He continues to delight young scientists with new projects. Let me remind you that the "corporate" format of their event consists of three stages: excursion + prototyping + design. And this time we will do ballista.
Accordingly, at first, an excursion was conducted near the walls and towers of the Kremlin, then a tabletop model was made from small parts, and at the last stage, a ballista was built "in full growth."
Indeed, isn't it cool to make with your own hands what you saw only in pictures and in computer games?
When I say "ballista", I personally get images from Heroes 3, or at least from Heroes 5
We managed to skip the first two stages (which we really regret), so I'll tell you how the design stage goes.
So, today Tolya and Andrey are at the lesson. Common success depends on their joint actions.
Begin!
1. First, a little theory. We study the strong and weak sides Moscow Kremlin. The brickwork, the cylindrical shape of the towers - all this is not a breeze! This is so that the enemy does not pass.
2. Trebuchet stool. Prefabricated siege structure. Uses a heavy counterweight for throwing.
3. Catapult. Powerful siege weapon to shatter walls
4. And here is the ballista. Shoots with heavy spears, stones, iron bolts. used against heavy infantry and cavalry.
5. There are 10 sticks and three strings under the table.
7. Let's start with the biggest detail.
8. Spandorize two smaller parts
9. Cover with a lid so as not to fall apart
10. And what is the string for?
11. Rope is such a thing! And you can do anything to her!
12. She enters! ..
13. ... And it comes out!
14. Both goes out and comes in!
15. Great!
16. On both sides, the rope is held by "toothpicks" :)
17. Toothpicks must be tightened firmly.
18. The tighter you tighten, the more powerful the shot will be.
19. And we shoot with an arrow-pipe.
Since our engineers are smart, after all, high school students, they did it quickly. And there was even time left for the demonstration of the equipment of the 3D laboratory, in the premises of which the assembly was carried out.
20. For example, using an electronic cutter, you can make such a detail in a few minutes.
21. To create and load a project, a special software is used, where the drawing and parameters are set
22. And this is the machine itself.
23. This is a 3D printer that just printed the lost cap for the camera lens. I typed for several hours. And the print job was sent to him from an application from a smartphone. What technology has come to!
24. All these beautiful gimmicks are printed and cut on the hardware
How to diversify the child's leisure time? Offer him something new, still unknown. Remember what toys you played as a child, and think about what the boy will be interested in. Wars, armies, catapults, heavy artillery - all this attracts boys. Therefore, we will talk about a mini-catapult for games.
The catapult is related to the slingshot. Do you know how to make a smaller version of a catapult? In real form, a formidable and serious weapon, in a reduced form - an interesting toy for children. How can a boy do without such a device in battle? Making a toy catapult is easy, but not always within the power of a child. Here mom will come to the rescue, who is truly a craftswoman - she will build a dollhouse and help with a catapult.
The idea of co-creation is a great chance to spend time together, to get closer to your child. Encourage your son to build a catapult together and overcome difficulties by telling him how to make a catapult step by step.
Useful for design:
So how do you make a catapult? The assembly of the structure consists of three stages:
How to make a catapult for children's games and which option to choose, read on.
There are many ways to construct catapults. Check out another option for outdoor play. Remember that a catapult, even a toy catapult, cannot be 100% safe for a child, so never leave children alone with such devices.
You can make such a toy in 40-60 minutes, and for design you will need:
Prepare a saw, a screwdriver, drills from the tools.
The scheme for making a homemade catapult at home is as follows:
Now you know how to make a catapult with your own hands. After reviewing the most simple methods its design, you can easily cope with the task and present your child with a new toy in addition to the existing arsenal.
Once there were no guns, no guns, no revolvers. People fought with spears, swords and ... just stones. In ancient times, during the siege of fortresses, special weapons were used for throwing large stones - catapults. These simple war machines used the "energy" of twisted ropes twisted from sinew.
The model of the catapult is easy to make for the guys themselves. It is arranged very simply. A wooden frame with uprights, a rubber band instead of a rope and a spoon for stones - these are all its main parts (Fig. 1).
For the manufacture of the frame, you will need two long (130 - 150 mm) and two short (40 - 50 mm) slats with a section of 15 × 10 mm. Knock down the frame as shown in Figure 2 by placing the short slats between the long ones. Then make uprights with a crossbar and nail them to the frame (figure 3). Racks should be reinforced with slopes. Take the rail, attach it at the junction of the frame and the stand (Fig. 4), mark and saw off. Make four of these slopes and nail them so that they fit tightly to the frame and post.
1 frame; 2-rack; 3-crossbar; 4-slope; 5-wheel; 6-spoon; 7-rubber; 8-axis
It remains to make the wheels and the spoon. Saw off the wheels from a round stick and nail them in the center to the frame with studs that will serve as axles. Use a ready-made spoon or cut it out of a plank.
Now take the rubber band, wrap it around the bottom of the racks several times, twist the rubber and insert a spoon between its bundles. The catapult is ready for battle.
I. VOLKOV, Reutovo, Moscow region
Probably, each of us heard about catapults, even in childhood tried to do something like that. Most of the boys did it. Today, it is much easier to build a catapult, it is enough to flip through the Internet pages, watch various video reviews and you can understand what scheme is used to make such a throwing weapon, once used in military affairs.
Photo. Mini catapult made at home
Ancient Greek catapults, like Roman catapults, were used to combat enemy armor. As a rule, they were large throwing machines. The Romans used catapults not only for throwing stones (such weapons were called ballistas), but also for throwing arrows - arrows.
The size of the ballista depended on the caliber of the stone used.
Photo. Ballista
Despite the fact that many people know about catapults, not everyone has an idea about their origin, except that they appeared in antiquity. It is worth saying that the origin of catapults is really very ancient, their roots go back to ancient Rome, but besides them, in those days, ballista was also used in military affairs as a throwing weapon.
Photo. Catapult
A catapult and a ballista have a lot in common, including a similar shape, principle of operation and ancient history... It was these two murder weapons that were very popular in antiquity and were used in ancient wars. The strength of both machines lay in twisted ropes made from bovine veins or female horse hair. The external appearance of the weapons resembles crossbows, although there is practically nothing in common between them, since the power of the crossbow lies in the curved shoulders. The ancient Greeks called today's catapult, a machine for throwing stones, that is, a stone thrower, over time the name was changed to an arrow thrower. Ballista and catapult differ both in the method of firing and in their projectiles.
Photo. Diy mini catapult scheme
If you decide to make a catapult for a child, we recommend that you leave the children alone with such a toy. Despite the fact that this kind of fun is fun and harmless, you must remember that the toy is a weapon and who knows what can happen if you do not control the game.
To make a catapult, you will need to prepare wooden planks with a length of about 1.5 meters. As a fixed rail, a board half a meter is required, the lever must be movable and measure 60-65 cm.
Then you need to attach the same rail to the front end using self-tapping screws. To keep it as strong as possible, you can install a special mounting angle inside. Then you install a tin can or any other container on the top of the movable arm, into which you can put ammunition for throwing.
Screw the twisted screws (4 pcs.) Into the wooden board, pass the elastic band through them. The finished version of the catapult should look approximately the same as in the photo.
Photo. Anyone can make such a catapult
In order for the tourniquet to be strong and reliable, you will need to twist the elastic bands, for this it is better to take several pieces of them and make a special rubber tourniquet. The do-it-yourself catapult is ready. At home you can launch a variety of objects from such a weapon, rubber or tennis balls, balls, small stones. Just follow the safety measures so that you do not accidentally injure yourself or others during the game.
If you want to keep your child busy, you can make a mini catapult and teach it to the kid. Moreover, it is very easy to do this at home, the main thing is to collect the required number of ice cream sticks, you will need 9 pieces of them, you also need to prepare 5 rubber bands and a cover from plastic bottle.
Photo. How to make a catapult from gum and ice cream sticks
Many video reviews that can be found on the Internet will tell you how to make a mini catapult correctly. So what do you need to do. You will need to connect all seven sticks together, securing them at the ends with rubber bands in a stationary state.
The two sticks that you left need to be folded together and secured on one side. The free ends will need to be pushed apart and seven sticks tied with rubber bands must be moved into the gap formed. A bunch of sticks must be pushed as deeply as possible, and then in this position they must be secured with elastic bands in a criss-cross manner.
On the shelf that will serve as the top of the catapult, attach the plastic bottle cap with glue. Your mini catapult, made at home with your own hands, is ready, you can please your child or arrange a competition with friends, who will then throw ammunition for throwing.
This simple mechanical toy will give a lot of pleasure to the young knights laying siege to impregnable fortresses.
Catapult Is a medieval siege weapon designed to throw huge stones and other heavy shells into enemy fortifications. With the help of a long lever, set in motion by a counterweight, she could throw objects weighing up to 150 kg at a distance of several hundred meters at high speed. The shell was placed in a sling stretched along the platform. When fired, the long lever, together with the tied sling, quickly rose vertically and one of the ends of the sling was released, allowing the projectile to fly to the target.
1. Cut the sides out of a maple board 6 mm thick A and platform V according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of materials". Lay the platform on 3 mm thick pads and glue the sides to its edges, aligning the ends of the parts (fig. 1 and 1a). Make sure the gluing is square and fix the parts with clamps.
2. Cut out support bars from 13 mm thick material WITH... Place a 6 mm groove disc in the sawing machine. Using the corner (cross) stop with a wooden bead and a stopper, cut grooves 3 mm deep in the support bars at a distance of 25 mm from the ends (fig. 1), turning the parts 180 ° after each pass.
Quick tip! Check the settings on a trial cut. With two passes with a turn of the part, even a small inaccuracy is doubled, and the required distance between the grooves cannot be obtained. Make test passes on the cut of the same length and change the settings if necessary.
Glue, fixing with clamps, support bars C to the sides of platform A. Place the outer bars as shown in the photo, and the inner bars at a distance of 51 mm from them.
Lubricate the grooves with glue and glue the bars to the sides of the platform (fig. 1 and photo A).
1. Cut the racks out of 13 mm thick material D... Use a milling table to chamfer 3 mm wide along the outer ribs as well as along the ends of each post (fig. 1). Drill 5 mm through holes for the brass rod in the indicated locations.
2. Make four copies of the brace template E... From a 6 mm thick plank, cut out the blanks for the struts and attach the templates to them using aerosol glue. Using a jigsaw or band saw, saw out the parts and sand them to the contour line. Remove templates with a cloth soaked in solvent.
3. Apply glue to the long edge of the two braces E... Glue them to the rack D flush with the bottom end and the inner edge (no chamfers). Glue the second pair of braces to the other rack.
Glue the assembled struts to the sides of platform A by connecting them with a brass rod and aligning them in the middle over the middle support bars C.
4. For fixing ready-made racks D / E to the assembled platform A / B / C Take a 5mm brass bar and saw off a 108mm long piece to help align the posts. Apply a bead of glue along the bottom edge of each strut assembly and upright from the inside. Insert the brass rod into the holes of the posts (photo B). Glue the struts to the sides of the platform, centering them over a pair of middle legs. WITH... When the glue is dry, remove the brass bar.
1. Saw out the workpiece for the lever F... Make a copy of the lever template and use spray glue to attach it to the workpiece. Saw out the lever and sand to the contour line. Delete the template.
Note. Drill the 5 mm through hole shown on the template after gluing the padsG.
2. From a material with a thickness of 19 mm, cut a workpiece with a size of 35 × 305 mm for overlays G... Make two copies of the overlay template and attach them to the workpiece using spray glue. Saw out the overlays and sand them along the contour.
3.Using a drilling machine, drill into the edges of the overlays G holes with a diameter of 3 and 5 mm in the locations indicated on the template.
Clamping the part in a wooden hand vise, mill chamfers with a width of 3 mm on the pads G at the locations indicated on the template.
Quick tip! DAccurate alignment of the parts and the brass bar requires careful drilling of 5mm holes. To center the hole in hard maple wood exactly where you want it, use a center point drill instead of a conventional twist drill. To keep the holes aligned, make sure the drill table is set exactly 90 ° to the drilling axis.
Now mill chamfers 3 mm wide along the indicated edges and ends of the overlays on both sides. (photo C). Delete templates. For safe handling of these small parts, hold them in place with a wooden hand vise and also minimize gaps around the cutter by inserting a replacement ring of a suitable diameter into the mounting plate. If your milling table doesn't have this option, use the “Craftsman's Tip” below for a simple alternative.
No replaceable ring plate? Use an overlay!
There is a simple and quick way to make such an overlay. It will close the gap around the cutter, becoming a backlash-free insert, and will provide reliable support for small parts, allowing them to be processed safely. Moreover, it will cost you quite inexpensively - only a piece of hardboard is required to make it.
4. Places for gluing the pads G marked on the lever template F... Glue one pad to the lever and secure it with a clamp. When the glue is dry, drill a 5mm hole in the lever for the brass rod (Photo D). Then, when glue the second pad to the lever, aligning the holes with a brass rod (photo E).
(Photo D) After gluing one of the pads G to the arm-boom F, drill a 5 mm hole in the arm through the hole in the pad. (Photo E) Glue the second trim G on the other side, aligning it with a brass rod inserted in the center hole.
1. Saw out the sides from a 6 mm thick plank N as well as front and rear I walls and bottom J... Additionally saw out another bottom piece to use as a spacer when assembling the box. Mark, file and sand the corner bevels on the sidewalls H (Fig. 2). Now pack the box (photo F and G).
(Photo F) Apply adhesive to the end edges of the bottom J. Using the clamps, press the front and rear walls I against them, inserting the leveling spacer between them. (Photo G) Now apply glue to the edges of the bottom, back and front I / J sides. Press the side walls of H. onto them with clamps.
2. Mill on the outside of the sidewalls N chamfers 3 mm wide (fig. 2).
3. Cut out the overlays from 13 mm thick material TO and drill 6 mm through holes in them using a drill with a center point. Then make the corner bevels 6 mm wide. Due to the small size, sand these parts by hand using a sanding pad and 100 grit sandpaper.
4. Glue the pads TO to the side walls N, aligning them in the center with an indentation of 13 mm from the top, and secure with clamps.
1. Drill in the lever F pilot hole 1.5 × 6 mm for ring head screws (fig. 3). Then drill a 1.5 x 10 mm hole in the upper end of the arm for the 16 mm long engagement bar. Screw the ring screw and hook into the holes, leaving a 6 mm protrusion.
2. To make a sling, take two 220mm lengths of cord and a 25x90mm piece of sturdy cloth or suede. Use an awl to make holes at the ends of the material at the indicated locations. Tie the end of one piece of cord to the hole in the sling and the other end to the screw ring at the end of the arm. Then tie a 6mm washer to one end of the second piece, and tie the remaining end to the free hole in the sling.
3. Before installing the boom arm with pads F / G between the racks D drive 5 × 20 countersunk screws into the 3mm holes in the cover plates G to a depth of about 13 mm (fig. 1). Then insert the assembled assembly F / G between the uprights by passing a brass rod-axis with a diameter of 5 mm into the hole and adding 6 mm washers between the linings G and racks D.
4. For hanging the counterweight box H / I / J / K fasten on both pads TO eyebolts with a diameter of 6 mm using M6 nuts without tightening them (fig. 1). Then slide the eyebolt rings onto the screws threaded into the boom arm pads and tighten the fasteners. (photo N and I).
(Photo H) Place the eyebolts on the screws screwed into the lining G. Secure the eyebolts with nuts. (Photo I) Drive the screws deeper into the gussets G to securely fasten the eyebolts. The counterweight, however, should swing easily.
5. Finally, sand all parts of the catapult with 220 grit sandpaper and apply the finishing coat of your choice. Can't wait to experience the Throwing Machine in action? Read the box “How the Catapult Shoots” for tips on how to use this toy effectively and safely. Now is the time to declare war on the enemy!
The principle of its operation is the same as that of the giant war machines of the Middle Ages, but this small model is designed as a means of entertainment and is intended for throwing small objects, such as unpeeled hazelnuts or candy, to accurately hit a box, basket or other target. For safety and to ensure that your catapult is as enjoyable as possible, follow these tips.