you should get such a wooden frame, as in the figure on the right.

Stage 7: attaching the rafters

It is more convenient and easier to collect rafters on the ground. It turns out that you will mount them on the frame racks in finished form. In order for the roof to have a visor that will protrude along the perimeter, take rafters 5 m long with a section of 100 × 50 mm. They will be connected to each other by a crate of 30 mm edged boards. The rafters are placed in increments of 0.85 m. The crate does not have to be fastened tightly to each other. It all depends on the roofing material. If its mass is small, the distance may be greater, but if it is large, the boards are stacked more tightly.

To mount the roof, the studs on which it will rest must be cut into grooves at an angle of 10°. Why 10°? Because the difference in height between the front and rear pillars creates exactly this angle. Before installing the roof, you will have to sew up its overhangs and cornices with a 30 mm edged board. After that, make the floor using a floorboard. You can use both nails and screws. Make holes in the racks for self-tapping screws. To lift the finished roof up, you can use logs that must be placed at the back of the building. According to them, the structure is lifted up, the rafters are installed in the grooves on the racks and everything is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Stage 8: sheathing and interior work

Now that the frame is completely ready, it remains to complete the outer skin. A lining is suitable for this purpose. After that, you need to lay the roofing that you choose, insert windows and install doors. To separate two sections inside the hozblok, make a frame-panel partition using a half-tree connection. The ceiling of the building is sheathed with fiberboard or plywood (you need to fix the materials with self-tapping screws). Optionally, you can sheathe the base using an asbestos-cement sheet. And if this is done from the inside and outside, filling the space with expanded clay, then it can be insulated with mineral wool or foam. Then the building will be much warmer, which will allow it to be used not only as a warehouse.

Video

Watch a video on how to build a barn for a summer residence yourself:

This video shows the construction of a wooden hozblok:

A photo

Blueprints

The shed is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building, you can store all kinds of garden accessories, barbecue, garden and home care products, tools. With a strong desire, you can even equip a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.

With proper preparation, the construction of a barn will not take much time and money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are advised to give preference to frame structures - they are the easiest to build.

Instructions for arranging a frame barn will be given below. Read the guidelines and get started.

Choosing a place for a barn

When choosing a place for a barn, be guided by personal preferences. Some owners like it better when the barn is located in some corner of the site. Others are more comfortable when the barn is located next to the house.

It is most rational to build a barn in an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various kinds of crops. Almost anywhere you can find a place like this.

At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a barn, consider the location of other areas of the land, take into account the dimensions of the building being built and its external data. Try to make sure that the barn fits well into the surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.

Work set

1. Machine for wood processing. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will be faster and easier.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Hand circular saw.
4. Electric planer.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Chain Saw.
8. Boards.
9. Logs.
10. Ruberoid.
11. Fasteners.
12. Switches.
13. PVA glue.
14. Sockets.
15. Oilcloth.

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Building boards

Foundation

Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.

For arranging a barn, bases of a columnar, monolithic, tape and pile-screw type are suitable. The columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to just such a design.

Mark out a site for arranging the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.

With a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.

Dig along the perimeter of the marked area, in the corners, as well as at the intersection points of the internal partitions of the pit 500-700 mm deep (sometimes deeper, depending on the level of soil freezing) for installation. The optimal spacing of the pillars is 1.2-1.5 m.

Arrange supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars - choose at your discretion.

Make sure that the pillars are evenly installed using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand and gravel mixture for about 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill in the remaining space.

Leave the foundation to gain strength for a few days.

Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support posts with special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.

Start assembling the frame of the future barn. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. It is simply more convenient to use such a tool - untreated places will be clearly visible.

Lay a support from a bar on a dried base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the barn being built.

Lay the beam on the support posts, previously covered with waterproofing material (roofing material). Fasten the columns in any suitable way at your discretion.

Lay wooden boards 3-4 cm thick on the frame. At this stage of work, the main thing is to carefully cut out the parts of the boards near the vertical racks as accurately as possible.

Fasten the boards to the floorboards "in the sweat".

When determining the required number of support posts, consider the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.

Set the bars strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the desired position. Use nails to temporarily hold the elements together. Hammer them about half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties with the dismantling of temporary supports.

Attach vertical support posts to the bottom trim of the frame. Fix with the help of corners, self-tapping screws, as well as pins coming out of the base.

The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are arranged along the perimeter of the foundation, and after that, wooden vertical racks are installed on them.

Carry out the processing of the three inner sides of the vertical bar with an electric planer. From the sides directed towards the inside of the barn, chamfer. Without processing, leave only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.

Roofing and wall cladding

Attach the upper component of the barn frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the beam according to the size of the racks. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.

Traditionally, sheds are equipped with roof structures. In this case, the length of the wooden posts on one side must exceed the length of the opposite supports.

Such placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.

Equip the roof structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.

In places where the rafters join the beams, first make cuts. Lay the rafters on the frame and secure with self-tapping screws. The installation step of the rafters is 40-50 cm.

Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach the batten boards to the frame. Boards with dimensions of 2.5x15 cm are optimally suited.

The roof of the boards requires the mandatory arrangement of the layer. Traditionally, roofing material is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finish, equip the waterproofing with a plastic film.

Choose the finish of your choice. You can lay, profiled sheet, euro slate, etc.

Lining is suitable for cladding the walls of the building, you can also fix chipboard, boards and other similar materials. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then finish the cladding of the side and back walls. Fasten the boards without gaps.

If necessary, treat the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Usually, such processing is needed only when cladding walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and rain on a smooth surface lingers much less.

If desired, you can paint the walls of the barn. For painting such buildings, oil and water-based compositions are best suited.

Carry out the internal arrangement of the finished barn at your discretion. If the building is designed to store various kinds of tools and accessories, install convenient racks and shelves around the perimeter. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.

You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or you can make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, furniture remnants, etc.

This barn is ready. You just have to bring it to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.

Successful work!

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Decking

Video - How to build a barn with your own hands