If you plan to lay tiles on a surface with differences in height, then it is necessary to level the tiles. To do this, they use both specialized devices and carry out the process independently. We will consider further the methods of leveling tiles and the technology for their implementation.

Tile leveling system: device, advantages and disadvantages

By using a tile leveling system, it is possible to install the tiles much faster, while the surface is even and has no differences. This system according to the principle of operation, it replaces the crosses that were previously installed in the seams, and has the shape of wedges on which there are clamps. The main part of the system is wedges in the form of spacers, with the help of which it is possible to regulate the location of the tiles on the surface. To fix the position of these elements, the second version of wedges is used - clamping ones. Thus, it is possible to install and secure the tiles in a certain position. Thus, the surface, after laying the tiles, becomes perfectly flat.

When laying large tile parts, they should be covered with two layers of adhesive. This system has many advantages and is becoming quite popular among both beginners and professionals. In order to study the feasibility of using a tile leveling system, we suggest studying its advantages:

1. Getting a perfectly flat floor. With this advantage, it is possible to achieve a perfectly even floor covering with tiles. Appearance masonry is improved, and the quality of use of the floor covering also improves. The process of installing tiles is accelerated, and the work involved becomes easier.

2. There are joints of the same size on the floor surface, the tiles look perfect. At the same time, the use of crosses for seams becomes impractical. The distance between the tiles is the same on any part of the floor.

3. The glue is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor; to level the uneven floor surface, an adhesive composition is used, distributed over the surface. With the help of the solution, it is possible to fill all the voids that form on the floor. Without this system, ideal distribution of glue on the surface cannot be achieved.

4. Laying tiles in this way helps prevent tiles from sagging during use. Even heavy loads on the floor surface do not lead to its subsidence.

5. Fixing the tiles in the required position is another advantage of this system, which is difficult to achieve by laying the tiles manually. After the tiles laid in the usual way dry, displaced or sagging areas appear on the floor. By using a tile leveling clamp, you can get rid of this disadvantage. The tile is installed in the position we need and remains there until it dries completely.

Despite this, this system has certain disadvantages, namely:

• time costs for installing and removing clamps;
• the seams, in this case, are filled with glue and require additional cleaning;
• To purchase a system, you will need to spend additional money, which is not always profitable, especially if you need to install tiles in a room with a small area.

Varieties of systems for leveling tiles with your own hands

There are two types of systems for leveling tiles. The first one is cheaper and most often used. It is used if the surface has small differences in height. In this case, a wedge is used to clamp the base element, and the tile itself is installed on a flat base.

The cost of the second version of the tile leveling system is much higher. This system has a unique structure; the shape of the inserts is curved. Thus, it is possible to achieve self-leveling without additional manual intervention. Alignment of the plate occurs automatically, while laying tiles on floors with a large number of defects is allowed.

Tile alignment system video:

The use of this system is simple, although it requires additional time to install. However, the result is worth it. To install this system, you should perform the following steps:

• apply adhesive to the tiles using a notched trowel;
• install the tile and attach the leveling system to it;
• lay the second tile;
• use wedges to fix the inserts;
• install inserts on both sides of the tile;
• adjust the clamp until the inserts are tightly fixed;
• calculate the seams in relation to the visible adhesive.

Please note that the glue must be cleaned from the seams during the laying of the tiles. Otherwise, it will take a lot of time and effort to remove it.

Technology for using a tile laying and leveling system

We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions for laying tiles with your own hands using a leveling system:

1. Initially, the surface should be prepared; it should be cleaned of dust and dirt, and also degreased.

2. In order to increase the level of adhesion of the glue to the surface, the floor should be treated with a primer.

3. Glue must be prepared using the instructions. Because otherwise, problems may arise with its drying and strength.

4. Apply glue to the floor according to the thickness specified in the instructions. Before installing the tiles, place two clamps on the floor, one centimeter apart from the edge of the tile.

5. Install the second tile in the same way, between them a wedge-shaped element is installed, installed between the upper and lower parts of the clamps. Lock the wedge in the desired position.

6. Please note that the lower part of the wedge must be firmly fixed to the surface. It is with its help that alignment is carried out.

7. Install other wedges under each tile in the same way. The wedges are removed only after the glue has completely dried.

8. In order to get rid of wedges, a tool in the form of a hammer or chisel is used. Remove the clamps in the longitudinal direction relative to the seams. After removing the wedge, the lower elements remain under the tile.

9. Used clips are used only once and are discarded after removal. Wedges can be used many times. Please note that for successful leveling, optimal temperature and humidity conditions must be created in the room. Temperatures below 15 degrees and high humidity are not allowed.

Preparation and leveling for floor tiles

Before you start laying tiles, you should prepare the base for this process. First of all, the floor or walls on which the tiles are laid must be perfectly flat. Only in this case will it be possible to avoid swelling or deformation of this finishing material.

If the condition of the floor is critical, then it is necessary to remove the old floor covering and install a new screed. Preparing the floor for laying tiles requires the use of tools in the form of:

• spatula;
• floor measuring tools;
• putties;
• hammer;
• spatula;
• chisels;
• gloves

Before starting leveling, the room must be ventilated. Next, you should remove all the furniture and other items that are on the floor. To remove dirt, dust or grease stains from the floor, use a blowtorch. To remove cracks or other defects, use putty. Next, you should wait until the putty is completely dry.

Next, you should close all windows and doors in the room. The optimal temperature for further work is 20 degrees. Most often, the tiles are laid on a concrete base. However, it must be perfectly smooth. If there are differences in height of more than 3-4 cm, the floor should first be leveled.

Wooden base - very rarely used as a support for tiles. Wood is prone to high moisture and temperature changes. In addition, wood is not tough enough to be used as a base for tiles. Therefore, during the use of tiles on the floor, its deformation is possible.

Laying tiles on old wooden flooring is unacceptable. Before you begin laying the tiles, you should dismantle the old wooden covering. Next, you should install a new concrete screed.

To check the floor before leveling the floor tiles, you should use a special device - a level. There are two options:

• water device;
• laser type level.

Using a level allows you to determine the highest part of the floor or wall. This point is the main point for leveling the surface. The entire floor is aligned in relation to this point.

A laser level allows you to quickly determine the level of curvature of the floor. Using a water level requires the use of a pencil and ruler to mark the alignment.

The floor is prepared and leveled as follows:

• the highest point in the room is initially determined;
• Next, you should draw lines from it on the walls, based on them the alignment will be carried out.

1. Self-leveling compounds are the first and most popular method. These compositions are in the form of a dry powder, their base is cement. These compositions allow you to prepare the base for laying decorative flooring.

There are two variants of these compositions:

• the first ones are less fluid, allowing you to get rid of differences in height up to 4 cm;
• the latter should be applied in a thin layer; they are used to perform final leveling.

Each of the compositions requires thorough cleaning of the floor from dirt and applying a primer to their surface. To prepare the composition, you should study the instructions and combine the dry composition with water in the required proportion.

To improve the smoothness of the composition, you should not violate the proportion. Since these operations will negatively affect the quality of the resulting coating. The composition will thicken very quickly, so it is recommended to prepare it in portions.

The work is carried out in a completely enclosed area. A spatula is used to level the mixture. These compounds are easy to work with and quickly level the floor. However, their only drawback is their high cost. Therefore, in order to save money, another method of leveling the floor is used, which we will discuss later.

2. The second leveling method is to use a cement-based screed. This method is appropriate if the differences in height are more than five centimeters.

Usage this method relevant if the floor is quite uneven. In order to correct the curvature, it will take a lot of work. In addition, using cement mortar will save a lot of money.

After preparing the floor and applying markings, beacons should be installed. Most often, they have the shape of an ordinary flat wooden beam. The first beacon is installed at a distance of 2-3 cm from the wall. The second beacon is installed at a distance of 60-70 cm.

To check the evenness of installation of each of the beacons, use a level. If there are differences between the beacons, timber is supplied under them. After installing the beacons, you should prepare a cement mortar. To do this, you will need Portland cement and clean dry sand. The proportions for their connection are one to three. Leveling work should begin from the farthest corner in the room.

Please note that the presence of moisture in the sand will negatively affect its quality characteristics. Therefore, the sand for making the screed must be absolutely dry. Next, you should cover the floor with plastic film.

If you plan to level a floor made of wood, then to make a screed you will need to mix glue with sawdust. If the floor has become deformed over time, then this composition is the ideal solution. After this, you should wait for the self-leveling compounds to dry, this will take from 1 to 5 days. After the floor has dried, proceed to laying the tiles. To further level the floor, leveling tile crosses should be used.

Using the above methods, you can also level the walls in the bathroom under the tiles. However, a simpler and more reliable way is to use special floor leveling systems for tiles.

Video tile alignment:

Preparing the base:

The base must be strong and have no through cracks. The surface of the base is thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, lime, oil, grease, bitumen, residues of organic and mineral adhesives and paints, as well as water-soluble substances. When leveling polymer-gypsum screeds, the surface must be sanded until the filler grain appears to create an adhesive layer. Completely clean the base from dust using a vacuum cleaner. It is necessary to pre-insulate the leveling layer of the floor from the walls and partitions at a distance of 1.5-2 cm with thin strips of polystyrene foam or wooden slats in plastic film. To determine the required leveling level, it is necessary to set beacons. The surface to be leveled must be treated with a primer. The quality of the primed surface is determined by the absence of water absorption for 20-30 minutes.

Preparation of the mortar mixture:

To mix the dry mixture, use water from the drinking water supply. Mixing ratio: 1 kg of dry mixture requires 0.24-0.3 liters of water (4.8-6.0 liters per bag). Pour the dry mixture into a pre-measured amount of water. room temperature and mix for 3 minutes using an electric mixer or electric drill with a nozzle with a rotation speed of no more than 600 rpm until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The leveler can also be prepared by machine using mixing and injection devices with a continuously dosed supply of water.

Application:

It is recommended to start work from the wall furthest from the exit. The leveler mass is poured in parallel strips to the wall about 50 cm wide. The connection time between two portions should not exceed 10-15 minutes. For better distribution of the leveling mass over the surface, it is necessary to use a wide spatula or a needle roller. For manual thick-layer leveling, it is recommended to install beacon slats and work with the mortar mixture using a minimum amount of mixing water. The mortar mixture is placed between the lighthouse slats and leveled using the rule. Laying is done in stripes through one in a checkerboard pattern. The missing strips are laid only after the previously laid ones have set. Before this, the lighthouse slats are removed: the role of the lighthouse slats is performed by the surface of the laid mortar of adjacent strips. The work must be carried out without interruptions, maintaining the maximum pace. The functional suitability of the floor is not reduced if rare microcracks form without the leveler peeling off from the base. When used in bathrooms and toilets, the surface must be treated with waterproofing mastic.

Today you don’t have to be a professional mason to lay tiles on walls and floors with high quality. In this article we will talk about tiling techniques using tile leveling systems, describe the process and help you choose the right consumables.

What is a tile leveling system

Strictly speaking, all modern tile laying is carried out using leveling systems, the simplest example of which are crosses and wedges. More modern devices make it possible not only to maintain identical seams between the tiles, but also to level the tiles in a single plane by deforming the adhesive seam and changing its thickness to 2-3 mm.

Instead of crosses, a plastic retainer with a wide bottom shelf is inserted into the seam of the tile. When both tiles are laid at the edges of the joint, the clamp is pressed by the counter element, thus, the inner and outer surfaces of the tiles are brought exactly to the same level.

The leveling system allows you to leave a perfectly even seam with a minimum thickness of 1.5 mm. Naturally, poor quality tiles with varying linear dimensions will look equally bad regardless of the laying technology. At the same time, the leveling system allows you to fully unlock the potential of expensive tiles.

The drying of the adhesive mixture is completely unpredictable; with the use of SVP, this factor can be eliminated. And if you consider that with SVP, laying is done at least twice as fast, the absolute advantage of this method is quite obvious.

Types of leveling systems

Despite the simple design and principle of operation, the designs of different leveling systems can differ significantly. SVPs are usually divided into those that require special tools for installation, and those that do not. The first ones are suitable for use by home craftsmen: the quality is quite high, and no additional financial investments are required. Professional tilers prefer to use special tools to compress the fasteners as tightly as possible, which not only makes alignment more convenient and quick, but also facilitates easy removal of the system after use.

The most widespread are systems with a tensioner in the form of a wedge with a jagged bevel. The obvious advantages of this design are the high support area of ​​the clamping element: you can even control the quality of alignment visually. The wedges can be reused almost an unlimited number of times; you just need to purchase the required number of pads. Compression is performed both with the help of a tool (Mustang) and without it (SVP, CHSG).

Another type of system uses serrated strip post latches (Rubi, DTA) with a bar or cap with a one-way wedge lock as the mating part. The systems are distinguished by the largest range of thickness of the laid tiles - from 3 to 20-30 mm. Locks can be reused up to 20-25 times, but a special tool is required to tighten them.

Inexpensive leveling systems (Tuscan, SeamClip), in which the clamp and the platform are combined in one element, are optimal for non-professional tilers. Tightening is done by snapping the shelves of the top clip, reuse is not possible. The main disadvantage of such systems is that they need to be selected to match the thickness of the tiles being laid; the deviation is allowed to be very small - up to 0.5 mm.

Another type of leveling system is characterized by the presence of a screw tensioner. In one case, the design looks like a platform with a T-shaped post, which is tightened by hand with a nut with a shallow serrated thread (Tornado). Other leveling systems are tightened with a metal pin using a screwdriver (NTCA).

None of the systems has obvious advantages in installation quality, so you should choose based on ease of use and economic feasibility within a particular project.

Cost of various systems

Products from domestic and Chinese manufacturers are widely represented on the Russian market. The most popular brand is SVP, which also has the most affordable price: up to 4 rubles per wedge and up to 3 rubles per clamp.

The Rubi brand, familiar to many finishers, offers caps for 12 rubles and stands for 14 rubles; a set of 100 sets of clamps and special pliers will cost 4,800 rubles. Unlike cheaper analogues, consumables from Rubi have the smallest number of defective elements, and the racks practically do not break when tightened.

You can order original Tile Systems kits made in the EU or USA online. Their cost is 2-3 times higher than the popular ones, so this option is most interesting for tilers working with luxury and premium class tiles. The other extreme is ordering kits on popular foreign Internet sites. You can find hovercraft there at a price of 3-4 rubles per set, which is interesting for large volumes of work.

Technique for laying tiles on the floor

The floor under the tiles should not have differences in height of more than 2 mm per meter and more than 4.5 mm in the level of the room; if necessary, a leveling screed must be made. Remove dust and debris from the floor and treat it with a primer until absorption stops, when the floor practically stops changing color when the primer is applied.

Beat off the base line - a compromise perpendicular between the two walls, stepping back from the edge by the width of the tile. Lay the first two tiles level, securing them with clamps. Lay out the first row, fastening it along one side and aligning the tiles with the markings. On the last 2-3 rows, change the laying direction to avoid an uneven slope of the tiles adjacent to the wall.

Don’t forget to place two pads under each open end, and if the side of the tile exceeds 80 cm, use three leveling points. Place the outermost clamps at a distance of 40-50 mm from the corners. If you need to increase the minimum seam, use spacer crosses.

Wall cladding using SVP

Start laying tiles on the walls from the second row, knocking out a base level and screwing a limit strip along it to the wall. If you are using tiles with a side of less than 200 mm, you can fasten 4 tiles together before laying without fully tightening the fasteners. After installing the prefabricated element on the wall, press the tile seams by tapping the open end with a rubber mallet, then tighten the fasteners completely.

Do not apply too much adhesive under the tiles so that it does not squeeze out of the seams. It will not be possible to wash off the remaining glue immediately, this is the main disadvantage of the SVP, but it is necessary to clean the seams with a rod.

The tile leveling system can be removed 24 hours after installation. This is done very simply: use a rubber hammer to hit the fastener in the direction of the seam. This will lift the retainer post off the pad and release the spacer. If the post breaks elsewhere, pry it out with pliers.

What is the simplest method of dealing with uneven surfaces, how to learn how to lay tiles or tiles correctly and evenly, what leveling systems have been tested in practice - all this is discussed in the material below.

SVP is, perhaps, in the best possible way precise laying of tiles, this is an innovative laying scheme for both walls and floors. This technique allows you not to use the help of professional tilers, but to carry out the procedure yourself. It is no secret that these services are very expensive, so you have to look for an alternative. If you listen to reviews, then there are still other methods of leveling, for example, a dry Knauf or Leroy floor, which can even out almost all differences.

The so-called dry screed gives a self-leveling effect and can be applied to various coatings:

• Laminate;
• Carpet;
• Parquet;
• Tiles, etc.

But this option cannot be called budget at all, and this is a minus. SVP is better than professional work, the end result will definitely please you; without much experience, it is possible to get a decent result.

The SVP system contains 2 elements – a clamp and a wedge.

Unlike a wedge, which can be used many times, a material such as a clamp is disposable and does not require reuse. According to their pricing policy, the materials are very affordable and not burdensome.

How to use wedges to lay tiles

In addition to being reusable, this device also has a multitasking function. Their cost is not expensive, but the functionality is surprising. With the help of wedges, we achieve the most parallel rows of tiles, which means you will get smooth and neat seams. The leveler is used in the most unusual places for installation. They can also help in laying out the bottom “cut” row of tiles.

The device allows you to select the required thickness and obtain an even seam on the upper part of the product.

Wedges are universal assistants when facing walls with artificial stone. In cases where there is a significant difference in the size of the tiles, wedges are inserted into the joints to obtain an even line. There are many moments when plastic products help out in terms of design and functionality, and here they have found their niche in the SPV system. But, like any system, it has both its positive and negative sides. They should be considered in more detail.

Advantages:

• Setting the optimal level in the plane, which guarantees the duration of operation of the coating and the speed of the process;
• Obtaining identical tile joints by accurately calculating the distance between tiles;
• Distribution of glue, with which you can eliminate imperfections in the surface level by applying the right amount of substance;
• No subsidence of tiles;
• Elimination of position deformation using clamps.

The disadvantages of the system are that it is difficult to clean the seams and the removal and installation of fasteners takes time. An obvious fact in favor of the effectiveness of the technology is a significant number of positive arguments and quick installation of tiles.

DIY tile leveling system in practice

By following certain instructions, you can achieve good results when laying tiles or floors. No specific skills are required, but you should still follow a number of practical rules and follow safety precautions.

Let's look at the system step by step in action:

1. The first step is to prepare the glue according to the instructions. You should not deviate from the proposed recommendation; do it strictly according to proportions.
2. The glue is applied to the surface of the walls or floor in the required volume and thickness.
3. Initially, you need to place a clamp (clamps, clothespins, wedges or a homemade structure) in the amount of 2 pieces under the first pasted tile on both sides, in this case retreating from the edge approximately 0.5-1 cm.
4. In the same way, place another tile and insert a wedge so that it is located between the top and bottom of the clamp. Secure the wedge.
5. The leveling function itself is carried out by tightly fitting the part of the wedge from below to the tiles.
6. In the same way, you need to “scatter” the wedges along the joints at the location of the clamps.
7. After the adhesive solution has completely dried, you need to remove the wedges. To do this, use a hammer and hit the side of the clamps. In this case, the clamp element at the bottom will remain.

Such a system is not new and will work well if the optimal temperature regime from +10 ᵒС. Essentially, the fastening elements, as if binding the surface, intertwine the tiles with each other. Thus, a plane without unevenness emerges, becoming an ideal surface. Obviously, the use of this system for DIY installation serves to facilitate the task of achieving a quality level.

Algorithm of actions in the tile laying system

There is a special DSL (DSL) system for laying tiles, which facilitates the process of creating floor coverings and simplifies installation. The technique is an excellent tool that prevents possible splitting of the tiles or the formation of unevenness and other various defects in the coating.

DSL is presented as a set of important tools:

• Caps;
• Meters;
• Tapes;
• Wedges;
• Clips;
• Clamps and more.

In addition, you can make your own device such as a clamp. It is done very simply. To do this, you need aluminum wire; you should make a rectangle out of it. At the bend points, the material is slightly trimmed so that it can be easily bent to size. You need to bite at the base for easy removal later, after the glue has dried.

The base is supported by a small strip of any material, such as metal. The wire is twisted along the top, forming a rectangle shape. A tile wedge can also serve as a clamp, complemented by a wooden spacer that prevents the clamp from moving and securely fixes it.

The set is very light and easy to use, and is economical financially.

Helps get the job done as quickly and efficiently as possible. A special feature of this technique is that it is practical to use with any tile material; moreover, it allows you to clamp the corner of 4 tiles at the same time. It is worth agreeing that the system is very versatile and very convenient.

Ways to quickly lay tiles

Such an activity will still require attentiveness and accuracy of actions.

Conventionally, the process is divided into 2 stages - preparation and installation itself. Preparation for work begins with removing the old coating, leveling it and then ends with the priming stage. Then you can proceed directly to installation.

You also need to purchase certain tools, such as:

• Putty knife;
• Glue;
• Special marker and others necessary for work.

There are several options for laying tiles: seam-to-seam, diagonal, bandaging. You can achieve a good result only by leveling the surface well, otherwise you won’t be able to achieve a smooth wall; the tiles will “dance” on it. In the second step, the initial point is to place the plank on the wall using fasteners. This will help lay out the first row of tiles.

Before gluing the first tile, a calculation is made and a corner is fixed, which subsequently leads to laying. Then the angle from which the cladding will begin is determined. Using already diluted glue, an area is applied exactly the size required for 1 m2. The tile should be pressed evenly over the entire surface, and any excess glue released should be removed. At the second corner, the tile may need to be trimmed. After the glue has completely dried, all unnecessary elements are removed and the seams are rubbed down.

SVP: tile leveling system (video)

Summing up, we can recall the versatility of manual SVP technology, which, moreover, is not inferior in its functionality and simplicity, and most importantly, pleasantly surprising in its price category. This is a wonderful analogue to factory production.